AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
chipping
FD3S20B
California, United States
Joined: April 27, 2011
KitMaker: 255 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: April 27, 2011
KitMaker: 255 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 04:41 AM UTC
new to this i have question about chipping?would i do this after the coat of paint is dry before i apply hair spary and begin to work the paint off?
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 06:35 AM UTC
Either-or really. It just depends on the effects you're trying to achieve. The hair spray technique is used mostly to achieve the look of large worn areas of paint, so it's only a step that you would use to get that look at some point in your finish. On the other hand, hand painted chips are used to target smaller areas with specific wear and tear. You can use either effect alone or in combination and in any sequence you need.
For example, you could spray on a Panzer gray. Hand paint primer red, rust and bare metal chips. Add the hair spray followed by a sand yellow. The heavily distress the sand yellow exposing the already worn Panzer gray for a well used Africa Corps vehicle. The same might be done with a winter white wash instead of the sand yellow for an old campaigner on the Eastern Front.
You could, however, start with primer red followed by the hair spray. Then add a three-tone camouflage over that. Heavily distress the color cammo coats, then add rust and bare metal chipping to the exposed primer red areas.
Yet another example might be, say a Third World T-62 that has changed hands several times. You could start as with the three-tone cammo example above, then add yet another lay of hair spray and a "new fresh camouflage" on top of that. Distress this last layer exposing the "older, original" camouflage. You could then add more hand-painted rust and bare metal chips only on the new camouflage representing the latest wear and tear in the vehicle's history.
Or the over the last layer of heavy chipping, you could spray a dusty glaze coat and use sponge chipping to add a fresh color to replicate where the crew has worn off the dust by walking, etc.
It all depends on what you want the final finish to look like rather than any set sequence that finish layers must be added in. Start by thinking about how you want that final look to be, then work backwards to figure out the layers and sequence you need to follow starting with the bare plastic to end up with that final look.
HTH,
For example, you could spray on a Panzer gray. Hand paint primer red, rust and bare metal chips. Add the hair spray followed by a sand yellow. The heavily distress the sand yellow exposing the already worn Panzer gray for a well used Africa Corps vehicle. The same might be done with a winter white wash instead of the sand yellow for an old campaigner on the Eastern Front.
You could, however, start with primer red followed by the hair spray. Then add a three-tone camouflage over that. Heavily distress the color cammo coats, then add rust and bare metal chipping to the exposed primer red areas.
Yet another example might be, say a Third World T-62 that has changed hands several times. You could start as with the three-tone cammo example above, then add yet another lay of hair spray and a "new fresh camouflage" on top of that. Distress this last layer exposing the "older, original" camouflage. You could then add more hand-painted rust and bare metal chips only on the new camouflage representing the latest wear and tear in the vehicle's history.
Or the over the last layer of heavy chipping, you could spray a dusty glaze coat and use sponge chipping to add a fresh color to replicate where the crew has worn off the dust by walking, etc.
It all depends on what you want the final finish to look like rather than any set sequence that finish layers must be added in. Start by thinking about how you want that final look to be, then work backwards to figure out the layers and sequence you need to follow starting with the bare plastic to end up with that final look.
HTH,
FD3S20B
California, United States
Joined: April 27, 2011
KitMaker: 255 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: April 27, 2011
KitMaker: 255 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 14, 2011 - 08:44 AM UTC
thanks for the info