I pcked up a Maquette?, 1/35 scale armor kit... And to my suprirse..HOLY COW!, You have to assemble the track link by link!. I have never done this... And it just seems impossible...

Do I assmeble it the track and then install??, I dont think so..
Then How do I get it to conform to the wheels??? If thats the case..It seems imposssible to assemble on the AFV?

Should I paint before Assembly?

Or is it easier to buy aftermarket "rubber bands"? Who makes em?

Well I most always replace the kits tracks, weather individual link, or vinyl with either ModelKasten's fine offerings or Fruil Model tracks. I find non workable individual link tracks a pain in the neck to do, and you have to install on the kit first constructed on the model, or in 4 sub assemblies. First work around the drive srpocket and idler wheels, then work on the top and bottom tracks. Model Masters Glue with the metal applicator is the best for this. It has a slower drying time, and it is easy to apply. Just make sure you use a guide to keep the tracks straight and you should be ok.

I am sure others will have other methods .

Good luck

Rob

Propboy, here is a good step by step feature on assemblying the link by link tracks. Fruil or ModelKasten's replacment tracks will be better with less clean up, they will also be somewhat costly.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/84

you should try Dragons Shermans they have three peices to each track
with the tracks you have, use a steel Rule to keep the tracks straight

I made a jig for putting mine together. I made mine from aluminum but you could also make it from wood. Just take a piece of wood and put a 1/2 square strip across the back edge ensuring that it is square.., and put one side of the links against this edge to hold the straight and assemble away.

Here is what I do..

First - assemble the track that will go on the bottom, under the road wheels. I use the testors cement in the black triangular bottle with the metal needle tip. I glue these and let them dry - as they are a flat straight run. Then I assemble the front run that goes from the front of the length I have just made, up to the top of the drive sprocket. Make sure you only do enough links to stop at the top of the sprocket. You don't want to start making the sag between the rollers yet. Then do the back the same way - stopping at the top of the idler wheel. You can let it all dry now.

All you have left is the run across the top, over the return rollers.

I use a piece of masking tape rolled into a loop, sticky side out for this. Make the loop about 8 inches long and stick it to your work bench. (Kinda like the loops of tape you use to stick a poster on the wall) You should have about 6 or 7 inches along the top of the loop (sticky side up) to work with. Make sure that you make this loop long enough to assemble the whole run of track you need to finish.

I stick the track links to the tape (track face down) until I get the length I want. I can test fit the length on the model because the tape holds the links in place. I can determine how many links I need to get the correct sag and everything. Once I like the number of links I have assembled on the tape, I dab a little glue on the joints and allow it to dry about 5 minutes. Now I can stick the length of track on the model, and form my track sag. Once the glue is fully dry, I remove the tape and permenantly attach the track ends to the links on the sprocket and idler - voila...... done. I used this tecnique to do the tracks on my Nashorn. I like the subtle sag.... How much sag you want to impart is entirely up to you. I kinda prefer the a little sag - not really droopy - but that is just me. It is easy and painless

I like this kind of tracks quite a lot. My process is almost the same as described by Jrnelson. If I don't do tracks needing sag I just use CA glue...



Ciao

Thanks guys!, Great advice as always...I will attempt it today