AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Correct Wash for Winter Whitewash
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 01:55 AM UTC
I'm intending to give my pz.IV a whitewash. It will be depicted as operating in Russian during late fall/early winter. What color would be appropriate for the weathering wash over the whitewash?
scratchmod
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: November 07, 2008
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 02:11 AM UTC
For a W / W you want to stay away from a very dark wash. You can build up layers using a dark brown until you are happy with it. I usually mix my wash between a filter and a wash and apply a few layers varying in areas. I make some areas darker where it would have collected dirt and dust. By making some areas darker and others lighter it will add some dimension to the model apposed to everything having a dark wash.
Hope this helps.
Rob
Hope this helps.
Rob
scratchmod
Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 02:20 AM UTC
You can also use the AK dark streaking grime for a wash too. In fact any of their products can be used for filters and washes. I used the DAK wash on my W /W on the ISU 152
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 04:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
You can also use the AK dark streaking grime for a wash too. In fact any of their products can be used for filters and washes. I used the DAK wash on my W /W on the ISU 152
Blasphemy...
Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 05:20 AM UTC
I used Mig Cold Grey Wash and Light Wash on mine, I did do some very selective pin washes with Mig Dark and Vallejo Brown Shade Wash.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 06:12 AM UTC
I was considering a light grey or blue grey wash. The whitewash would be over MM schwartzgrau; so, I'm assuming I would need to base it off of that. I may try the Mig cold grey wash, as it sounds the most feasible.
Dark brown doesn't seem to be correct for a white wash. I use it for greens and yellows, but can't believe it would be apropriate for a WW.
Dark brown doesn't seem to be correct for a white wash. I use it for greens and yellows, but can't believe it would be apropriate for a WW.
Mig_Jimenez
La Rioja, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: October 29, 2003
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Joined: October 29, 2003
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Armorama: 188 posts
Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 06:15 AM UTC
Hello:
I am right now working in a Winter Tiger I in 1/48, and I am adding in my blog the whole step by step. Maybe it can help you a bit, specially to see the results.
Like Rob, I also use the DAK wash. The winter Streaking Grime could be also another good color for it:
(the model is underprocess of paint, not finished yet, of course!)
Click here to see the article:
WINTERWASH
I am right now working in a Winter Tiger I in 1/48, and I am adding in my blog the whole step by step. Maybe it can help you a bit, specially to see the results.
Like Rob, I also use the DAK wash. The winter Streaking Grime could be also another good color for it:
(the model is underprocess of paint, not finished yet, of course!)
Click here to see the article:
WINTERWASH
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
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Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 06:25 AM UTC
Always good to hear from you Mig. Your page is extremely helpful. Would I be able to achieve the same streaking effect using water colors? I ask, because that is what I normally use for my pin washes.
Mig_Jimenez
La Rioja, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: October 29, 2003
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 06:43 AM UTC
hello and thank you.
Well, Not with all water colors you can achieve stumped streaking lines. Example, the Lifecolor or vallejo are very difficult to blend or stump because they dry very fast and once it is dry is almost impossible to do something with them.
If you use any other kind of soluble water colors, like gouaches, maybe you can achive something similar.
Try it please....and share what you made with us. Could be great to see another way.
Well, Not with all water colors you can achieve stumped streaking lines. Example, the Lifecolor or vallejo are very difficult to blend or stump because they dry very fast and once it is dry is almost impossible to do something with them.
If you use any other kind of soluble water colors, like gouaches, maybe you can achive something similar.
Try it please....and share what you made with us. Could be great to see another way.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
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Joined: March 06, 2010
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 07:32 AM UTC
Matt:
1) I'm pretty much with Mig - certainly what he posted as a pic shows a lot of what I think could be a WW coat over camo.
2) I would have assumed that your Pz IV would come with a 2- or 3-color base paint scheme if it is a Kursk participant- not a straight dunkelgrau... and IF you do go with the 2 or 3-color scheme, getting a "crappy, blotchy white coat" like Mig has portrayed would seem pretty appropriate.
3) "washes, filters?" I would pop a pic up of my recent Wirbelwind w/ zimm and tricolor and "broomed-on whitewash" as a example of how I think it went - but seems I cannot access My Photos right now...
There are lots of different examples and looks out there showing WW...! Some really white (yeap- many pics showing newly applied WW jobs and really really white tanks), all the way to you could hardly tell that there was any white mud-balls. Gotta decide where in that range you want to fall!
