Hey all, after painting some really soft detailed tamiya infantry I got a little dissapointed, and had a pop at something a little crisper. Now usually I am no fan of plastc figures, although after this I may branch out. I'm looking for brutality here, please let me know what is wrong with the figure, and how i can better it next time ( striving for perfection?..)

Here we go..









Lpj out!

He looks like his bottom lip is bruised. If the soldier is meant to depict one in the field, he would likely have stubble. You can achieve this by mixing a little of the paint used for his hair with the skin tone base(about 1:10 hair:skin). The shading along his bandolier and belt is too heavy. You can see some of it crept on to the strap and belt. Something to add a little realism is to cut along pocket flaps with a knife. Just a few strokes should do. There is a gap in his right shoulder. To take care of this, I use some putty, mixed with CA glue to join the parts then sand. As he is already assembled, you might want to try some extra thin gap filling CA glue. You did an excellent job on the medals and ribbons, as well as the epulates. The hands are very well done. Of course, these remarks are all just MHO. I'm still mastering the art of figures, myself.

Hey James, I must say this is a nicely painted figure. I think you have the over-all basics of figure painting down very well and judging by the medals you have a good eye (and hand) for detail painting.

Like Matt, this is only my two cents, but for me the face is just too mono-tone. I think you have the highlights down pretty good, but I think the face needs some more shadows- try a red-brown mixed with the flesh color about 2:1. The hair too could use some highlighting and shadowing- the detail on the figure looks good so the hair would likely hold a dark wash- again try a dark brown with the base hair color. And then perhaps highlight using the base with some white or off-white. I always suggest off-white if you have it, its just that bit less harsh than pure white. As Matt mentioned, some stubble in a field setting always adds a bit of character to a figure. I tend to use black-grey very heavily thinned with distilled water, like 10:1 as Matt said. You can always add in a little brown too if the hair is not particularly dark brown.

A little more highlighting on the very highest folds in the uniform might also help to give it a better definition. Again, lighter colors mixed with the base is a good way to go.

I think you have done a good job depicting the leather satchel but I can't see the same effect on his belt- it would probably be quite worn aswell.

Last thing I can think of is the boots- they are quite clean and unless the figure is on parade (which he may very well be judging by the metal on his chest!) they would be scuffed and/or dirty. Over black I always use black-grey or a mid-grey to bring out scuff marks, particularly around the heel and the toe-cap. Pigments are always good to add a bit of dirt, dry or wet- whatever takes your fancy!

I hope these pointers help a bit. I think everyone who paints figures is still trying to master it! There's always room to learn more.

For tips, how-to's and inspiration I always check out www.planetfigure.com and Calvin Tan's blog, http://zyclyon.blogspot.com/ - both sites have some truly awe inspiring works of art.

Well, your photos are really dark, so it's difficult to comment much on the shading (i.e. too much or too little). The transitions between the shadows and highlights look a bit harsh, but this might not be too bad when viewed under good lighting. I just can't judge that here. It does look like you generally have the shadows and highlights in the right places.

The face is way too dark (talking about the photo) to see much in the way of detail, there, but from the one side photo, it doesn't look like you don't have any shading inside the ear.

I think you're using acrylics, so I have no business commenting on how you might improve your technique, except to say that "practice makes perfect." So, paint more figures and continue to develope your technique.

You obviously have the brush control (adding to Matt's comments on the medals and ribbons), so I don't see any reason why you shouldn't be able to improve.

My major critisim would be with the basic preparation and construction aspects. There are some obvious mold seams on the arms and across the back collar and down the edges of the ears. Also, where you did clean up the seams, you could do a better job smoothing out the trimmed areas.

A set of needle files or fine sand papper twisted into a tube shape can help you smooth out these areas after trimming and restore the folds and creases on the clothing. No matter how well a figure is painted, problems with basic preparation will let down the final results everytime.

Overall, I'd say just keep doing what you're doing, and you'll get better as you get more experience. You obviously have the brush control and a basic understanding of what you want to do, so what's really needed, I think, is just more application and refinement.

Compare your figures with some of the ones painted by master figure guys, and you'll find plenty of inspiration for things to do better. (That's what I do!)

HTH,

Looks good James for sure.

I love the polished toe caps effect you have on the boots.

Faces are so hard because we humans are so instinctively programmed to notice3 anything out of place.

I think it looks pretty good but like the others say maybe another go at the lips. I can never get mine right they either look anaemic or like a drag queen.

I actually like the soft lighting from the side, gives it a more natural look to my eye.

I had to wait until I had ample time to sit down to respond to these awesome replies.

Hi Matt, I felt the pockets were too small to open up, but when I do a 35th scale Styrene figure its something i will try out!, Fixed his lip, took a while to get the right colour! and i Tightened up the shading a tad, its only a little bit, but its less garish, The gap i didn't see until you mentioned it its so tiny! I dont wanna go and mess up my paint job, so ill try to avoid them in the future.!
Thanks for your honest words!

