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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
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Blu tack issues!!
Tanksami
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 01:51 PM UTC
Hi All,

I have just used Blu tax for the first time as a mask, I am able to get 99% of it off but my question is what is the best method of removing the residual 1%. I have use model master enamels.

cheers mike
IrishGreek
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 01:53 PM UTC
Mike,

I have only used it once (with Tamiya paints) and it came off with no problems from the model. The Tamiya tape was another matter entirely though...

John
zontar
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 02:19 PM UTC
Mike: I typically use a wad of blue tack and "blot" off the residual (gently). HTH.

Happy Modelling, -zon
SgtRam
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AEROSCALE
#197
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 02:59 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Mike: I typically use a wad of blue tack and "blot" off the residual (gently). HTH.

Happy Modelling, -zon



DITTO
Tanksami
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 03:40 PM UTC
Hi Joh, Zon & Kevin,

Thanks very much I will give it a go & see how if it removes it from the little knocks & grannies, my original idea had been to try using an old tooth brush.

Ta Mike
Magpie
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 03:42 PM UTC
I'm pretty sure it goes completely to hell with either Lacquer Thinners or White Spirit, can't remember exactly which. Maybe a rag damped with some of this and a light touch?

TEST FIRST !
Tanksami
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Posted: Saturday, February 25, 2012 - 03:54 PM UTC
Hi Scott,

Wouldn't that remove the enamel paint used??

Ta Mike
Karl187
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 03:34 AM UTC
Mike, have you ever tried Silly Putty/Thinking Putty/Science Putty- it is much easier to shape and will peel off without leaving any residue. The odd bit can get stuck around sharp detail but press another bit of putty into it and pull it off- that sorts it out. Its good stuff, I switched to it from blu tac because of the same problems you are describing.
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 04:41 AM UTC
Karl I had a problem with silly putty creeping if not removed as soon as you have sprayed. By this I mean if left on the model for any amount of time it flows very slowly getting into places that are a pig to remove it from especially photo etched items such as engine grill covers.
Karl187
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 04:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Karl I had a problem with silly putty creeping if not removed as soon as you have sprayed. By this I mean if left on the model for any amount of time it flows very slowly getting into places that are a pig to remove it from especially photo etched items such as engine grill covers.



Yeah, I get this too- it kind of has a mind of its own if left for too long. It really loves to eat the photo etch too- my solution to this is to mask off the PE bits with a bit of tape if and when the putty is going to be applied over it.
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Sunday, February 26, 2012 - 11:01 AM UTC
Hi

I have used this technique with blue-tac and found a sharpened cocktail stick useful for hard to get places. You can carve the end to suit the situation and once it is lifting the stubborn bit of putty it can be used to gently peel it all out of the nook or crannie. I definitely wouldn't use a toothbrush, that will just spread it around.

Hope that helps,

All the best,

Paul
Tanksami
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Posted: Saturday, March 03, 2012 - 09:09 AM UTC
Thanks to all for the advice tried the dabbing techinque & worked great even in the hard to reach spots

Cheers Mike
SgtRam
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#197
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Posted: Saturday, March 03, 2012 - 09:52 AM UTC
By the way, I use the no name brand from Staples, find it not as tacky, but works great.
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