But what I would like to know is how to make the suspension look as though it moving as it is riding over something....
Any help is as always accepted! lol.
Cheers Guys.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Operation Cobra Sherman
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 28, 2011 - 10:59 AM UTC
Ok, So I got this earlier this year and have now decided that it's my next project.
But what I would like to know is how to make the suspension look as though it moving as it is riding over something....
Any help is as always accepted! lol.
Cheers Guys.
But what I would like to know is how to make the suspension look as though it moving as it is riding over something....
Any help is as always accepted! lol.
Cheers Guys.
HONEYCUT
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 4,002 posts
Armorama: 2,947 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 28, 2011 - 11:50 AM UTC
Hey Paul to be honest I think it is a technique that often looks overly contrived when incorporated in a scene. That said, when done well it looks highly effective and adds to the 'motion' of a static scene. I figure you know about the functional innaccuracy of the DML suspension ( having the bogey arms one rigid piece through both sides of the housing assembly, instead of independently functioning arms for either side. So when lifting one side to show the wheel having gone over a log for example, the other (joined) side drops lower than the previous ground level run. The tasca running gear is super accurate in look and function, allowing the bogey wheel on the one side of the housing only to lift as needed.
You could cut the kit arms in half and with some surgery ( use some reference shots) you could cover the work up as most all will be hidden behind the housing.
Personally, I'd run with the relevant tasca bogey assemblies, but I think it can be done.
Brad
P.S. There are a couple of errors in this build that need attention. Why not construct as a build log and we can chip in and help you when you get to those points? Failing that, I'm sure someone has a quick link or list outlining them
You could cut the kit arms in half and with some surgery ( use some reference shots) you could cover the work up as most all will be hidden behind the housing.
Personally, I'd run with the relevant tasca bogey assemblies, but I think it can be done.
Brad
P.S. There are a couple of errors in this build that need attention. Why not construct as a build log and we can chip in and help you when you get to those points? Failing that, I'm sure someone has a quick link or list outlining them
errains
#045
Joined: September 23, 2005
KitMaker: 362 posts
Armorama: 350 posts
Posted: Monday, August 22, 2011 - 01:41 PM UTC
Hey Paul,
If you don't mind spending a few more bucks AFV offers a VVSS Suspension kit that should work. Check out this PMMS Review for more info.
I say go for it! it will look Kool!
If you don't mind spending a few more bucks AFV offers a VVSS Suspension kit that should work. Check out this PMMS Review for more info.
I say go for it! it will look Kool!
Totalize
Joined: February 04, 2009
KitMaker: 743 posts
Armorama: 549 posts
Posted: Monday, August 22, 2011 - 02:24 PM UTC
Paul,
I have this kit in my stash but haven't got to it yet. Not sure what you are using for a reference but Steve Zaloga's book from Osprey entitled Modelling the US Army M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium is a good resource to have for this build.
I have this kit in my stash but haven't got to it yet. Not sure what you are using for a reference but Steve Zaloga's book from Osprey entitled Modelling the US Army M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium is a good resource to have for this build.
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 10:22 AM UTC
right my AFV club workable suspension has arrived for the Sherman, so looking forward to that.
Armor_Dude. I already have the Steve Zaloga book from Osprey entitled Modelling the US Army M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium, and it is a very interesting read, but I actually want to do something different with the kit.
So I'm enlisting the help of the Armorama squad
What I'd like to know is where there any M4 76mm in Italy or North Africa? Also, if I wanted to "down grade" this to a 75mm is it just a case of replacing the barrel?
Cheers Guys.
Armor_Dude. I already have the Steve Zaloga book from Osprey entitled Modelling the US Army M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium, and it is a very interesting read, but I actually want to do something different with the kit.
So I'm enlisting the help of the Armorama squad
What I'd like to know is where there any M4 76mm in Italy or North Africa? Also, if I wanted to "down grade" this to a 75mm is it just a case of replacing the barrel?
Cheers Guys.
War_Machine
Joined: February 11, 2003
KitMaker: 702 posts
Armorama: 385 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 11:07 AM UTC
No M4A1s with 76mm guns in North Africa, but they were used in Italy. Trying to convert that particular kit into a 75mm version would take a good deal of work. You'd need aftermarket/spares box parts as well as do some basic conversion work, because you'd need a new turret and modified hull sides for a 75mm version. Pluse those were pretty rare versions and appear to have been used primarily as DD tanks in NW Europe, so your options for display may be a bit limited.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 11:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
right my AFV club workable suspension has arrived for the Sherman, so looking forward to that.
