like the title states, does anyone make em? I could swear I saw some by somebody..Friuls maybe?

Several manufacturers make them. To name the ones I know, OKB GRIGOROV, PART. I am sure there are more but these are the ones that come in mind.

ACE includes PE tracks in some of their models like the RSO.

Note that all the above are not white metal tracks but PE tracks. These are very thin and need glueing and folding. I have not made any and the seem like quite a task to build.

There is no such thing like Fruil in 1/72 yet as far as I know.


P.A.

Hi Tim

VOYAGER makes a 1/72 scale set of metal tracks for a T-34 from brass. Each link has to be folded, and joined with a piece of wire (like a track pin)

This would be a fair bit of work, but the end result would be fully workable tracks, the only ones I know of like this in 1/72 scale

I have a set of these, have yet to build them, for a future project.


EDUARD make 1/72 scale Pz Kpfw III tracks in metal etch, these look to be very detailed,& also require some folding and come in 4 lengths, with 3 shorter lengths, possibly for use as spares

EDUARD also does similar tracks for a Cromwell IV (4 long lengths)

PART makes metal tracks in etch for Panzer III & Panzer IV, 4 lengths, also folding required

PART also makes metal tracks for Vickers 6t, 7TP, T-26, BT-5, BT-7, T-34, T-34 500mm UTZM early, & T-34 500mm UTZM late tracks , also come in 4 long lengths, folding required.

There may be other manufacturers and tracks in metal in 1/72 scale, but these are all I know of

HTH

cheers
Neil

Still I don't think that their weight is enough to produce a natural sag like the Fruil do. Some feedback from someone that has already used PE tracks would be useful.

P.A.

those PE tracks just dont sound fun at all. Ive been having a blast with the latest Dragon offerings, but then I get to the tracks and the joy is just ripped away when I see theyre too long, even with the idler wheels set back. I know Friul started making 48th scale sets, I was hoping theyed venture into the 72nd too.

Hello

Regarding the Voyager tracks. True they dont have much weight, but each link is joined to the next by a track pin which is not glued, like a real set of tracks is, which means lots of free play up and down between each link, so getting realistic sag should be much easier to obtain than with polystyrene link and length, DS track, or photo etch track.

Regarding photo etch track. I have used it 3 times. Because it comes flat, you need to use the tip of a modelling knife to make it three dimensional, to stand up the track guides etc. This is not as hard as it sounds.

The most important thing with the etch track is to heat it to red hot, then let it cool naturally before trying to bend it into shape. I hold mine with a set of pliers over a gas burner on the stove. This takes the stiffness out of the metal and allows more natural curves to be made.

With PE tracks you usually get 2 lengths for each side. Before putting the lengths on your model pre bend one to as close to the right shape as possible, then test fit, and if not sitting exactly right take it off and bend a bit more and try again, until it sits nearly perfectly. This is important and will save you a lot of trouble, and get you the best result.

Don't do the bends around the front and rear sprockets by applying direct to the sprockets on your model. I've found it better to find a piece of round tubing or pencil of the same diameter as the sprocket and smoothly wrap the track around that first, to pre shape it. You may also need to trim back teeth from sprockets (as can also happen with plastic track around sprocket teeth)

Lastly fasten the track with a little brush on liquid superglue, for a permanent fix. If you have preformed the track to the right shape, very little glue will be needed to join the tracks

I have found the above process to work best for me, others may have other methods that work equally well or better.

cheers
Neil

Hello

regarding the Voyager tracks.

I decided to have a go at assembling them, to see if they are fully workable as advertised, so this is maybe a 'mini review'.

Picture 1 below is of what comes in the pack, parts for tracks for one T-34 tank

The tracks assembled are indeed fully workable, each link hinges like the links on a non expandable watch band.

To assemble each link requires the folding of each link over to make a double thickness for each plate.

What is difficult to do well is to fold the etch connector into a rounded 'D' shape, each track link has 4 or 5 of these on each side, which means a lot of careful folding to make one link.

Then you need to hold them together and thread a piece of 0.30 wire through each 'D' shaped connector to hold the links together, so they can move up or down freely where they join.

The instructions did not show how to get neatly folded connecting points. I found by laying a piece of slightly thicker wire over the piece to be folded, and using the tip of a hobby knife to wrap the connectors around the wire results in neat even folds.

These tracks are quite beautiful, but are much more work than brass etch tracks, I think I could assemble a company of Dragon T-34s in the time it will take to assemble these tracks.

Below are a few links draped around my hobby knife, I still have to trim a few track pins, and superglue the track guide horns on the other side, onto every second link, that will be done last.

cheers
Neil

These tracks certainly look great. I'll try to post the OKB Grigorov I have.

P.A.