Can anyone help me with the following questions ?

- I was wondering if I could use the M1A1 engine set from legend for the new Revell/Monogram M1A2 ?
- Are there major differences in the interior between the M1A1 and the M1A2 ?
- How accurate is the Revell/Monigram M1A2 ?

Thanks in advance,
Marc

The engines are close enough so that you will be safe.

Problem is that the "back deck" (the removeable portion of the top rear hull) is done incorrectly. There are several grills molded to the upper hull that should be a part of the back deck. The walls in the engine bay of the M1A2 kit (if the Revell M1A2 is the same one as the Italeri kit) are entirely ficticious.

If the back deck/engine bay inaccuracy doesn't bother you, then the engine itself shouldn't.

There are major differences in the computers used in the A1 and A2. The only computer in the A1 worth mentioning is the ballistics computer the gunner uses. The A2 however has a complete digital pakage with numerous MFD's (mutli-function displays) for the Tank Commander and for the gunner. The driver also has digital displays in the A2 as opposed to the analog quages in the A1. The main computers under the gun breach are different as well. There is also equipment for the CITV system in front of the loaders station. Other than these, there are no major changes in the interior equipment.

(the other) Rob

Rob can probably confirm this being right, otherwise he can oppose to this and I can hide in shame...

The Revell/Italeri kit seems to be accurate, except for the things Rob already mentioned..
If you want to build the new SEP version, there should be some things to be added, like the new "under armour APU"..

You are correct that the current Revell/Italeri M1A2 represents and earlier "Non-SEP" variant. I am not familiar with the M1A2SEP enough to be able to spell out all the necessary modifications needed to bring an M1A2 to M1A2SEP standards. My actual M1A2 time is limited to a one week rollover course several years ago. I don't try to sell myself off as a "self-styled" Abrams expert. I just have a little more familiarity on the family of vehicles than your average modeler. I have submitted several changes to the Abrams technical manuals that have carried through the entire line of tank manuals though.

I was planning on removing the walls of the kit since the Legend update kit provides a (as far I know) complete engine and engine compartment. In the Legend kit several other grills are included as well as a new back deck. See the following link: http://www.www-legend.co.kr/bbs/zboard.php?id=Accessory&page=4&select_arrange=headnum&desc=asc&category=&sn=off&ss=on&sc=on&keyword=&sn1=&divpage=1#

Does this mean I can build an accurate M1A2 with engine ? BTW can I use the battery parts of the VP update set for the M1A1 ?

Thanks in advance,
Marc

This set looks good. The forward engine access panel (affectionately called the b*tch plate because of its difficulty in replacing) looks like it is still not modeled. It would be removed prior to any attempt to pull the deck or lift the pack and would be the last thing replaced after finishing up any engine work. The compartment looks very good as well, the engine doesn't quite look right though. The large duct covering would be unpainted aluminum.

Pictures are found in my motor pool accessable at the link in my signature block. Let me know if there is or isn't a photo of the access panel and I'll see if I can take a shot of one today.

I happened to be looking at the two last night for the exact same reason. The answer is yes, but it will take some doing. The Revell (Italeri) engine bay is completely innacurate and would be better removed and replaced with the Legends one. You have three major areas of concern.

1. The side of the hull is an armor plate welded to other armor plates. Right between the engine and the battery box,just above the rear sprocket bearing and support, there is a cut-out section in the plate where the hull was extended outward about 4 inches on both sides. The Legends set has a piece to replicate this which must be used as the Legends engine box is actually slightly too narrow. The piece that goes there is too thick to allow the use of the Verlinden battery.

2. The Legends Engine set and the Verlinden Battery have rudundant pieces. The problem is that the legends one has better postition but isn't very accurate. The Verlinden pieces are more accurate, but only have the upper half of the detail.

3.The wall between the battery box and the engine bay has to be left in place to be accurate, but needs a hole cut in it for wires to pass through.

This is not an easy thing but with a little skill and scrathbuilding, you should be okay. If you need to scratchbuild the wall between the two bays, use .030 styrene. If you need any more help, don't hesitate to ask, I have pictures that might help, but uploading them is very time intensive as I am on dial-up, but if I can help, I will try.




See TanxHeaven for some of Kees' pics of the engine.