Armor_Dude. I already have the Steve Zaloga book from Osprey entitled Modelling the US Army M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium, and it is a very interesting read, but I actually want to do something different with the kit.
So I'm enlisting the help of the Armorama squad
What I'd like to know is where there any M4 76mm in Italy or North Africa? Also, if I wanted to "down grade" this to a 75mm is it just a case of replacing the barrel?
Cheers Guys.
The 75mm tanks had a completely different turret. The 76mm tanks had the T23 turret.
jowady
Joined: June 12, 2006
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 683 posts
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 683 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 06:57 PM UTC
To convert the Cobra M4A1 76 to an M4A1 75 would require at least a new turret, and probably a new hull as well as very few big hatch hull 75s were made, and fewer deployed. Between the new upper hull, new turret, new barrel and new suspension (that you ordered already) you will have replaced just about everything. Probably cheaper to just get the Tasca M4A1!
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 10:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
To convert the Cobra M4A1 76 to an M4A1 75 would require at least a new turret, and probably a new hull as well as very few big hatch hull 75s were made, and fewer deployed. Between the new upper hull, new turret, new barrel and new suspension (that you ordered already) you will have replaced just about everything. Probably cheaper to just get the Tasca M4A1!
Ok so it's staying as a M4a1 76mm, just now to think of a dio idea..
Thanks
Totalize
Joined: February 04, 2009
KitMaker: 743 posts
Armorama: 549 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 03:35 PM UTC
Quoted Text
right my AFV club workable suspension has arrived for the Sherman, so looking forward to that.
Armor_Dude. I already have the Steve Zaloga book from Osprey entitled Modelling the US Army M4 (76mm) Sherman Medium, and it is a very interesting read, but I actually want to do something different with the kit.
So I'm enlisting the help of the Armorama squad
What I'd like to know is where there any M4 76mm in Italy or North Africa? Also, if I wanted to "down grade" this to a 75mm is it just a case of replacing the barrel?
Cheers Guys.
Paul you could definitely do something different from the kit you have if keeping it an M4A1(76) W Sherman. The British and Commonwealth units used This tank and called it the Sherman IIa. It was not used in North Africa but was indeed used in Italy by British and South African units (6th SA AD) for sure. I am not sure if the New Zealand units got them. The Polish units in Italy did not get them as I understand but did in North West Europe and even intermingled them with Firefly's. The Canadians in Italy did not get them nor did they get them In NWE as they preferred the Firefly.
In Italy the Queen's Bay's of the British 2nd armoured brigade used them as did other units such as the 10th and 9th Hussars . Bison Decals makes a set for the Queen's bays. Here's the link:
http://www.angelfire.com/pro/bison/35089.html
On the listing of the unit Bison has it incorrect as a Sherman IIB but on the actual picture of the tank for decal reference they have it correctly as a Sherman IIA.
So, you could definitely do a British Sherman IIa or if you can find a good reference do a South African IIa as well in Italy. For NWE you could do a Polish IIa as an option. Apparently these tanks had the split loader's hatch as opposed to the oval one, the split hatch probably being the late type versus the early. Check your references to be sure though.
Dutchy3RTR
Joined: June 28, 2009
KitMaker: 340 posts
Armorama: 337 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 11:49 PM UTC
Paul, there were 538 Sherman IIA's used in Italy by the Brits so you've got plenty of choice of units. 
7 Armd Bde for example: 2RTR, 6RTR and 8RTR (they replaced 7QOH from 9/44 onwards). I did the exact same kit as a 2RTR one.
7 Armd Bde for example: 2RTR, 6RTR and 8RTR (they replaced 7QOH from 9/44 onwards). I did the exact same kit as a 2RTR one.
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 08:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Paul, there were 538 Sherman IIA's used in Italy by the Brits so you've got plenty of choice of units.
7 Armd Bde for example: 2RTR, 6RTR and 8RTR (they replaced 7QOH from 9/44 onwards). I did the exact same kit as a 2RTR one.
Thanks for the replies guys, given me good choices...
jowady
Joined: June 12, 2006
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 683 posts
KitMaker: 1,027 posts
Armorama: 683 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 11:48 AM UTC
[quote]
IIRC the kit include decals for a Polish tank in Holland.
Quoted Text
For NWE you could do a Polish IIa as an option. Apparently these tanks had the split loader's hatch as opposed to the oval one, the split hatch probably being the late type versus the early. Check your references to be sure though.
