Hello Everyone
My first post here....hope you can help me....I am in the process of completing Sherman...I'm using Friulmodel white metal tracks, and not sure how to start the painting process. Most of the time I build German armor, and it appears, after reading several articles, that the basecoat (flat black or gun metal) I use won't do here. I normally use a raw umber or the like to begin the weathering process followed by pigments or pastels to finish up...Any suggestion on how to get the weathered look and still keep some black on the "rubber" treads?
Thanks
Trenchfoot 1*
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
painting and weathering metal tracks
Trenchfoot
Joined: December 11, 2011
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 12:11 PM UTC
MLD
Joined: July 21, 2002
KitMaker: 3,569 posts
Armorama: 2,070 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 12:55 PM UTC
I don't do allied armor, but to get the weathered metal look on Fruil tracks many people , myself included, use a model railroad product called Blacken-it.
I get mine at hobby shows or from Micro-Mark.
Build the runds of track and soak them in the blacken-it for a few minutes.
I like to roll them one way, then reverse them for the second half of the time.
Be careful, if left too long it will damage the track
As for getting/keeping the pads black, I would guess you have to paint afterwards.
I get mine at hobby shows or from Micro-Mark.
Build the runds of track and soak them in the blacken-it for a few minutes.
I like to roll them one way, then reverse them for the second half of the time.
Be careful, if left too long it will damage the track
As for getting/keeping the pads black, I would guess you have to paint afterwards.
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 12:55 PM UTC
I would paint the pads a very dark gray and the metal parts can be painted a rust color.The whole track including the pads can be weathered by dusting on the pigments and fixing them with thinner for a dusty look,or more heavily if you were weathering mud.
bravo04tango
Joined: May 26, 2011
KitMaker: 46 posts
Armorama: 40 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 01:11 PM UTC
I have found that a base coat of tamiyas NATO black followed by dry brushing and weathering works very well for me.
You could also go with a blackening agent followed by NATO black paint on the pads would work just as well.
Good luck and let's see some pictures!
You could also go with a blackening agent followed by NATO black paint on the pads would work just as well.
Good luck and let's see some pictures!
Trenchfoot
Joined: December 11, 2011
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 02:12 PM UTC
i'll try the Blacken it....I have heard you need to watch the amount of time you leave them in. Just so happens I have some NATO black on the shelf here, so I may give that a whirl as well. i will attempt to post some pics....I'm an old dog and it may take me a bit to figure that out on this site. Again gentlemen...thanks for the advise...
Trenchfoot 1*
Trenchfoot 1*
vonHengest
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
Armorama: 4,817 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 03:19 PM UTC
Ken, you don't need to use any kind of agent on the friuls if you don't want to. Blacken It is very potent and you will definitely have to keep an eye on it.
That said, there is no reason that you can't just paint them. One of the nice effects you get when weathering them this way is that the paint tends to get rubbed off in the appropriate areas while being handled and flexed.
Do whatever you feel comfortable with, it's hard to go wrong with these
That said, there is no reason that you can't just paint them. One of the nice effects you get when weathering them this way is that the paint tends to get rubbed off in the appropriate areas while being handled and flexed.
Do whatever you feel comfortable with, it's hard to go wrong with these
Trenchfoot
Joined: December 11, 2011
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Friday, December 16, 2011 - 12:37 PM UTC
Thanks Jeremy...sorry for the late response, been traveling and just got home...glad for the weekend!! i was thinking a base of flat black and just go from there with washes and pigments. may just a bit of dry brusing. I may create too much work for myself with metal tracks, but I like the way they look, and love building them. Hope to post some pics soon.
keep your head down
Trenchfoot 1*
keep your head down
Trenchfoot 1*
airborne1
Joined: April 15, 2006
KitMaker: 915 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Friday, December 16, 2011 - 01:45 PM UTC
Hi Ken,
I've been a big fan of using fruil tracks and I find the best starter for the track is to prime it with Humbrol primer No 1 or Modelmaster primer.
Let it sit for a day and paint with a Humrol track colour 160.Thats if you use enamels .The Reason why the primer is used is that when the second coat is applied it can take any wear and tear with washes and drybrushing .
With some tracks I also seal with a testors dulcote to seal everything in.
brief Examples
I dry brush using humbrol metalcote
End result
Michael
I've been a big fan of using fruil tracks and I find the best starter for the track is to prime it with Humbrol primer No 1 or Modelmaster primer.
Let it sit for a day and paint with a Humrol track colour 160.Thats if you use enamels .The Reason why the primer is used is that when the second coat is applied it can take any wear and tear with washes and drybrushing .
