Hi,
Can anyone help me and let me know how many track links should be on a Pzkpfw.IV H (Sept-Nov version).
Thanks
Toby
Hosted by Darren Baker
How many track links on a Pzkpfw.IV Ausf H
toby2282
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 01, 2011 - 09:49 PM UTC
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Friday, December 02, 2011 - 12:03 AM UTC
Hi Toby,
There were 99 links (Kgs 61/400/120) per track on the Pz IV F through J. This is the 40 cm wide track "as new" from the factory with the idler wheel adjusted at a neutral position.
(BTW: Before that, there were 101 links per track for the Ausf. A through E. This was for the 36 cm wide track.)
The DML instructions specify 99 links for their Magic Track, which matches the "as new" factory specification. If you're uisng Fruil tracks, then all bets are off, but 99 should be a good starting point.
Keep in mind that the DML Magic Track will "shrink" along its length as the glue dries. If you can, keep the idler wheel axles loose until after the track has dried. This will help keep the amount of track sag you mold into the track between the road wheels from tightening out as the track dries. The drying track will pull the idler wheel forward instead of pulling the sag out.
Obviously, if you're using Fruils, then this doesn't apply. You then need to adjust the ilder position to get the desired track sag and then glue the idler axel in position.
However, I'd submit that you should prioritize the way the track looks on your model project rather than worry about the precise number of links per the factory specification. Adjust the lenght to get the tracks where they look right even if that number is a link or two more or less than 99.
The crew on the real vehicle was only concerned about having the correct track tension so as to not throw or break the track. This was accomplished by measuring track sag and adjusting the idler wheel's position and not by counting the number of links. When the idler wheel couldn't be adjusted any more to compensate for track and suspension wear, the crew then simply removed a link and re-adjusted the idler. Within reason, the number of links was inconsequential to the process.
HTH,
There were 99 links (Kgs 61/400/120) per track on the Pz IV F through J. This is the 40 cm wide track "as new" from the factory with the idler wheel adjusted at a neutral position.
(BTW: Before that, there were 101 links per track for the Ausf. A through E. This was for the 36 cm wide track.)
The DML instructions specify 99 links for their Magic Track, which matches the "as new" factory specification. If you're uisng Fruil tracks, then all bets are off, but 99 should be a good starting point.
Keep in mind that the DML Magic Track will "shrink" along its length as the glue dries. If you can, keep the idler wheel axles loose until after the track has dried. This will help keep the amount of track sag you mold into the track between the road wheels from tightening out as the track dries. The drying track will pull the idler wheel forward instead of pulling the sag out.
Obviously, if you're using Fruils, then this doesn't apply. You then need to adjust the ilder position to get the desired track sag and then glue the idler axel in position.
However, I'd submit that you should prioritize the way the track looks on your model project rather than worry about the precise number of links per the factory specification. Adjust the lenght to get the tracks where they look right even if that number is a link or two more or less than 99.
The crew on the real vehicle was only concerned about having the correct track tension so as to not throw or break the track. This was accomplished by measuring track sag and adjusting the idler wheel's position and not by counting the number of links. When the idler wheel couldn't be adjusted any more to compensate for track and suspension wear, the crew then simply removed a link and re-adjusted the idler. Within reason, the number of links was inconsequential to the process.
HTH,
toby2282
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Friday, December 02, 2011 - 12:08 AM UTC
Mike,
Thanks for the quick reply. I am using Fruils but I want to glue the ends of as many links as possible. I'll start by gluing 95 links and leaving 5 unglued so that I can adjust the track tension.
Cheers
Toby
Thanks for the quick reply. I am using Fruils but I want to glue the ends of as many links as possible. I'll start by gluing 95 links and leaving 5 unglued so that I can adjust the track tension.
Cheers
Toby
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Friday, December 02, 2011 - 03:35 AM UTC
Why are you gluing Fruil links?
toby2282
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Friday, December 02, 2011 - 03:53 AM UTC
I'm not. I meant the end where the wire pokes out. Means I can prepare 95% of the track (painted and weathered) and just touch up the last few links.
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Friday, December 02, 2011 - 04:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm not. I meant the end where the wire pokes out. Means I can prepare 95% of the track (painted and weathered) and just touch up the last few links.
In the past, I've test fit Fruils during construction so I know the correct number of links. Then paint and weather separately, and then they typically are one of the last items I add to the model.
If you want to do the whole thing before, I would suggest doing MORE than needed and then taking them out as needed, rather than trying to add a couple links and then painting and weathering them and hope they match.
Good luck.
toby2282
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Joined: July 15, 2005
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 112 posts
Posted: Friday, December 02, 2011 - 04:39 AM UTC
Along with the antenna they are the very last thing to be added. It was just a rough idea of links required to be painted and weathered before I take any off.