Hi guys

I cant yet afford an airbrush setup and so i'm looking into alternative techniques. I want to get that very soft look (or the closest thing to it) and also avoid brush strokes. So far a dabbing technique with a light load of paint seems logical.
What are your thoughts?

Thank you in advance.

Have a look in the features section of this website mate, there are heaps of "How too's" that deal with Oils , enamels and acrylics and how to paint with them sans airbrush.

Basically light loads of paint and dabbing for the Oils and several coats of thinned paint for acrylics.

I only have the most rudimentary airbrush which I use for base coating and not must else everything else is the brush.

My technique is still pretty much "beginner" but it is 1000 times better than it was before I read the articles in the Kitmaker network.

What are you building atm ?

Thanks for the great pointers scott im going straight to the features section. At the moment im busy on a 1/35 M270 MLRS. What are you building?

Right at this very minute I am sitting in the desert building an LNG pipeline BUT when I return home to the important work I'll be finishing off my Centurion and Soldiers for the Vietnam Campaign.

After that I am thinking an A-20 for the Pin-Ups Campaign then maybe a Sci-Fi Figure sculpt.

I've had very good results hand brushing Modelmaster and Pollyscale. The keys are long strokes and an artists quality brush

Thanks lukiftian

I was actually wondering about model masters i have two bottles that i haven't used yet. I'm guessing you're using a large brush with light coats right? And do you have any preferences in terms of primers?

I like the Tamiya one, but I know a lot of fellows just go for large cans of auto paint primer. Much cheaper and just as good I am told.

Hi Jonathan,

I paint all with rattle can (generally Tamiya) and brush. I use an automotive black matt spray or the Tamiya grey primer as my first coat. Then I hit it with the relevant colours Tamiya rattlecan. As long as you keep to the hard edged camo patterns you should be fine.

Have a look at the photos in my gallery as they are all of models painted this way.

Happy modelling

Jon

Johnathan;
I agree with the previous posts. Read the forum posts and how to's and if you really cannot afford an airbrush, go with the spray can, just go easy. I used to do all of my equipment and figure painting with a brush and still do to some extent. But having an airbrush is the way to go and there are some GREAT deals on ebay. Even a Paasche H is a great way to start, I still have mine and uses it for larger less critical jobs, still works great. Good luck! Cheers.

Hey Jonathan,

Just a quick little tip that I learnt from somewhere that works really well for hand painting.
Have a little tray or cup of thinners for the medium your working with next to your paint. Start by dipping your brush in the thinners, wipe off the excess then dip into your paint. Apply the paint to the model and dip your brush into the thinners every now and then especially when you see brush strokes. The thinners helps with the flow from the brush and reduces the brush marks.
As for the feathering or soft edges your going to be hard pressed to achieve that effect with a brush as it tends more to the hard edge lines.
Have fun with it and remember that everyone starts with brushes first and you still need them even if you have an airbrush. Even though I have 3 airbrushes I still love painting with the brushes.
Cheers, John

Wow thanks for all the great tips and advice guys. I shall experiment with all of your methods. I have a 1/35 Merkava 4 on the way that's begging for a good paint job.

Generally it's the quality of the brush, rather than the width, but I've found brights the best for overall painting, with round coming in second and flats last. Before I had an airbrush myself I also used watercolour pencils to soften the edges and to provide other effects. I seldom use primers but I liked Tamiya primer when I did use it.

Hey Jonathan
Good to see another Saffa on the site - I am as well but I live in Brisbane:)
That Merkava will be great because as a single base colour vehicle you can hit it with rattle can and then use oils, filters and washes to break up the single colour.
Is it the Academy kit? Just go slow on the ball and chains and you will be fine.
Cheers
Jon

I do not own an airbrush so I use a variation of different brands of spray paint. From Tamiya to auto rattle cans.

Things to watch out for:

1. Don't spray too heavy. Light coats.

2. Spray in one direction at a time. Don't zig-zag. If you spray from left to right continue until you complete the surface.

3. You could use a oil spatter device like you use in the kitchen when frying a steak or something. This helps to reduce the amount of paint that lands on the surface.

4. Prime your models before spraying. Nothing strange.

5. Tamiyas are nice sprays but they cost a lot and what you get for the price it is rediculous. The cans are so small. Sure it works for them, they make more money.

6. Like someone said in an ealier post, camos are the hardest to achive but it can be done. It is just going to take more work. But avoid it if it is not a must.

My links to all models painted with rattle cans: http://armorama.com//features/2705

Hi Jonathan,

If you have access to acrylic guoache colours (e.g. Turner) at your LHS, that would be a very good alternative for brush painting, even for large area such as armour vehicles and tanks. The extra matt finish and almost stroke-free result should fit your bill.


Paul

Thanks again for the awesome advise everyone.

Hey Jon
how long have you been living over there for? Right now we having a really beautiful South African Summer. I am indeed building the academy kit it's the LIC version of the mk 4. Oh and that's a very nice STRYKER you built there.

Thanks for the Stella tips there Charles. Im really impressed with your level of work. I love that MLRS Im also building one of those at the moment.

Kevin
what do you mean when you say bright i haven't hard that term with brushes before. Do you have any recommendations in terms of manufacturer and the kind of bristles eg sable, hog hair etc?

Paul
I think i have some of those in the cupboard somewhere i'm really interested in that technique so ill give it a shot foreshore.