About the one thing I really don't consider doing to a WW coat is any sort of broad filter or wash, per se. The whitewash went on pretty darned white! Apply it thick or thin or very thin, smooth and "entire" or worn and blotchy - I would let the WW coat do all of the initial work to show the broad level of completeness - or not - that you wish to show - On my Wirbelwind, I wanted to show a faded tricolor with a newly-added patch-work WW coat "broomed-on" by the crew. My approach was to actually streak on some well-thinned Tamiya white acryl and alternating some MM white enamel - both thinned with a fairly stiff little brush. My aim was to make it look streaky as if it had been slapped-on with a straw broom (provided on the build, of course!), so I was not looking for good coverage nor a solid coat, but rather large blotches, streaks, thin and thick places showing the camo thru, etc. As I actually wanted it to look like a fairly-recent WW job, I did not dirty hardly any of the white- just a little road-dust from the "most recent travel" and I used the flat earth and followed with some mixed pastel chalks to get that. I did a mars black pin oil wash to line details and make sure some things emerged from the white, but NO over-all washes to broadly alter the white coat.
So- maybe think that route - weather your base coat, whatever it is, apply your WW with "malice-aforethought" to capture what level of wear or not, do some detailing pin washes just to bring out your details, and then weather / dirty the whole build just as you would for any camo job.
Just my opines and suggestions!
Cheers!
Bob
1) I'm pretty much with Mig - certainly what he posted as a pic shows a lot of what I think could be a WW coat over camo.
2) I would have assumed that your Pz IV would come with a 2- or 3-color base paint scheme if it is a Kursk participant- not a straight dunkelgrau... and IF you do go with the 2 or 3-color scheme, getting a "crappy, blotchy white coat" like Mig has portrayed would seem pretty appropriate.
3) "washes, filters?" I would pop a pic up of my recent Wirbelwind w/ zimm and tricolor and "broomed-on whitewash" as a example of how I think it went - but seems I cannot access My Photos right now...
There are lots of different examples and looks out there showing WW...! Some really white (yeap- many pics showing newly applied WW jobs and really really white tanks), all the way to you could hardly tell that there was any white mud-balls. Gotta decide where in that range you want to fall!
About the one thing I really don't consider doing to a WW coat is any sort of broad filter or wash, per se. The whitewash went on pretty darned white! Apply it thick or thin or very thin, smooth and "entire" or worn and blotchy - I would let the WW coat do all of the initial work to show the broad level of completeness - or not - that you wish to show - On my Wirbelwind, I wanted to show a faded tricolor with a newly-added patch-work WW coat "broomed-on" by the crew. My approach was to actually streak on some well-thinned Tamiya white acryl and alternating some MM white enamel - both thinned with a fairly stiff little brush. My aim was to make it look streaky as if it had been slapped-on with a straw broom (provided on the build, of course!), so I was not looking for good coverage nor a solid coat, but rather large blotches, streaks, thin and thick places showing the camo thru, etc. As I actually wanted it to look like a fairly-recent WW job, I did not dirty hardly any of the white- just a little road-dust from the "most recent travel" and I used the flat earth and followed with some mixed pastel chalks to get that. I did a mars black pin oil wash to line details and make sure some things emerged from the white, but NO over-all washes to broadly alter the white coat.
So- maybe think that route - weather your base coat, whatever it is, apply your WW with "malice-aforethought" to capture what level of wear or not, do some detailing pin washes just to bring out your details, and then weather / dirty the whole build just as you would for any camo job.
Just my opines and suggestions!
Cheers!
Bob
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 09:46 AM UTC
I've done a WW on a Hornice, recently. I painted the kit Tamiya dark yellow, doused it with hairspray, then airbrushed a thinned Tamiya white. After that, I went at with a toothbrush. It's turned fairly well, but I was stuck on what color wash to use.
With the Pz.IV, it looks like I will be weathering dark earth tones. And, I will be using a light grey for shadows. I have a tube of Windsor&Newton raw umber oil paint, but haven't the jingle bells to try it yet. Looks like my practice kit can look forward to a WW.
With the Pz.IV, it looks like I will be weathering dark earth tones. And, I will be using a light grey for shadows. I have a tube of Windsor&Newton raw umber oil paint, but haven't the jingle bells to try it yet. Looks like my practice kit can look forward to a WW.
imatanker
Maine, United States
Joined: February 11, 2011
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Joined: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 12:44 PM UTC
Mig,You mention satin varnish as a sealer.I assume it is acrylic?Thanks,Jeff
Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 02:05 PM UTC
I have to agree with Mig, as the master. But I find the Vallejo wash don't flow as much and make good pin washes with a very fine brush. I did this around some bolts and parts to add a little contrast to the white, representing mud that would accumulate from boots in the spring and/or warmer winter days, as most would wash off, I still figured there would be a little residue left.
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
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Joined: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Monday, December 19, 2011 - 02:18 PM UTC
I'm not planning on my kit to be quite so worn. It will only have had the WW on for a week or two and would not have been in combat, yet. At least, not since it recieved its WW.