I am not very satisfied with Tamiya liquid surface primer (or maybe I do smth wrong?) so I am looking into more specific products like Tamiya metal primer and Mr. Metal primer.
What are you experiences? What's best. Looking forward to comments.
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Primer for PE and metal, what is best?
Bizarre
Akershus, Norway
Joined: July 20, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 12:36 AM UTC
04090
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: September 13, 2006
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Joined: September 13, 2006
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Armorama: 168 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 09:29 AM UTC
04090
Hi Bizarre Vallejo do a gray primer and it is good for Photo Etch
and it shrinks to the contours of your kit
hope this helps.
yours cyril
Hi Bizarre Vallejo do a gray primer and it is good for Photo Etch
and it shrinks to the contours of your kit
hope this helps.
yours cyril
Paul-H
United Kingdom
Joined: April 02, 2010
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Joined: April 02, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 09:52 AM UTC
Hi
Most problems with primers not sticking properly can be traced back to in-proper or no cleaning prior to painting, PE often has a protective coating that needs to be cleaned off before painting.
If you have cleaned it and still getting problems then using an acid etch primer will solve your problems.
Hope this was of help
Paul
Most problems with primers not sticking properly can be traced back to in-proper or no cleaning prior to painting, PE often has a protective coating that needs to be cleaned off before painting.
If you have cleaned it and still getting problems then using an acid etch primer will solve your problems.
Hope this was of help
Paul
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 01:03 PM UTC
Make sure your model is washed with Windex and rinsed in water before priming. Vallejo primers are the best I have used and cover plastic, PE, and resin equally excellent for a consistent finish and preservation of detail.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 01:49 PM UTC
Roman:
2 cents from a different "primer?" camp:
Actually, any of the better modeling enamels will work well as a "primer" on a clean kit and on clean brass (lead foil, aluminum, etc.). The key is being clean, as folks have previously mentioned. Using the "windex" Matt mentioned above works well for me, too.
I "prime" most of my builds with Floquil RailRoad Colors enamels - made specially for small-scale metal things (model RR stuff) - these paints have ultra-fine pigments and adhere super-well to everything (at least cleaner everythings!). Alternatively, I have had great success "priming" (applying as my first or base coat) using Testors ModelMaster enamels.
To me, primers usefully double as "pre-shading" when I use some color-contrast to my base coat. So I LOVE Floquil's Engine Black!
Just my maybe contrarian opinion, gents!
Bob
2 cents from a different "primer?" camp:
Actually, any of the better modeling enamels will work well as a "primer" on a clean kit and on clean brass (lead foil, aluminum, etc.). The key is being clean, as folks have previously mentioned. Using the "windex" Matt mentioned above works well for me, too.
I "prime" most of my builds with Floquil RailRoad Colors enamels - made specially for small-scale metal things (model RR stuff) - these paints have ultra-fine pigments and adhere super-well to everything (at least cleaner everythings!). Alternatively, I have had great success "priming" (applying as my first or base coat) using Testors ModelMaster enamels.
To me, primers usefully double as "pre-shading" when I use some color-contrast to my base coat. So I LOVE Floquil's Engine Black!
Just my maybe contrarian opinion, gents!
Bob
Bizarre
Akershus, Norway
Joined: July 20, 2010
KitMaker: 1,709 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Joined: July 20, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 - 07:44 PM UTC
thanks to everyone for answering!
which one is that?
Quoted Text
Gunze mr. metal primer is ok, not as durable as blacken-it but pretty decent. I get the bottles with a brush, dilute it with Gunze lacquer thinner and spray it with an airbrush. Does not take a thick coat, and I spray the entire model with it so it acts as a prime for everything.
which one is that?
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Friday, May 06, 2011 - 10:52 AM UTC
I find ColorPlace grey primer works fine on pe. I've just recently covered a model with aluminum gun barrel and full brass pe set and it has turned out great.
Bizarre
Akershus, Norway
Joined: July 20, 2010
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Joined: July 20, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, May 10, 2011 - 09:12 PM UTC
Thanks for you replies, all. I ordered Mr. Metal primer and Gunze laquer thinner. Will have the possibility to test that next week!
lukiftian
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: March 12, 2010
KitMaker: 791 posts
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Joined: March 12, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 10:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Roman:
2 cents from a different "primer?" camp:
Actually, any of the better modeling enamels will work well as a "primer" on a clean kit and on clean brass (lead foil, aluminum, etc.). The key is being clean, as folks have previously mentioned. Using the "windex" Matt mentioned above works well for me, too.
I "prime" most of my builds with Floquil RailRoad Colors enamels - made specially for small-scale metal things (model RR stuff) - these paints have ultra-fine pigments and adhere super-well to everything (at least cleaner everythings!). Alternatively, I have had great success "priming" (applying as my first or base coat) using Testors ModelMaster enamels.
To me, primers usefully double as "pre-shading" when I use some color-contrast to my base coat. So I LOVE Floquil's Engine Black!
Just my maybe contrarian opinion, gents!
Bob
I'm with Bob on this. I believe primers are overused by modelers, and one that can double as a painted surface is welcome.