Is there some trick to this art? I've never been one for fixing clear parts such as windows before painting, but I hear it's better for the adhesion of the glue and the kit I'm working on needs to have windows in place before building can be finished to the extent I want it.

But JEEZE masking is freaking hard. I can't seem to get the tape to cover the area I'm masking off properly, and it seems no matter how much I try I can't get the tape line to go all the way up so that no clear plastic shows through. Is there something I'm missing or do I just need to practice more?

Thanks,
Neu

It would help us to know what type of tape you are using.

uhhh, pretty sure it's just normal masking tape. I should probably look into blue painters tape or something like that, eh?

I use plain masking tape; I get it in big packs of several rolls wrapped together at Sam's Club, a local warehouse store. Just cut your tape into thin strips and apply it carefully; practice will indeed make a difference.
Like many of us I build aircraft as well as vehicles, apparently you do too, and aircraft always require masking.
Always use acrylic paint on canopies. I mask them and carefully brush the paint onto the frames, and if some paint oozes under the tape, as it often does, or if I screw up some other way, it's easily correctable, with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol.
If you paint your canopy frames with enamel, and make a mistake, you're screwed. Thinner ruins transparent plastic. Some types can be saved by ordering replacement canopies from the aftermarket, but for many other planes none are available, as I've learned to my dismay.
I hope I've been helpful. Good luck with your modeling.

Neu..;

I'm with JP on this: Use acrylics on those window parts (including both "glass with frames" and those panzer vision prisms, etc.). It's perhaps even easier than JP allows! You don't actually need to mask at all - pretty much an option when using acryls. Just paint the whole piece with the colors you want the frames to be, and then scrape the paint off all the clear surfaces using a wood toothpick or cocktail stick! The acryls will come off (while not yet cured - so do this as soon as the part is handling-dry) without fuss. IF you have any residue left, use that Q-tip and alcohol or water, as JP noted.

Cheers!

Bob

Acrylic paints, eh? that's very good advice. I'll have to try that.
I was just going to say that I use office Scotch celophane tape, so I can see what I'm cutting on aircraft canopy frames. Yes, I pull it off as soon as I can, because I don't trust it to let go after a day or two.
-Sean.

Doesn't anyone use Tamiya Masking tape anymore? Did I miss something?

What are you building btw, it would help people to offer tailored advice.

Many people use Future to dip or spray canopies first, this makes handling much easier as any slips or masking tape residue are easier to deal with.

For many aircraft, you can get MONTEX, EDUARD (or other brands) pre-cut masks to apply over the (futured) part.

Don't use std or blue masking tape much for erm masking..... I take so long to build residue tends to be a problem

Tamiya tape is still good to go, either cut to exact size off model for armour optics, or cut into thin strips to do edges & fill in with PVA (woodworking/school glue).

Tend not to use Humbrol Maskol, this reacts badly with acrylics or permanantly welds itself to model if left too long. Valejo have a similar acrylic version, but I haven't used it yet.

I have used clear decal sheet, paint interior colour, then exterior colour, cut into appriate widths & apply to futured cockpit glass, a bit more forgiving of clumsiness.

Personally I use Tamiya tape, there really is nothing anywhere near as good (I know, I've tried em!)

It is a lot more flexible than regular masking tape (which means you can follow the curves better) creates a good seal on the edge (meaning you get less 'creep') and comes off easily without taking paint with it

When I can't quite mask the area well enough with tape then I use a liquid mask like Mr Mask or Maskol. Paint it on and leave it an hour or so to set, then paint away and when the paint is just dry, carefully score around the area with the tip of a scalpel then full off the mask with tweezers

I have used painter's tape, plain masking tape, Tamiya tape, and liquid mask. I would suggest thin strips of Tamiya tape or a few layers of liquid masking tape. Another option is to use translucent scotch tape. You can paint it and cut it to fit the canopy supports. I have not tried this method yet, but the member who did swears by it.

Another vote for Tamiya masking tape. Great stuff. I've had a model primed for a year or so with the cockpit transparencies masked with Tamiya tape and when done, they came off as nicely as if applied the day before.
Eduard's current pre-cut yellow masks are made of material very similar to Tamiya tape.

Vallejo's masking fluid is good stuff too, but I tend to use it mostly for filling in areas bordered with tape and other places were utmost precision isn't required, as it can be tricky to apply neatly (it dries quickly and is prone to sticking to itself) or trim cleanly after drying. I haven't had problems with it sticking permanently, but it's best not to let it sit for longer than is needed, just in case.

While new to armor modeling, I've been a military modeler on and off for years. On my few armor models that I needed to mask clear parts prior to painting, I use Microscale's Micro Mask, which is a liquid mask. It's easy to peel off after all painting and sealing is done. It works great on small parts, but is a real bear on larger parts such as windshields and canopies, as it requires cutting the panel lines. Since I'm already cutting, I prefer using Tamiya 10 mm tape. It's easy to see through by holding up the canopy to a light source, seals extremely well, and produces a s crisp paint line.





There are several models that masking kits are made for. These come a Canadian company, and are vinyl. I did have some trouble keeping the circles down securely throughout the painting process.



I've used the toothpick cleanup method when needed, but not to remove larger panels of paint, while trying to keep the frame lines clean, neat, and true. Picking Acrylic paint often causes chips to come out, leaving you the task of hand touch up painting.

When using masks whether vinyl or Tamiya tape, I leave it on throughout the entire painting and sealing process. Once the last coat of Dullcoat is applied, I remove the masks before the clearcoat can fully set and dry.

Future dip for clarity
Tamiya tape works and a new sharp x-acto blade
paint the inner color first
Tacky Glue (US brand craft white glue, thicker than elmers) or Gator Glue to glue the part on
wiped into a neatly faired seal with a moist q-tip

for really oddly shaped or small areas, Vallejo's liquid mask works well too.
I've used it to seal edges. put a small drop inside the masked area and use a toothpick or micro brush to pull it to the frame line.


I've had good luck using baremetal foil as well.
The foil can be burnished into place with a toothpick and removed with one as the wood is softer than the plastic , so no scratches.

The adhesive residue can be removed with a cotton swab lightly moistened with Goo-Gone.

This does not damage acrylic Tamiya, Model Master or Gunze paints. But it is pertoleum based, so it might damage enamels. I dont use enamels, but heads up.

Mike

Try this:

http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/170204&ord=&page=1

Scroll down to almost the bottom on the first page. Should give you an idea.

Tell me if it helped.

Try blu tac for the edges to stop paint getting underneath the tape.