hi all,
after reading some other blogs i have came to wonder,
what is a pin wash and how do i apply it,
any tips, techniques or advice would be very much appreciated.
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
pin wash?
juniormodeler
Ontario, Canada
Joined: August 21, 2011
KitMaker: 24 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Joined: August 21, 2011
KitMaker: 24 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 02:33 AM UTC
Anirudharun
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Joined: February 16, 2008
KitMaker: 597 posts
Armorama: 530 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 03:16 AM UTC
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 23, 2011 - 03:17 AM UTC
A pin wash is a wash, usually a dark color up to and including black to help define panel lines, recesses, defining area between two parts like a gas cap and hull. I like to apply it over a gloss base so it flows. Unlike a regular wash or filter, I apply a pin wash with a very small brush like a 10/0 by just touching the recessed line, and let the wash work it's way through it. Where it stops I touch it again, and so on.
I give the pin wash a few min to start to dry, then I use a Q-tip dampened, and it's just that, damp with the same thinner you used to make the wash, and I very gently clean off the excess. I do this by brushing the Q-tip across the pin wash. In the example of the gas cap, you just gently work it around, not pushing the Q-tip down into the joint.
Hope my explanation helps.
I give the pin wash a few min to start to dry, then I use a Q-tip dampened, and it's just that, damp with the same thinner you used to make the wash, and I very gently clean off the excess. I do this by brushing the Q-tip across the pin wash. In the example of the gas cap, you just gently work it around, not pushing the Q-tip down into the joint.
Hope my explanation helps.
collin26
Connecticut, United States
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 01:57 AM UTC
Justin,
Joel has the right idea. You want dilute your paint to 90/10.
Joel has the right idea. You want dilute your paint to 90/10.
Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 03:46 AM UTC
@ Justin
Both Iain and Joel have very good answers. And the technique described by Joel works really well. Mine is similar for about 90 percent.
I usually wet the whole panel with turpentine (brings no problems as I always do this on an acrylic paint basecoat) And then I tip the details like bolts and recesslines with the diluted paint. The moist surface makes that the paint always flows to corners and cracks and raised details. Works pretty neat.
Below is an example. The Bolts under the windscreen. The small white plate at the bottom and the tiedowns all have had this threatment
Hope this answers some things for you.
Both Iain and Joel have very good answers. And the technique described by Joel works really well. Mine is similar for about 90 percent.
I usually wet the whole panel with turpentine (brings no problems as I always do this on an acrylic paint basecoat) And then I tip the details like bolts and recesslines with the diluted paint. The moist surface makes that the paint always flows to corners and cracks and raised details. Works pretty neat.
Below is an example. The Bolts under the windscreen. The small white plate at the bottom and the tiedowns all have had this threatment
Hope this answers some things for you.
collin26
Connecticut, United States
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Joined: March 24, 2007
KitMaker: 317 posts
Armorama: 259 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 08:44 AM UTC
Justin,
VERY IMPORTANT!! I made a mistake in the ratio....!!!!
Should be more like 75/25 -or- 80/20
The ratio of 90/10 is more the guidline for making your own Filters.
I am sorry if I cause any confusion.
VERY IMPORTANT!! I made a mistake in the ratio....!!!!
Should be more like 75/25 -or- 80/20
The ratio of 90/10 is more the guidline for making your own Filters.
I am sorry if I cause any confusion.
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 03:46 AM UTC
Guys, I've seen ratios quoted from 7/1 to 9/1 thinner to paint for pin washes, right through filters. I guess I'm just not that fussy about it. I use basically the same ratio, although I have no idea of what it is. All my washes are prepared the same exact way. I use th e bottom of a Tamiya paint jar, and fill up the recess with Mineral Spirits, then I use a tooth pick with a very small dab of oil paint on it, and just mix the two together. My main objective is to have a mixture that's just turns into a opaque solid color. Some times another dab is needed. But I'm always on the conservative side.
Robert, I really like your method of pre-wetting the area. Going to try it on my current M7 Priest build.
Robert, I really like your method of pre-wetting the area. Going to try it on my current M7 Priest build.