I need HELP I am building this Bergpanzer Tiger for the Support/Recovery campaign. I primed it with Rustoleum rattle can primer then I sprayed it with a can of Valspar spray paint that I had used in the past. Well the can got clogged and I had a Tamiya Rattle can so I sprayed over the Valspar with that

Now I have these hideous looking ripple marks all over my kit

I even tried to sand some of it off but it appears that effected the plastic

So how can I fix this mess

Strip the paint. Oven cleaner seems to be a popular choice.

Sal,
I have had paint problems in the past and what I did was to soak the model in Simple Green for a day or two and gently using an old tooth brush or the like and brush the paint off.
This works good with enamels and acrylics Hope this works for you.

Andy

Hi there,

I've tried 2 ways of getting off the paint.

One is done with this:

http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/files/mr_muscle_oven_cleaner_722.jpg

Mr musce Oven, I don't know if you have there this kind of product but it's essentially a chemical spray that makes foam. Put all the parts in a plastic bag, or a plastic container, than spray the foam onto the model and parts, put a lot of it, when you can't see the model anymore then is't good
Close the plastic bag or the container and wait, repeat the process if you see that the foam is transforming into liquid. Some paints like acrylics or can spray takes like 24 h to get off, enamels is off in like 30 min. Depending of the paint you will have to wait more or less. When you see that you can rub off the paint with your finger or an old toothbrush, then it's time to take the model on a warm bath and rub off gently the paint.

Another way is using brake oil (brake fluid for cars). You put the model in a plastic container, than put the fluid in it, so that the model is completely immersed, you will need maybe 1 to 2 liters, you can recycle the fluid and do it again for another model.


In the first method , with the foam, just be careful because I think that clear parts will become foggy. So remove it if you have one.

Bye and sorry for my English

Hey guys thanks for all the help and suggestions. Once I have the old paint off with what ever product I use to I rinse it off with water and re prime

yes, rub off the paint, wash the model with warm water and a little of dish wash soap, dry it well and re-paint it , or better put a coat of primer. If needed you can sand parts of the model with 1200-1500 grit paper to take off remaining paint.

+1 on the oven cleaner.


cheers

Oven cleaner or a soak in Simple Green, Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean

i dont know, i think some of it is a pretty cool texture, sun-baked rust and peeling sort of

+1 on this. I've used Purple Power full strength to take the chrome plating off 1/24 auto parts, so I don't see why it wouldn't strip the paint off your Berg.

Also, using some isopropyl alcohol (70% or better) works to get grease,etc off the model and evaporates. We have to use the 91% isopropyl alcohol at work since I work in a clean room. Stuff works like a champ on untreated/unpainted metal as well.

My guess is the plastic underneath should still be ok and only the paint layer(s) have rippled due to the differences in paint formulations...possibly.

Sal,

What you have in the paint is called crazing. It happens when the layer underneath is not dry yet, or when layers are incompatible, causing a layer to shrink and lift.
The safest way to strip this, and do it without scrubbing parts off, is to immerse the model in DOT 3 brake fluid. Leave it for a day or so, agitating it every once in a while to keep fresh fluid on the model and pull away paint.
When all the paint is gone, rinse gently in clear water (I use my kitchen sink sprayer) until the model is clean. Make sure you get everything out from the inside of the model.
To prep for paint, spray the model liberally with Windex, soaking the model. This will remove any mold release, skin oil, debris and dust without scrubbing the model or creating suds.
Rinse gently in water again to remove all Windex. Place in a partially open Tupperware to dry. Don't handle the model with bare hands again.
When cleaned with Windex, you don't need a primer unless you've done a lot of putty work and have to check continuity. Rattle cans put out a huge amount of paint and every coat makes the detail softer. I would suggest using only the color coat and applying it in light passes until you have a uniform base coat.