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Armor/AFV: Braille Scale
1/72 and 1/76 Scale Armor and AFVs.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1117 Guardian
Jester_ops
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 06, 2011
KitMaker: 12 posts
Armorama: 11 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 05:14 AM UTC
Does anyone make an M1117 Guardian in 1/72 scale?
Or MRAP series vehicles in 1/72?
jwest21
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 3,374 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 07:45 AM UTC
I am not aware of an M1117 in 72nd but there is a resin Maxxpro in Braille
http://www.modelimex.com/1-72-maxx-pro-resin-kit-w-pe-set
jwest21
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 3,374 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 07:46 AM UTC
a M-ATV too
http://www.modelimex.com/1-72-m-atv-full-resin-kit-incl-pe-set
erhntly
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Izmir, Turkey / Türkçe
Joined: June 11, 2004
KitMaker: 1,426 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 09:33 AM UTC
Hi Robert,
No plastic model, perhaps as a resin
Jester_ops
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 06, 2011
KitMaker: 12 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 - 11:11 AM UTC
Ok thanks. Hard to believe that the M1117 has been in service since 1999 or 2000 and no 1/72 model of it.
MacTrucks
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Indiana, United States
Joined: November 12, 2006
KitMaker: 285 posts
Armorama: 228 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2012 - 06:02 PM UTC
Not really. It seems some vehicles take forever to find in 1/72 scale. I just received an Armada Hobby M923 Bigfoot. Very nice kit and makes me want to buy more of their stuff.

If there is a market eventually you just might see it. I'm still waiting on a decent V100.
Jester_ops
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 06, 2011
KitMaker: 12 posts
Armorama: 11 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 04:42 AM UTC
Oh wow. There is a M1117 in 1/35 but i prefer the smaller ones they fit my budget and have more space to display them.

And I just ordered the resin M-ATV never built a resin kit any thing I should know?
tread_geek
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 23, 2008
KitMaker: 2,847 posts
Armorama: 2,667 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 05:30 AM UTC
Robert,

I've only built a couple of resin "kits" before but I have a member in my local IPMS club who not only is a pro at them but also casts his own. Firstly, be prepared for some fairly large attachment points (pour plugs) on parts that will need to be taken care of. Second and MOST IMPORTANT our expert always stresses that resin is hazardous. When working with a resin model it is always important to take some basic precautions, especially when sanding the model. Inhaling resin dust is hazardous but with the proper precautions, these risks can be eliminated. It is recommended that you wear a filter mask and safety goggles while sanding and that all sanding be done on wet sandpaper to reduce the amount of resin dust. If you experience any health concerns, it is advised that you contact a physician immediately. Just do a Google search on the subject and you'll get loads of info.

Cheers,
Jan
Jester_ops
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 06, 2011
KitMaker: 12 posts
Armorama: 11 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 17, 2012 - 08:38 AM UTC
Ok thanks all for the help.
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2012 - 12:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

MOST IMPORTANT our expert always stresses that resin is hazardous. When working with a resin model it is always important to take some basic precautions, especially when sanding the model. Inhaling resin dust is hazardous but with the proper precautions, these risks can be eliminated. It is recommended that you wear a filter mask and safety goggles while sanding and that all sanding be done on wet sandpaper to reduce the amount of resin dust. If you experience any health concerns, it is advised that you contact a physician immediately. Just do a Google search on the subject and you'll get loads of info.

Cheers,
Jan



Old modelers' tale.

Cured resin dust is inert. It is not carcenogenic. It's an irratant like any fine dust and is no more hazardous than very fine plastic dust, saw dust or the incessant dust that covers our models on the shelves. House dust is probably worse, since there are people with allergies to it. Resin dust is messy and light. In large, industrial levels, as with most fine dusts in large concemntrations, it can easily combust. Some uncred resins can be seriously problematic healthwise, but by the time you get it, you really need no more precautions than with any fine particulate matter.

You probably need eye protection more when cutting PE than when sanding resin. If you have complromised breathing already, you shuold take eral precautinos. As to wet sanding, well tha makes for easier clean up afterwards.
Jester_ops
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Georgia, United States
Joined: September 06, 2011
KitMaker: 12 posts
Armorama: 11 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2012 - 04:08 AM UTC
Ok thanks. Are all resin models cured and not hazardous? I'll be using caution any way I have sensitive allergies to dust and pollen and whatnot. Thanks for all the help.
AJLaFleche
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
Armorama: 3,293 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2012 - 04:43 AM UTC
All resin models are "cured." Curing is the chemical process by which the resin and hardener combine and turn from liquid to solid. If the resin weren't cured, it would be sticky, soft goop.

WhenI was given an allergy test a few years ago, resin was not on the list, so I'm going to assume it's not considered an allergen.

Again, sanding it creates a fine dust. So does sanding pastel chalk for weathering. The chalk we all used in grade school likewise created a fine dust. This can be an irritant and a little care goes a long way.
MacTrucks
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Indiana, United States
Joined: November 12, 2006
KitMaker: 285 posts
Armorama: 228 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2012 - 09:19 AM UTC
Resin casting blocks must be carefully removed. Unlike styrene, which can clipped off, I would recommend carefully sawing them off with a jewelers saw. Resin is brittle and can fracture where you don't want it to break if you use clippers or force through it with a blade.

Some resin's will also have a mold release that should be washed off. Technically styrene can have this as well, but resins tend to be coated in something paint won't stick to.

There are some good references to getting started with resin. It's not bad, just a little different. If I can get my computer back running (I'm borrowing one to check emails), I'll start a build log on the M42 Duster that I started and the M923 I just received.
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