Hey Karl, I thought my technique would leave a little more shading than it did! I basecoated with a dark brown, and moved on to the darkest fleshtone up to the hightlights to try to avoid backtracking and paint buildup. I think if I use a thinner darkest fleshtone to let the brown shine through a little ( and use a more orange/reddy/brown ) I will have the lowlights in the bag, Stubble has always been something to intimidate me, I may have to practice that on a larger scale before I commit Ill sort out a bit more uniform/hair highlighting later on, and post up the difference.

Mike, I always, always seem to get that problem, I think the lcd screen on the camera i use looks too bright, so i turn down the brightness, I try to shoot on my windowsill when i can, natural light e.t.c, but its not always an option, So mr orangey bulb desk lamp is in most photos, i try to brighten them a little, and fiddle with contrast, ( very subtly,)
I must admit when it comes to seam lines I get lazy ( not so much the initial clean up, its the cleanup of the cleanup, refolding, scribing e.t.c, I'll have to use the rolled up sandpaper technique to do this next time,


Scott! Theres nothing like the polished boot tip of a proud soldier! Thanks for the Crit, the biggest problem I had was repainting the Lip. Too pink, too purple, not fleshy enough... I think I got lucky though!!

Ill finish the touch-ups, and re shoot under better light.
Thanks for everyone's input so far, I'll have to go back to 1/35 next time and get stuck in to painting a Soldiers face.

Hey James- I still find doing stubble nerve wracking! If you have a small brush, like 10/0 or something, you can actually drybrush stubble if you are careful and take it slow. I practiced doing it that way until I was happy with the look and placement of the stubble, then I began to do it with acrylic washes and I've experimented with oil and enamel washes too. The best thing to practice face painting on are Hornet heads- expensive yes but the detail and definition on them really does aid the painting.

I have the Dml Guedecanal set in the post, so im going to attempt stubble on one of those.

okay, so I Did 2 1/48 figures, each one has its good and bad points,i feel the shading on mr left is better pronounced, but the detail is better on mr right. Im undecided on the faces, Mr left has once again, more shading, but everything is very very subtle, and the other guys lip has been improved. I mounted them, as I felt they were my fave/ best figures yet.

Wow and in 1/48 they look great.

paul

James- stellar work on both figures! Remember to keep practicing and working on different techniques- there are a lot out there and also paints other than acrylics to muck about with!

Thanks guys, Karl, i want to try oils, just not yet

Hey guys! Attempted another 1/48 face today, using a few tutorials, thoughts!?

I think you've done a great job of the face here. I really don't think you need to change it.

little frustrated atm, I moved on to 1/35 and have had to strip the head twice already, I'm just not getting the desired results. Ill up photos next attempt, i think i'm going to follow calvin Tan's tutorial to the letter next time.

What seems to be the problem James? 1/35 is tricky for sure but you did a great job of 1/48 and its really just a process of translating that to a slightly larger head. In my opinion you really can't go wrong with Calvin Tan's tutorials although if you find it is not working for you then try something else- it is important to find what you are comfortable with.

I've been trying to use a technique Calvin is currently investigating- wet-on-wet or alla prima with acrylics and also the sfumato technique. For me it has been trial and error just as, it would seem, 1/35 has been for you (I'm working with these techniques on a 1/10 bust). Sure its frustrating when it doesn't work out right but I just remember what I did and where I went wrong and try again- I reckon it was/is the same for Calvin too.

Hi James

All sound advice given above. Figures look good to me and I would be perfectly happy with them if they where mine. I can barley see a 1/48 scale figure, let alone paint one.

One bit of advice I might suggest is to pick up some daylight bulbs for your desk lamps. They are inexpensive and really make a big deference in the quality of the picture. Also you might want to conceder a light colored back drop behind the subject when taking pictures.

I have to admit, that I have been kind of lazy about the backdrop, so I have been using two blue file folders for my backdrop.

I know photography is a whole other subject, but I thought I would let you know what works for me.

You´ve had some sound advice, so far so I can´t really add much. If you have achieved to paint a 1/48 figure that looks like a young Ernest Borgnine in a Russian uniform then you are up amongst the best. I use Vallejo paints,Hornet heads & the minimum of effort for the results that I´m happy with;you should be very happy too with the way that you have improved since you first came on here. I know people that get excellent results from oil paints but that´s something I´ve never tried,maybe one day I´ll get round to it. Work on the technique that suits you best & keep enjoying the hobby.It´s all about facing up to the challenge & improving ,not frustrating yourself with goals that are beyond ambition. The fact that you can do something with a Tamiya head is remarkable. Get some hornet heads & blow your mind; it´s the next logical step

Thanks for the input Fellas, i think im getting there with being happier with my work!( always room for improvement), I still need to find some daylight bulbs, ( maybe need to look a little harder)...
Mike, i did a little googling, and i see the resembelance! one of the few times i have painted a figure that looks like someone! Awesome!