Hey all,

When I made my T-34 model I used an effect I thought of for making it look chipped/rusted. (This is probably already a technique but I have never heard of it)

I first painted the whole model (or the areas one wants chipped/rusted) with a rust-coloured paint. I then put the basecoat (in this case green) and then let it dry. I put on the decals and then sealed it with a layer of dull coat (Originally, my thought was that this would protect everything when I did the turpentine/oil paint wash) However, when I started the wash, the base coat started to come off a little. At first I was a little ticked, but then I really liked the weathers effect it gave my model. Depending on how much cipped effect one wants one adds a more or less turpentine to the model. Anyways, here are some pictures of how it turned out. Enjoy! Any question please ask.

-Joe

That's pretty interesting Joe!

Could you provide some more details on the brands of paints that you used, the mixing formulas and paint-thinner ratios, what you used for thinners, and your method(s) of application?

How long did you wait between coats of paint and the washes? And what was the brand of turps that you used? (Turpenoid = W&N, Grumbacher, etc?)

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks. And sure!


PAINTING:
The rust coloured paint actually was not any model brand paint. I used Rust-oleum Painter's Touch Satin paint. The color is called Paprika. (I am almost positive any other paint will work too. I painted the whole model in paprika (you can also just color the areas you want affected). I let that dry. Next, I sprayed Tamiya AS-23 Luftwaffe Light Green everywhere and covered the paprika color. I then applied my decals and put on two layers of Testors Dullcoat. I then let that dry. ALL THESE LAYERS WERE APPLIED WITHIN 15-20 MINUTES OF EACH OTHER That is just because that's how I work. Doing it the next day will NOT change anything.

WASH:

For the wash I took Winsor and Newton Lamp Black oil paint. I then mixed it with Klean-Strip Pure Gum Spirits Turpintine. I did not use a specific amount. I did not measure it, I just eyeballed it. I then just brushed it on in downward strokes and if I brushed it enough, then the green would start coming off and expose the rust color. And that's it! Hope this helps. If you need any more clarification or have any questions just ask.

-Joe

Joe your rusting technique looks good,I like the textured flaking look.your overall work is looking good too.Just one tip be careful with overdoing the rust effect,Soviet tanks especially often weren't around long enough to rust up,but that is up to you and the technique looks great.

I wouldn't do main vehicle areas too rusty,when they are in service.
Armor in WW2 had a pretty short life and even when they were dirty and dusty,there wasn´t too much rust on it.

On the chipping areas i would work with a darkbrown,blackbrown or something like that-that´s the first color iron get´s when its oxiditing. Actually iron in service is never bright-rust-red.
But you can use red-rust color for fading strikes of rust,when tiny rust particles are fading down the rustareas