Hey
I'd like to print a few custom decals for a couple of my builds, so I was wondering if anybody who's done this has any tips for me?
I have an inkjet printer so obviously I'll get the paper designed for inkjets, but is there a specific brand i should buy?
Also what printer settings should I use?
Thanks for any help
Anirudh
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Printing Custom Decals
Anirudharun
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2011 - 10:53 AM UTC
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2011 - 11:25 AM UTC
Hello there Anirudh
I did some custom decals a while back.. on an inkjet printer
I used the The Testors Custom Decal System
it didn't cost much, came with a sheet of clear and a sheet of white decal paper.. and a can of "fixative" I think my pack was called a 'try it pack" or some such..
Just so you know unless you have a printer that can print in white (Alps printer's) then if you wan't white in your decal you have to use the white decal paper.. which means you have to trim your decal right to the very edge.
I printed mine out with the printer in best, or photo quaility which gives you the best print.. I did the following decals on the clear sheet
The directions say to use a couple of coats of fixative to set the decals to the paper so the ink doesn't run when you wet them to apply to the model...
I found that the fixative alone isn't enough because my ink still ran and smudged up so I had to reprint.
so after I applied a couple of coats of the fixative and had let them dry, I applied a couple of coats of gloss coat on them allowing plenty of drying time between and that worked well but I still had to be careful not to allow the decals to stay in the water too long..
one thought I had is next time after the gloss coats i might also try a coat of future..
anyways I recommend printing out some test decals to practice how to apply them and to use as a test bed to insure you have enough clear coats on to keep your ink from smudging or running...
My decals were not all that fancy but they worked well on the model..
they were applied to a gloss paint and sealed with a gloss coat.
if you look closely at the rear decal around the o in the .com you can see some of the smudging that happens if you leave the decal in the water too long.. the one spot I didn't see until I had pretty much finished the build...
anyways those are the tips I have..
more pics of the above at my website here
Delbert
I did some custom decals a while back.. on an inkjet printer
I used the The Testors Custom Decal System
it didn't cost much, came with a sheet of clear and a sheet of white decal paper.. and a can of "fixative" I think my pack was called a 'try it pack" or some such..
Just so you know unless you have a printer that can print in white (Alps printer's) then if you wan't white in your decal you have to use the white decal paper.. which means you have to trim your decal right to the very edge.
I printed mine out with the printer in best, or photo quaility which gives you the best print.. I did the following decals on the clear sheet
The directions say to use a couple of coats of fixative to set the decals to the paper so the ink doesn't run when you wet them to apply to the model...
I found that the fixative alone isn't enough because my ink still ran and smudged up so I had to reprint.
so after I applied a couple of coats of the fixative and had let them dry, I applied a couple of coats of gloss coat on them allowing plenty of drying time between and that worked well but I still had to be careful not to allow the decals to stay in the water too long..
one thought I had is next time after the gloss coats i might also try a coat of future..
anyways I recommend printing out some test decals to practice how to apply them and to use as a test bed to insure you have enough clear coats on to keep your ink from smudging or running...
My decals were not all that fancy but they worked well on the model..
they were applied to a gloss paint and sealed with a gloss coat.
if you look closely at the rear decal around the o in the .com you can see some of the smudging that happens if you leave the decal in the water too long.. the one spot I didn't see until I had pretty much finished the build...
anyways those are the tips I have..
more pics of the above at my website here
Delbert
SSGToms
Connecticut, United States
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2011 - 12:52 PM UTC
Or you can get custom decals made for you, very economically, from Georg Eyerman: http://www.decalcomaniacs.net/
Anirudharun
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2011 - 09:32 PM UTC
Thanks Delbert, thats a pretty good step by step guide for making the decals. I'll look for the Testors kit since I can't seem to find the fixative you mentioned separately. On a side note your custom decals turned out great, but an armour site sponsoring nascar, surely that must have caused some discontent?
Thanks for the link Matthew, if my own attempts don't go to plan I'll see what Georg can do.
Anirudh
Thanks for the link Matthew, if my own attempts don't go to plan I'll see what Georg can do.
Anirudh
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2011 - 11:10 PM UTC
I don't know for sure what the testors fixative is .. the can calls it a "Decal Bonder" and has the word lacquer on it.. I personally think its just a clear coat of some type..
lol good one..
I actually build the armorama nascar for a campaign build
The Armorama 500
laters
Anirudharun
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2011 - 11:18 PM UTC
Ah that campaign was way before I joined, no wonder I didn't know about it. The car is very cool, whats the base kit?
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Friday, May 06, 2011 - 02:27 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I personally think its just a clear coat of some type..
That is all it is. I use Krylon Acrylic Krystal Clear spray (in the big spray can) for my decals. I have made a bunch in the above manner and have had no issues with them running after just one application of the Krylon.
Posted: Friday, May 06, 2011 - 08:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ah that campaign was way before I joined, no wonder I didn't know about it. The car is very cool, whats the base kit?
its Revell-Monogram's 2001 Chevey Winston Cup car
I think it was a Dale Earnhardt #3, if I remember right i got it to rob some decals out of it.
Hisham
Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 09:47 AM UTC
I just saw a reference to this thread in another thread! I had a question.. I bought some decal paper, but I was wondering.. for a clear fixer.. can I just use something like Vallejo clear.. or a Tamiya clear? I'm just trying to look for products I can easily get online.. Spray cans can't be shipped overseas in most countries.
Hisham
Hisham
HeavyArty
Florida, United States
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 13, 2011 - 10:23 AM UTC
Hisham - Any clear acrylic topcoat will work. The ones you listed should be fine. You should spray it through your airbrush as well. That way you get a nice, thin coat.