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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Brushing Tamiya Acrylics?
imatanker
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 04:35 AM UTC
Gentlemen,I read the "best paint for brushing" thread hoping to find an answer to my question but it was not there. Are Tamiya acrylics brushable?I have a bunch of very small parts that need to be done.If it is brushable does it need to be thinned and if so, with what Thanks ,Jeff
BigSmitty
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 04:59 AM UTC
Jeff,

Tamiya acrylics are indeed "brushable". I use them sparingly noow on some small parts as needed. Others will chime in with more experience than me, but from my experience, they dry fast, so don't go back if you miss a spot until it dries completely; Tamiya acrylics have a nasty reputation of lifting in that weird "almost dry" stage. Make sure they are mixed well, I use Badger's little battery powered mixer and it makes all the difference in the world. I usually add a couple of drops of retarding agent (I take a few drops out of the bottle onto a palette first) and a drop of flow enhancer which thins out the paint a bit and gets rid of that lifting issue. I don't normally have to add anything else to thin it.

I use mostly Vallejo now, as I like the dropper formula, and it's paint formula seems to work much better for me.
retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 06:00 AM UTC
Unless you are drybrushing, Tamiya acrylics are difficult. It usually takes me about three coats for anything larger than a 1/35 hand. However, the result is worth the effort.
AgentG
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 06:42 AM UTC
Thin them and paint in multiple light coats. Wait between each coat as mentioned to prevent the dreaded lifting.

This guy was base coated with Tamiya colors.







Buff and a lightened version of Buff for the first two colors. The remainder was Vallejo.

G

imatanker
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 07:37 AM UTC
Matt S. So it can be done.Names of retarder and flow enhancer?I think i saw a thread about these products but i can't find it............Matt N.I don't mind doing three or more coats if the results are worth it ..........Wayne how long between coats do you wait? Nice figure by the way,I have 4 to do.First try with them,I'm a little scared .thanks ,Jeff
BigSmitty
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 07:52 AM UTC
JT,

I use Liquitex for the flow enhancer and retarder. I got mine at Blick's Art Supply.

Here is what I'm talking about:



The retarder is in the same style bottle. Both are clear, like water, and a bottle this size will last a LONG time. I think it was $5 or so.

If you have a Michael's craft store near you, you can find them in with the painting supplies with the little plastic palettes (great for us, a six pan palette is under $2), oil paints, thinners and that stuff.
imatanker
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Posted: Friday, July 01, 2011 - 11:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

JT,

I use Liquitex for the flow enhancer and retarder. I got mine at Blick's Art Supply.

Here is what I'm talking about:



The retarder is in the same style bottle. Both are clear, like water, and a bottle this size will last a LONG time. I think it was $5 or so.

If you have a Michael's craft store near you, you can find them in with the painting supplies with the little plastic palettes (great for us, a six pan palette is under $2), oil paints, thinners and that stuff.

Nice,O.K. so now two more questions,Brush clean up with.....water,windex? And what are we looking at for dry times between coats?Thanks again all this stuff is really helping me out Jeff .................................. P.S. Wayne,I think I will send you my figures to do:)
Karl187
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 03:53 AM UTC
Try tap water or distilled water for clean-up. The best thing is Tamiya's own thinner though.
imatanker
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 04:25 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Try tap water or distilled water for clean-up. The best thing is Tamiya's own thinner though.

That would be the X 20?I think I've heard that iso alcohol can be used?Yes/no?
Karl187
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 04:31 AM UTC
Yes Tamiya X-20A Thinner is the one. I'm not sure about iso alcohol as I only use water or X-20A when working with Tamiya paints.
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 04:39 AM UTC
I have used tap water, distilled water, Windex, and IPA. IPA works the best, followed by distilled water, then Windex and tap water. I have never, ever used Tamiya thinner. IPA works too good for me to pay $2 for the brand name thinner.
imatanker
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 04:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I have used tap water, distilled water, Windex, and IPA. IPA works the best, followed by distilled water, then Windex and tap water. I have never, ever used Tamiya thinner. IPA works too good for me to pay $2 for the brand name thinner.

