Hello all,
I am trying photo etched details for the first time and was wondering:
1 - Does the metal need any special priming prior to painting?
2 - Is any type of glue better to use?
3 - any tips on bending the parts to better conform to the model?
Any suggestions or insights would be appreciated.
Thanks alot, Ray :-)
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?'s about PE details
raycel
New York, United States
Joined: June 22, 2003
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Joined: June 22, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 02:18 AM UTC
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
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Joined: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 02:27 AM UTC
I would wash the parts first (on the sprue) to get any oils or anything off of it.
A base coat is not essential but recommended. I have gone without and found coverage to be ok. The large the area the more need there may be for it though.
Bending can be done easier with allening (sp?) this is simply heating it lightly and slowly to help it bend easier. Use a scrap piece of doweling to help roll any rounded parts.
I just used Zap (CA) for gluing and didn't have any problems.
When you're cutting the pieces I would put your finger over the piece as you cut the last sprue connector. This will help reduce snip launch and lost parts.
Test fit everything and do a dry run on parts before you remove the kit part. That way if you don't like the way the PE is turning out you haven't destroyed the kit version.
The biggest thing is to be patient.
A base coat is not essential but recommended. I have gone without and found coverage to be ok. The large the area the more need there may be for it though.
Bending can be done easier with allening (sp?) this is simply heating it lightly and slowly to help it bend easier. Use a scrap piece of doweling to help roll any rounded parts.
I just used Zap (CA) for gluing and didn't have any problems.
When you're cutting the pieces I would put your finger over the piece as you cut the last sprue connector. This will help reduce snip launch and lost parts.
Test fit everything and do a dry run on parts before you remove the kit part. That way if you don't like the way the PE is turning out you haven't destroyed the kit version.
The biggest thing is to be patient.
Folgore
Canada
Joined: May 31, 2002
KitMaker: 1,109 posts
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Joined: May 31, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 02:31 AM UTC
Hey Ray,
There are special tools for bending, folding, and cutting PE, but they are quite expensive and you probably won't want to try them yet (I still haven't bought any of these tools).
What I do is cut the part out with an X-acto knife. I place the fret on top of an old ceramic tile to do this, because it is so hard and easy to cut on. Holding the part in flat pliers, I sand the remaining "sprue" off with a sanding stick. I use the same flat pliers or tweezers to bend the part to the desired shape. Usually, You are bending sharp angles and this works well, but it is also possible to shape rounded contours if you are careful and take your time. The part must then be glued onto the model (or another PE part) with cyanoacrylate (super glue). Finally, it is best to prime the model after all the PE is attached. I use Testors Gray Primer. You could probably use enamel flat black if you like preshading. There are some slight variations to the method I use, but they are all just as simple. The main thing with PE, I think, is to take your time, especially with studying the instructions.
Good luck,
Nic
There are special tools for bending, folding, and cutting PE, but they are quite expensive and you probably won't want to try them yet (I still haven't bought any of these tools).
What I do is cut the part out with an X-acto knife. I place the fret on top of an old ceramic tile to do this, because it is so hard and easy to cut on. Holding the part in flat pliers, I sand the remaining "sprue" off with a sanding stick. I use the same flat pliers or tweezers to bend the part to the desired shape. Usually, You are bending sharp angles and this works well, but it is also possible to shape rounded contours if you are careful and take your time. The part must then be glued onto the model (or another PE part) with cyanoacrylate (super glue). Finally, it is best to prime the model after all the PE is attached. I use Testors Gray Primer. You could probably use enamel flat black if you like preshading. There are some slight variations to the method I use, but they are all just as simple. The main thing with PE, I think, is to take your time, especially with studying the instructions.
Good luck,
Nic
sgirty
Ohio, United States
Joined: February 12, 2003
KitMaker: 1,315 posts
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Joined: February 12, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 - 02:40 AM UTC
Hi. In a short statement: PE is rough. Takes lots and lots of patience, practice and steady hands. Don't forget the tweezers and magnifier too. But maybe this is just for us older folks.
Never had any problem with doing anything speical to the metal before priming. My primers (auto primer) sticks real well, so far. There may be 'oils' on it, but if you give your model or model parts a good washing in warm soapy water and a good gentle drying process before primering/painting, this should remove them.
CA is the best glue to use in my experience. When I do any PE (which I try to stay away from as much as possible, mainly because I just don't have the patience) I use a mdium setting super glue, as it gives you time to get things into their proper position before it sets. Epoxy will do as well.
Bending items is done with usually a single edged razor blade. There are usually creases on the parts themselves showing where you are to bend them at. So follow these. There are tools out called Hold-and-Folds that are supposed to be the wonder tools of PE, so you might check into these. Items that are to be rounded are usually bent around objects that you happen to have around the house to get them to conform to the shape you want them to be.
Also heard of some folks annealing the pieces before doing their bending. Never have done this yet, but I hear it works pretty good for some items.
Be very gentle in the weathering and dry brushing dept., as super glue will stick just about anything together, but any type of tapping a little too hard from the side can break them off, usually never to be seen again in this dimension.
And lots and lots of practice. Remember, you don't have to use absolutely everthing on the sheet. Just the things you what and feel comfortable in doing as your skills progress.
Good luck and take care, sgirty
Never had any problem with doing anything speical to the metal before priming. My primers (auto primer) sticks real well, so far. There may be 'oils' on it, but if you give your model or model parts a good washing in warm soapy water and a good gentle drying process before primering/painting, this should remove them.
CA is the best glue to use in my experience. When I do any PE (which I try to stay away from as much as possible, mainly because I just don't have the patience) I use a mdium setting super glue, as it gives you time to get things into their proper position before it sets. Epoxy will do as well.
Bending items is done with usually a single edged razor blade. There are usually creases on the parts themselves showing where you are to bend them at. So follow these. There are tools out called Hold-and-Folds that are supposed to be the wonder tools of PE, so you might check into these. Items that are to be rounded are usually bent around objects that you happen to have around the house to get them to conform to the shape you want them to be.
Also heard of some folks annealing the pieces before doing their bending. Never have done this yet, but I hear it works pretty good for some items.
Be very gentle in the weathering and dry brushing dept., as super glue will stick just about anything together, but any type of tapping a little too hard from the side can break them off, usually never to be seen again in this dimension.
And lots and lots of practice. Remember, you don't have to use absolutely everthing on the sheet. Just the things you what and feel comfortable in doing as your skills progress.
Good luck and take care, sgirty
raycel
New York, United States
Joined: June 22, 2003
KitMaker: 43 posts
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Joined: June 22, 2003
KitMaker: 43 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 - 12:55 AM UTC
Hey,
Thanks for the input! I am grateful for the sharing of ideas.
Ray
Thanks for the input! I am grateful for the sharing of ideas.
Ray