I tried applying a wash of 502 oils with 502 orderless turpentine and the results are less than satisfactory. go on well but when they dry the color is not nice, even, and smooth but rather spotty and pixilated, like the pigments in the paint are separated. Im applying the wash on a gloss surface and even a semi-gloss surface with similar results.

Any idea why this is happening? anyone else have this problem? Ive never read of anyone else having a similar issue.

Jon,
I tried using the prescribed 502 distilled thinner and found it to be a little harsh or 'hot' for most of my modeling applications. I too had somewhat mixed results. To reduce washes I recommend using blue-label Turpenoid to thin any oils. Available at most art supply outlets, Turpenoid is considerably cheaper and milder in intensity, allowing me to slosh away to my heart's content! Also, as I never, ever gloss my armor models I really can't comment on whether the finish has anything to do with your problem. When I apply a wash I intend on it actually altering and shifting the base color, therefore I always leave my tank models dull to begin with.

Mike

Mike- would you mind posting a picture of your said turpenoid?
I think it might have something to do with the gloss. it might be spreading the thinner out too much. hmmm..... thanks for the reply. I posted this on another forum but didnt get any hits.

Jon, have you tried using Loew Cornell's "Orderless Brush Cleaner And Thinner"? This stuff is amazing, been using it for years on all my oil washes, usually available through Michaels Craft stores. here's a link to the product:

http://www.loew-cornell.com/product-page-pages-43.php?cid=110&pid=432

(not sure if the link will work, you may have to copy and paste into your address bar.)

Mike, I'm like you, I don't gloss my models (except for the areas where decals would go to avoid silvering), and I basically end up 'staining' my paint scheme for colour variation, works for me!

Can you tell us what ratio ( roughly ) you used for your wash?
Also, have you tried over a SATIN finnish?

Hi guys,

Jon, it's nice to talk to you again. I'm sorry that you have been having trouble with your paints. As the local MIG Productions guy maybe I can try to lend a hand? I am assuming that you are using acrylics for you base colors.

I guess my first question is how you are applying the paints/turps. Are you dissolving the paint in the turps and then washing the surfaces, or are you applying the paint directly to the surface and then applying the turps?

Both methods work, but different results will be achieve depending upon which you are using. As mentioned, 502 Abteilung colors are fine pigmented paints which can be intense in their coverage. The "hot spots" can develop when the paint is applied directly to an UN-moistened surface - the pigments in the paint actually staining the surface colors. This is fine if this is the result you are looking for.

In my own modeling I am always mindful to Pre-moisten, or dampen my surface before applying the paints. This helps prevent the "hot spots" from occurring

Secondly, and opinions differ on this, but I always seal my base colors with a light misting of Future. Some don't care for this added layer, but I find that the light gloss/sealant helps prevent the "staining" of my base colors. Rather, the oils become a topical, or Filter layer of paint effect. Also, the protective makes it easier to remove paint if I feel that I've gone too far in my applications.

Maybe this is a start? I will be more than happy to continue this conversation here - or feel free to contact me directly at:

[email protected]

Best,
Rick

Rick, I was having problems with washes as well until I found out about pre-moistening the surfaces which really helped, and sealing with future made it even easier to control. BTW, I learned both tricks from other members on this site

To all,
I suppose it's simply a matter of personal preference of whether to pre-moisten, or not; to add Future, or not. I never do either and I think I'm able to achieve the results I am looking for pretty well. I avoid shooting clear glosses and flats on models whenever possible. I personally like the effect carefully "staining" my models produces and an overall wash of dark brown (502 Wash Brown), is ALWAYS my first step. This very light wash, applied to a non-treated surface, adds tremendous depth and creates continuity between different camouflage colours. At that point, other colours come into play and I use a full battery of siennas, umbers, and ochres - each applied as washes of various viscosities and again, part of the weathering process - to create subtle colour shifts in the base finish. Then, I profile details such as bolt heads, panel lines, welds, etc, using 502 Shadow Brown on light colour schemes, and a mix of 502 Basic Earth and Light Mud around prominent surface protrusions (to replicate collected dust and dirt) on darker schemes. Then, I often repeat the whole process until I get the results I am looking for. These techniques, and more, will be demonstrated at a seminar I will be conducting June at Eagle Quest in Texas.
Sorry for the rambling post, but the point is, in modeling we all can arrive at the same destination - all from taking different roads. Some say you have to apply washes over gloss or semi-gloss finishes, while others disagree with that. See what works best for you, but always be willing to alter and adapt. That's what makes each model you build a personal challenge.
Oh, and whether it's Turpenoid or any other artist's-grade distilled thinner like Loews-Cornell or Winsor-Newton, it should work just fine.

Kirchoff

Dont wash onto gloss

Pre-wash with pure thinner to wet the model.

Just my opinion.

Thank you all for your time and comments. Rick and Ian- It was great meeting you both at AMPS as well!

Okay, im going to try to answer as many of the questions in this post. I apologize if i left any unanswered.

First off- my mixes are roughly a little less than a half-a-pea-sized glob of oil to a well full of thinner. I use one of those brass, round, circular palettes to mix the washes.

I tested it on both gloss (future) and Satin (Vallejo, and the wash kind of bled all over the surface instead of clinging to the recesses)

Rick- i would like to mention that i have very good results using the Mig Brown and Dark pre-mixed washes for pin washes that dry pretty well. I do get a few areas of "speckling" but nothing major.

My main issue is with thinning 502 oils with thinners for washes.

Thanks to all and have a great night