Matt N.I'm glad to hear that IPA can be used.For what ever reason tha X20A is getting hard to find.What percent IPA do you use?50,70,90?
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 04:54 AM UTC
You can dilute tamiya acrilyc paint with:

demineralized water, x20a thinner and ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL

You can also use automotive blue screen washer.
Actually blue screen washer is a mixture which contains ethanol alcohol, so is the same as Tamiya thinner

HERE

http://www.little-cars.co.uk/workbench49.pdf

you can find an useful pdf about dilutions

cheers
imatanker
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 05:22 AM UTC
Nice,Nice,Nice,Nice Once again you guys have not let me down.This rounds on me Thanks, Jeff
AgentG
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 06:13 AM UTC
I waited about 30-40 minutes between coats. That said I live in a desert climate with 110 degrees and 5% humidity the norm. This in itself effects all paints!
I use Winsor and Newton acrylic flow enhancer, but they are same same AFAIK.
Ship them figures over, I need all the practise I can get.

G
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 06:51 AM UTC
For airbrushing, I use 30-50% IPA. Also, for airbrushing, add a couple of drops of windex to your mixture. This will keep the paint from drying before it leaves the brush. To clean paint brushes, rinse them in pure IPA. I should have a figure done today to show you the result of Tamiya paints alone. The worst paint I have found to do by hand is Flat Flesh. Several coats means I can't preshade the fleshy bits. Watercolors work well to add shadows.

The Tamiya products import duties have been raised. None of my LHSs are restocking Tamiya paint products. Actually, I should be going down next week and buying the remainder of their stock.
AgentG
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 07:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

For airbrushing, I use 30-50% IPA. Also, for airbrushing, add a couple of drops of windex to your mixture. This will keep the paint from drying before it leaves the brush. To clean paint brushes, rinse them in pure IPA. I should have a figure done today to show you the result of Tamiya paints alone. The worst paint I have found to do by hand is Flat Flesh. Several coats means I can't preshade the fleshy bits. Watercolors work well to add shadows.

The Tamiya products import duties have been raised. None of my LHSs are restocking Tamiya paint products. Actually, I should be going down next week and buying the remainder of their stock.



I concur Flat Flesh is a bear to work with.

I have had good results with Tamiya and their laquer thinner or their acrylic thinner.

I have only used Windex with MM acrylics. With that and flow enhancer, MM literally dries in the AB paint cup. I get good results when spraying base coats, but detail work is near impossible for me.

We're playing the waiting game here in Nevada with regards to Tamiya. Hobby Town says it will import stock again. My LHS is undecided.

G
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 09:10 AM UTC
He still needs drybrushing and pupils, but this is totally Tamiya. Fig and paints are Tamiya.
imatanker
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 09:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text

He still needs drybrushing and pupils, but this is totally Tamiya. Fig and paints are Tamiya.

He looks really good.I think I can make this work.(no pupils make him look kind of creepy though) So let me get this straight.For brushing,retarder,flow aid.clean up/thin for spraying ipa,windex or blue screen cleaner?......When you use Ipa do you use the 50,70, or 90% I'm talking about the stuff you get at wally world,walgreens,or rite aid
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 10:22 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

He still needs drybrushing and pupils, but this is totally Tamiya. Fig and paints are Tamiya.

He looks really good.I think I can make this work.(no pupils make him look kind of creepy though) So let me get this straight.For brushing,retarder,flow aid.clean up/thin for spraying ipa,windex or blue screen cleaner?......When you use Ipa do you use the 50,70, or 90% I'm talking about the stuff you get at wally world,walgreens,or rite aid


When airbrushing, I use 30-50% IPA and a couple of drops of windex. For cleaning my brushes, I use pure IPA. You can also use and of the other solvents, but in my experience, IPA is the best.
imatanker
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 11:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text


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He still needs drybrushing and pupils, but this is totally Tamiya. Fig and paints are Tamiya.

He looks really good.I think I can make this work.(no pupils make him look kind of creepy though) So let me get this straight.For brushing,retarder,flow aid.clean up/thin for spraying ipa,windex or blue screen cleaner?......When you use Ipa do you use the 50,70, or 90% I'm talking about the stuff you get at wally world,walgreens,or rite aid


When airbrushing, I use 30-50% IPA and a couple of drops of windex. For cleaning my brushes, I use pure IPA. You can also use and of the other solvents, but in my experience, IPA is the best.