With some tracks I also seal with a testors dulcote to seal everything in.
brief Examples
I dry brush using humbrol metalcote
End result
Michael
Trenchfoot
Joined: December 11, 2011
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Friday, December 16, 2011 - 11:37 PM UTC
Michael
Thanks...that's the color i'm looking for. The photos help. This was the first allied armor kit I have done. My concern was taking away from the rubber pads and trying to figure out how to keep a "black" tint to them without painting them individually. The base coat you used is perfect. I'm thinking about doing that, letting it dry completely, and then spraying flat black or tire black on artist paper and rolling the tracks through that to pick up the black on the pads, then complete the weathering. I think I worry too much about the tracks...they have been sitting in my spray booth for about two weeks while I got up enough nerve to spray them.
thanks for the response
Ken
(Trenchfoot 1*)
Thanks...that's the color i'm looking for. The photos help. This was the first allied armor kit I have done. My concern was taking away from the rubber pads and trying to figure out how to keep a "black" tint to them without painting them individually. The base coat you used is perfect. I'm thinking about doing that, letting it dry completely, and then spraying flat black or tire black on artist paper and rolling the tracks through that to pick up the black on the pads, then complete the weathering. I think I worry too much about the tracks...they have been sitting in my spray booth for about two weeks while I got up enough nerve to spray them.
thanks for the response
Ken
(Trenchfoot 1*)
SdAufKla
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 02:39 AM UTC
Hey Ken,
If you haven't gotten enough ideas already, here's another one:
Spray the tracks with the NATO black (either primed or not depending on how rough you are handling such things).
The cut strips of blue masking tape for the inside and outsides. Mask the rubber parts with the tape.
Then paint the end connectors with your rust colors. The inside faces of the end connectors can either be worn with steel wool, sand paper or dry-brushed with your favorite mettalic siver for a worn effoect.
Then remove then masking tape and weather using your favorite techniques. (I tend to use a lot of pigments for this.)
This might be easier than going rust all over then trying to paint the rubber track blocks individually.
Happy modeling!
PS: Don't forget that the idler wheels, return rollers and track skids on Shermans are all metal.
If you haven't gotten enough ideas already, here's another one:
Spray the tracks with the NATO black (either primed or not depending on how rough you are handling such things).
The cut strips of blue masking tape for the inside and outsides. Mask the rubber parts with the tape.
Then paint the end connectors with your rust colors. The inside faces of the end connectors can either be worn with steel wool, sand paper or dry-brushed with your favorite mettalic siver for a worn effoect.
Then remove then masking tape and weather using your favorite techniques. (I tend to use a lot of pigments for this.)
This might be easier than going rust all over then trying to paint the rubber track blocks individually.
Happy modeling!
PS: Don't forget that the idler wheels, return rollers and track skids on Shermans are all metal.
pseudorealityx
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 03:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hey Ken,
If you haven't gotten enough ideas already, here's another one:
Spray the tracks with the NATO black (either primed or not depending on how rough you are handling such things).
The cut strips of blue masking tape for the inside and outsides. Mask the rubber parts with the tape.
Then paint the end connectors with your rust colors. The inside faces of the end connectors can either be worn with steel wool, sand paper or dry-brushed with your favorite mettalic siver for a worn effoect.
Then remove then masking tape and weather using your favorite techniques. (I tend to use a lot of pigments for this.)
This might be easier than going rust all over then trying to paint the rubber track blocks individually.
Happy modeling!
PS: Don't forget that the idler wheels, return rollers and track skids on Shermans are all metal.
This is what I do with Sherman and other rubber pad tracks. Paint all black/dark grey, then mask the pads with long strips, and then pain the metal sections steel/metallic brown/rusty/whatever. You'll likely have to touch up the black/dark grey rubber at the end of your build to make sure you don't have any white metal showing since those parts were rubber.
Trenchfoot
Joined: December 11, 2011
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 05:12 AM UTC
Mike / Jesse
Those tips are perfect. Writing everything down for future use. I hope to post some pics here soon for some helpful hints on what I have done wrong on this build. Been out of the hobby for a while and just getting back into it. A lot has changed...but...I just built a room with big bench in the basement that's all my own. ALL MINE....so now i have space, and peace...that will help a bunch...i hope.
again guys....thank you so much...
Ken
(Trenchfoot 1*)
Those tips are perfect. Writing everything down for future use. I hope to post some pics here soon for some helpful hints on what I have done wrong on this build. Been out of the hobby for a while and just getting back into it. A lot has changed...but...I just built a room with big bench in the basement that's all my own. ALL MINE....so now i have space, and peace...that will help a bunch...i hope.
again guys....thank you so much...
Ken
(Trenchfoot 1*)
Trenchfoot
Joined: December 11, 2011
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 18, 2011 - 10:41 AM UTC
Guys
If anyone who posted is out there, I finished the Sherman tracks. I painted them NATO black and let them cure, then a heavy wash rust wash. Then, since can't find my pigments....just moved and they are in a box somewhere, or my wife threw them out....I used pastels to weather....light and dark browns mixed with umber...I did this heavy, and then too a damp...not wet...Q-Tip, and gently wiped off the rubber pads. I think they look good....
again, thanks for all your tips.......
If anyone who posted is out there, I finished the Sherman tracks. I painted them NATO black and let them cure, then a heavy wash rust wash. Then, since can't find my pigments....just moved and they are in a box somewhere, or my wife threw them out....I used pastels to weather....light and dark browns mixed with umber...I did this heavy, and then too a damp...not wet...Q-Tip, and gently wiped off the rubber pads. I think they look good....
again, thanks for all your tips.......
 |
WEB HOSTING BY
Copyright ©2021 Armorama and Kitmaker Network, a subsidiary of Silver Star Enterprises
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.