As my Leopold build is coming to an end, I am planning my next model which will be Hasegawa's sdkfz 234/1 in 1/72 scale.

I will also be using the excellent CMK Tatra 103 engine set, a PE set from PART and a barrel replacement from Schatton Modelbau in a build that sometime in the future will finalize as a field garage diorama.



I hope it will be a fun model to make.

More soon P.A.

I like the upgrade parts, going to enjoy watching this one

This looks interesting and I'll be sure to follow this build. Wish the upgrade stuff wasn't so rare and expensive in my area.

Regards,
AJ

Alex great to see another awesome project from you! What are you going to use for the garage? Airfix do an awesome resin one

Hi guys thanks for taking the time to comment.

@ James: I have the workshop sets from Goffy models which are excellent.
http://www.smallscalemodelling.dk/Storage/a/a/a/a/a/e/c/r/500_381.jpg
http://www.smallscalemodelling.dk/Storage/a/a/a/a/a/e/c/v/500_381.jpg
http://www.smallscalemodelling.dk/Storage/a/a/a/a/a/e/c/z/500_353.jpg

Also some laser cut tools and a big spares box .

I think I'll set it up inside a hut made from corugated sheet or bricks or something like that.

I have completed the interior. I don't expect mUch to be visible inside the crew compartment so building and weathering was kept in basic level.

The Tatra engine from CMK gave me quite some trouble to fit it in the chassis. Also the instruction sheet that CMK provides is vaguE and some research is needed to build the engine. The engine was further detailed.



More soon, P.A.

Hi Alexander

whoa ! you're off to a flying start on this one.

The engine looks just great with the leads. Its too bad it won't be seen ! If you ever buy the Attack Tatra T-111 truck they come with the same (or a very similar) engine. I built two of these trucks and left one engine out as a spare.

cheers
Neil

Everything looks great, but that engine is just stunning!

Your interior looks super, Alexander. I always love blogs like this to gt me motivated. Thanks for sharing.

Regards,
AJ

Thanks everybody !

I am currently working on the upper hull. It's a slow ride but I am getting there.



Regarding the PE from PART, it's insanely extensive.

The PE grilles used all my patience to build. I decided to leave the middle grilles open so that bigger part of the engine is visible. I will add the engine doors too. Rear engine bay door will also be open.

More soon, P.A.

Awesome work Alex. One thing I strongly believe is those fenders are too thick and a weak point of the kit. BTW where did you get the CMK workshop stuff from? I can't find them anywhere?

Jaymes

Hi James.

The workshop is from Goffy models nit CMK. Unfortunately it seems that their site is down at the moment and I read in Armorama that perhaps they have suspended their business.More here.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/news/8121

Anyway, there are many sellers that distribute their products and probably you can find someone who has stock on the items you want.

P.A.

@PanzerAlexander – Alexander,

You’ve got quit an interesting build going here. I really like what I see. I noticed that on your builds you are using shrinkable filler putty to eliminate unwanted injection pin marks and holes used for part placement. If, I may make a small suggestion here? I normally use an X-acto blade or the blunt end of a sewing needle and dip them in just enough super glue to cover small holes and injection pin marks. I then use a micro brush to apply a tiny amount of accelerator to the super glue. The super glue will harden within a minute or less and you can immediately sand the super glue down. Just don’t allow the super glue to harden more than an hour or it will become harder than the plastic making sanding a chore. Before I begin sanding the super glue I remove as much of the glue as I can with a sharp scalpel leaving just enough not to cut into the plastic thus speeding up the sanding time. The advantage of the super glue over the putty is that it won’t shrink and becomes part of the plastic once set. Just check your work against a light before you go on to the next area.

I use Squadron’s green or white putty diluted with Testor’s liquid cement and apply the mixture with a paint brush to the areas such as between the fenders and body of your kit and remove any excess with the same paint brush dampened with the liquid cement. Allow the putty to dry and check to see if you’ll need to reapply again. Give these methods a try on some scrap plastic before attempting it on your kit and I’m sure you’ll use these methods to get rid of those unwanted holes, pin marks and open seams.

-Eddy

Hi Eddy,

Indeed I have not yet found a standard way to deal with ejector marks. Thanks for the tips I'll give it a try.

P.A.

really detailed work for such a small scale,outstanding.

Ohh Awesome! Black Dog have brought the tools from Goffy so fingers crossed they will re appear

Already looking like a gem!
The detailing on the engine looks fantastic

Thanks everyone for the pos comments.




It's sad to hear that someone is out of business especially in the small cottage industry. At least their molds will pass to someone else.
(Although I find Black Dog products quite pricey )

Excellent painting and detailing. I saw the first post but not your work with the interior part.

Congratulations. I will wait the next progress.

Regards.. Pedro.

Hi alexander

Very nice your build.
The PE´s looks good too.

Greetings Daniel

I have been quite busy lately and just tonight I found the time to paint the camo scheme.



It was painted using Valejjo model air with a paintbrush.
After that I sprayed some thinned base color to sweeten the contrast.



More later, P.A.

Alexander,

What a terrific job you are doing. Yes, I agree that the Part photo-etch set may have been quit an expense but now that it has been covered with paint the detail enhanced by the photo-etch parts makes this build look like a much larger scale kit, not to mention your hand painting skills. Well worth the added expensive.

-Eddy

Hi Alexander,

Thats a very nice hard edged camouflage you have applied, as is seen on some old photos of these vehicles. It looks very professional.

I like the colours you chose for the camo too.

cheers
Neil

Eddy, Neil thanks for taking the time to comment.

I found some time to work on the turret. I was surprised how well the pieces matched.



The barrel is from Schatton Modelbau, the mg42 is from a Dragon set, the 20mm magazine from the spare box.

On to the model.



More soon, P.A.

After a good day of modeling I made progress on hull and turret weathering.


After some washes, chipping and oil filter.






Next is weathering the underhull with pigments, attaching the wheels and applying filter dots.

Thanks for watching.

More soon, P.A.

Hi Alexander

This is shaping up into one beautiful looking model. The turret just looks great. The chipping looks real, and the engine is a nice piece of work.

Thanks for taking time to post the pictures, its great 'eye candy'

cheers
Neil