IIRC the kit include decals for a Polish tank in Holland.
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 04, 2011 - 10:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Paul,
If you don't mind spending a few more bucks AFV offers a VVSS Suspension kit that should work. Check out this PMMS Review for more info.
I say go for it! it will look Kool!
Ok so this arrived last week....
Had a quick look today and it looks pretty easy enough to put together, still gotta find a unit/tank to copy....
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 10:21 AM UTC
1 down 5 more to go. They are a little fiddly to put together when you have fat fingers, but they look good and work!
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 01:50 AM UTC
Hi guys, I'm looking to start a building for this diorama. And I'm wanting something with the stonework similar to what can be found around the french countryside houses, is there an easy way to do this?
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 03:22 AM UTC
It all depends on what you have in mind - whether you want to scratch-build or buy commercial structures. MiniArt have several vacu-form Norman-French style fieldstone houses, walls, and buildings. Several other companies have plaster or hydrocal equivalents.
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 07:19 AM UTC
I was looking at scratch build, as I already have some foamboard for the actual structure..
I have looked at the miniart models and some are quite interesting, but not exactly what I'm after
I have looked at the miniart models and some are quite interesting, but not exactly what I'm after
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 05:46 AM UTC
Your construction methods will vary considerably in complexity depending on the type of building you will model, ie; a wall or a building; with or without interior detail; intact or damaged. An intact structure is usually easier to build than a damaged one - especially when using plastic sheet and foam board.
thewrongguy
Joined: October 17, 2002
KitMaker: 448 posts
Armorama: 306 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 06:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I was looking at scratch build, as I already have some foamboard for the actual structure..
I have looked at the miniart models and some are quite interesting, but not exactly what I'm after
Model rail-road shops sell stonework walls in various scales. I've seen some people use that in dioramas effectively.
Example
Cheers
Jeff
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 08:45 AM UTC
As an alternative, you could pour yourself a sheet of plaster or hydrocal about 1/4 " thick, and before it is completely set up, scribe in your stone courses and other detail. Being fragile it is all too easy to (sometimes inadvertantly) add battle damage.
errains
#045
Joined: September 23, 2005
KitMaker: 362 posts
Armorama: 350 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 12, 2012 - 01:11 PM UTC
Hey Paul,
Check out this Link for Balsa Foam, this stuff Kicks A!!
Working with Balsa Foam
And here is where to get it Blick
Check out this Link for Balsa Foam, this stuff Kicks A!!
Working with Balsa Foam
And here is where to get it Blick
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 03:58 AM UTC
Speaking of foam, closed cell foam - the kind meat is packaged on at the supermarket - can be 'engraved' with a ballpoint pen. Also, insulating foam sheeting, blue or pink, can be carved similar to the above mentioned Balsa Foam. (Caution: the dust from carving and sanding these foams can be harmful to your health!) 
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Friday, January 04, 2013 - 04:52 AM UTC
So its time to revive this model / diorama... I've started building miniarts country diorama, and the small barn is going to feature in this dio.
This was before selecting a few bricks to change the colour..
The walls are painted white and are going to get a dirty grey oil paint wipe down as per miniarts tutorial...
Bot sure yet how best to do the road that comes with the dio... Then its onto completing the Sherman..
It may not be historically correct, but I'm not trying to replicate any photos with this diorama.. just a possibility in history...
This was before selecting a few bricks to change the colour..
The walls are painted white and are going to get a dirty grey oil paint wipe down as per miniarts tutorial...
Bot sure yet how best to do the road that comes with the dio... Then its onto completing the Sherman..
It may not be historically correct, but I'm not trying to replicate any photos with this diorama.. just a possibility in history...
newdriftking
Joined: September 20, 2008
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 283 posts
Posted: Sunday, January 27, 2013 - 10:21 AM UTC
Quoted Text
So its time to revive this model / diorama... I've started building miniarts country diorama, and the small barn is going to feature in this dio.
This was before selecting a few bricks to change the colour..
The walls are painted white and are going to get a dirty grey oil paint wipe down as per miniarts tutorial...
Bot sure yet how best to do the road that comes with the dio... Then its onto completing the Sherman..
It may not be historically correct, but I'm not trying to replicate any photos with this diorama.. just a possibility in history...
So I'm having trouble sorting the roof on this building, I want to depict it in France but the roof that comes with it doesn't quite look right.. Any suggestions to change it..?
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