Matt,I'm sorry,I am still a little confused. When you say you use 30-50% ipa do you mean thats how much you reduce the paint for spraying? I need to know what % the ipa you are using to reduce the paint with.When you buy a bottle of IPA(rubbing alcohol)at the drug store or where ever,it is generaly 70% alcohol 30%water mix.Is that what you are using to thin/clean with,or are you using pure IPA (100% no water added) sorry to be so picky.Thanks again Jeff
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 12:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text


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Quoted Text

He still needs drybrushing and pupils, but this is totally Tamiya. Fig and paints are Tamiya.

He looks really good.I think I can make this work.(no pupils make him look kind of creepy though) So let me get this straight.For brushing,retarder,flow aid.clean up/thin for spraying ipa,windex or blue screen cleaner?......When you use Ipa do you use the 50,70, or 90% I'm talking about the stuff you get at wally world,walgreens,or rite aid


When airbrushing, I use 30-50% IPA and a couple of drops of windex. For cleaning my brushes, I use pure IPA. You can also use and of the other solvents, but in my experience, IPA is the best.

Matt,I'm sorry,I am still a little confused. When you say you use 30-50% ipa do you mean thats how much you reduce the paint for spraying? I need to know what % the ipa you are using to reduce the paint with.When you buy a bottle of IPA(rubbing alcohol)at the drug store or where ever,it is generaly 70% alcohol 30%water mix.Is that what you are using to thin/clean with,or are you using pure IPA (100% no water added) sorry to be so picky.Thanks again Jeff


For spraying Tamiya, I use a 1:1 or 3:1 ratio(paint to IPA). I also add a couple of drops of Windex, to keep it from clogging the nozzle. I do not use any other thinners. You will want to build up the coats as you airbrush.
Now, for cleaning brushes, I use 100% IPA. Hope this clears it up for you.
imatanker
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Posted: Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 12:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


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Quoted Text

He still needs drybrushing and pupils, but this is totally Tamiya. Fig and paints are Tamiya.

He looks really good.I think I can make this work.(no pupils make him look kind of creepy though) So let me get this straight.For brushing,retarder,flow aid.clean up/thin for spraying ipa,windex or blue screen cleaner?......When you use Ipa do you use the 50,70, or 90% I'm talking about the stuff you get at wally world,walgreens,or rite aid


When airbrushing, I use 30-50% IPA and a couple of drops of windex. For cleaning my brushes, I use pure IPA. You can also use and of the other solvents, but in my experience, IPA is the best.

Matt,I'm sorry,I am still a little confused. When you say you use 30-50% ipa do you mean thats how much you reduce the paint for spraying? I need to know what % the ipa you are using to reduce the paint with.When you buy a bottle of IPA(rubbing alcohol)at the drug store or where ever,it is generaly 70% alcohol 30%water mix.Is that what you are using to thin/clean with,or are you using pure IPA (100% no water added) sorry to be so picky.Thanks again Jeff


For spraying Tamiya, I use a 1:1 or 3:1 ratio(paint to IPA). I also add a couple of drops of Windex, to keep it from clogging the nozzle. I do not use any other thinners. You will want to build up the coats as you airbrush.
Now, for cleaning brushes, I use 100% IPA. Hope this clears it up for you.

Yes it does thank you.Where are you getting your IPA?Can you get it over the counter?
imatanker
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Posted: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 01:26 AM UTC
Next question,When they dry ,are they glossy,satin,flat I mean ,I know that X-18 semi gloss blk is semi gloss,and Xf-1 flat blk is flat,and so on,but if it is a color like X-1 blk,what is the gloss level Regards,Jeff
retiredyank
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Posted: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 01:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Next question,When they dry ,are they glossy,satin,flat I mean ,I know that X-18 semi gloss blk is semi gloss,and Xf-1 flat blk is flat,and so on,but if it is a color like X-1 blk,what is the gloss level Regards,Jeff


If you want to get rid of the gloss, just hit them with dulcote or flat clear.
I get my IPA from the dollar store and Walmart. I picked up a twin pack from Sams that should last me a few years. I have some other figures that are total Tamiya and I should be able to finish and post today. A note on this, I did not use Tamiya for the basecoat of flesh. I used MM Light Skin. Also, I use watercolors to add the shading on the flesh bits. I will show them with stubble and explain how to do that.
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