Hi.

I'm in the process of building and converting Dragon's M1A2 Sep kit to an Aussie M1A1 using the excellent Arms Corps Models conversion kit.

The Dragon instructions give optional parts T5 or T6 for the rear right air intakes (at least I think they're air intakes). Which one of these for the aussie M1? My reference photos don't show this area clearly for the aussie vehicle.

Also, the instructions give optional parts U34 or U33 for the front left fuel cap (again, I think they're fuel caps). Which one for the aussie M1?

Your assistance greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Shane

Hi Shane,
I recently finished the Oz M1A1 but I can't remeber which parts I used. I have taken some photo that I hope will help.
http://gallery.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/358037/ppuser/34310
Cheers
David

G'day Shane,
As per my instructions, go with T6 and as for the cap, either one is OK.

Cheers Jason

Thanks guys.

David, did you use the mouse house OzCam paints?

Jason, page 2. Got it.

Cheers
Shane

Do your references give you a good overview of the cammo? If not, I posted some photos of it on here last year that may be helpful.

Hi Robert. I've seen your photos but I have others taken in December last year which are different to yours. Rechymeck posted them here. They're a close match to Jason's diagram available here .
BTW, I just found some other photos of 207058 (Robert's photos) at the Avalon airshow. Looks like its been repainted to the new pattern. They're here. Taken on March 5 this year by the looks of it.

Cheers
Shane

Yep, the pattern changed not long after I did the drawing. Mine was based on the original painting guide and the first two tanks painted.
I do hope at some stage to go back and redo the drawing, but other things have since taken over. One thing to note with the three-tone on the M1 is that it is rough in places. I have a couple of pictures that show the engine deck handles sprayed over but not under them. So when the crew or the vibration of the tank moves the handles there is no camo under them. Leaving a nice grey etching primer underneath. Nice!
The tanks are prepared and resprayed in this order, CARC Sand first, then a Grey Etching primer, light three-tone, then the final camo over the whole lot.

Cheers Jason

Thanks Jason. Kinda interesting about the grey primer. They must use a few cans of Tamiya gray surface primer then

On a trivia note (and hopefully not stating the obvious), I have a photo which seems to show the three colour is applied in a variety of orders. Other photos of 207058 show the paint has gone on in the order Tan, Green, Black but in another section of the vehicle green has been sprayed over black, and another tan over green. I stopped looking after that. Useful for getting a variety of effects for paint chipping.

Cheers
Shane

Hi Shane,

I used the green but I have always felt that the tan is a little to brown when I campared it to real vehicles, I mix 50/50 Model Master 1742 Dark Tan and 1735 Wood. This mix looks light when sprayed on but it darken up on drying, and weathering.

David

I believe mouse house have the AUSCAM colors already mixed for sale you might want to look into it and on another note the first batch that were repainted at a smash repairers in Darwin in the 3 tone were painted straight over the top of everything for example the handles which are black on the loaders m240 were painted straight over them the word that went around was that the paint job was rough with a lot of overspray on and around the the tank.
hope that helps cheers cuny12.

Hey guys.

I have used the MH Ozcam paint set. I have done a 3 tone cam pattern on 3 ASLAVS and only used about 2/3rds of the brown. I have not weathered these vehicles yet (have last minute mods to do). Please allow me to elaborate on my experiences.

Some observations and opinions now based on experience:

This paint is "rich". I feel it could almost be called a "pigment paint". No such things exists of course, but it's the only way to describe how this stuff can be thinned alot and still have bite! This is a good thing.

When spraying through the airbrush, (maybe because it wasnt thinned enough), I found I had to clean the airbrush more often. about 3 cleans of the nozzle for every 2 normal cleans measured by volume. not really a good thing.

Quick drying. One side of the vehicle was almost touch dry when I finished spraying the second side. A good thing I guess.

Colours did not get lightened with white as suggested by manufacturer (to account for scale). I am extraordinarily happy with the colours not being mixed and looking good. Also a good thing.

I had no general purpose thinners - To be honest I can't find anything labelled "general purpose thinners", but mineral turpentine does not work well. Its almost like mixing oil and water - when adding the two, the pigments of the paint clump and go like tiny specs rather than dissolve. If you mix real hard it will - to borrow the wrong term - emulsify. it will dissolve but I get the feeling its just the paint in suspension and not actually "thinned". I used some floquil "airbush cleaner and thinners" and felt that wasnt bad. but i really suggest that before using you have a good source of general purpose thinners as mineral turpentine is a fail. This is a bad thing that may have a good upside..

The last observation was the paint gets 'sticky" I left the lid off a few times between refills and when I went to refit the lid i noticed that rather than drying, the paint was "stringy" around the tin lid. hard to explain and I guess its meaningless. I point this out because it reminds us that this is not ordinary enamel paint. It is not Humbrol with 3 new colours. This paint has some defining characteristics- mostly good, some not so.

It definitely requires a little bit of testing and practice to get the best out of it. but the rewards for such patience I think can be worth it - especially the colour match.

I hope this adds to your thread. We need a legacy Abrams thread..

Adamskii

PS the possible upside to the paint not mixing with mineral turps is an oil wash that is mineral turps based shouldnt attack the surface and cause the ususal headaches of crazing. I have not tested this theory, but am very hopefull!

Adamskii,

thanks for the info I have at present three ASLAVs in the stash and I will give the mouse house paints a try although I still feel that the tan is to dark. The general purpose thinners are usually associated with automotive paint and I have checked super cheap auto and they sell the stuff 3m General Purpose Thinner http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/3M-General-Purpose-Thinner.aspx?pid=220427#Description or you could try a friendly panel beater.

David

I have used the 3M general purpose thinners and it is very good quality also remember that all most all of the LAVs Bushmasters and all other vehicles have varying shades of colors by this i I mean some are faded quite badly from the elements and some are very dark in the olive and tan
hope that is of some help
cheers cuny12.

Hey there, the link to the 3m thinners, on the bottle it says for acrylic/laquer paint. MH ozcam is a type of enamel. Cuny did you use it with the MH Ozcam paint set or just with other brands?

Adamskii

I have used the 3M thinners with just about all paints except the mouse house paint, especialy Tamiya acrylic It gives a silky smooth finish as with other brands as well I cant see why it would be a problem but a good test is always the best way.
Later this year when I do some work with the M1s ill make a 3 tone version ill wait so I can get my own reference photos

My apoligies I have used it with enamel paint and had not one drama it is General purpose the guy at supercheap told me it wasnt for enamel but I asked another guy who uses it by the litre for painting cars and he said it was fine which did turn out to be true Ive used products from bunnings and found that the product they sell to be unsuitable for enamel hobby paints where as the 3M general purpose is excellent.
cheers cuny12.

planning on starting my Dragon Abrams AIM soon, so was looking for hints here, but had to laugh when looking at the pics here from the airshow; I'm in them! In pic5 you can see me and my son. small world.