Hello, I'm pretty new to the hobby and I was hoping I could get some opinions on some pretty generic questions.
1.) Is it better to paint all parts while they are still attached to the sprue, or assemble the entire figure first then paint?
2.) what are some of your opinions on spray priming? Necessary or not?
3.) What sort of paints do you like? I use tamiya at the moment. Are there any other brands worth looking into?
4.) Tamiya vs. Dragon. Which do you prefer? Is one better than the other?
thanks
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
New to painting figures, Need advice
nate959
United States
Joined: April 01, 2012
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Joined: April 01, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 04:38 AM UTC
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 04:59 AM UTC
Welcome to the forums,I am not an expert figure painter but heres what i do.
4.I assemble most of the figure then paint,some weapons I will paint and add,like rifles and panzerfausts,but generally everything else i assemble
2.priming is good,helps you see flaws and seams
3.Vallejo,lots of colors,brushes on real smooth
4.I prefer Dragon over Tamiya
4.I assemble most of the figure then paint,some weapons I will paint and add,like rifles and panzerfausts,but generally everything else i assemble
2.priming is good,helps you see flaws and seams
3.Vallejo,lots of colors,brushes on real smooth
4.I prefer Dragon over Tamiya
nate959
United States
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Posted: Sunday, April 01, 2012 - 05:15 AM UTC
Thanks for the advice.
Also, it looks like dragon kits have sharper detail than the tamiya kits. Is this true or am I just seeing things? What are some other good brands?
Also, it looks like dragon kits have sharper detail than the tamiya kits. Is this true or am I just seeing things? What are some other good brands?
max_meeki
Tasmania, Australia
Joined: December 19, 2011
KitMaker: 92 posts
Armorama: 88 posts
Joined: December 19, 2011
KitMaker: 92 posts
Armorama: 88 posts
Posted: Monday, April 02, 2012 - 12:33 AM UTC
My 2c worth
1. agree with Anthony
2. agree with Anthony
3. Lifecolor my also be worth a look, nice colour selection and better value than Tamiya. I like them better than Tamiya for brushing but they need a bit of practice for airbrush.
4. Tamiya are known for their easy assembly and great parts fit, they have fewer parts than Dragon which do tend to have better detail. Some other good brands are Bronco, Tristar, AFV just to name a few. Which kit you choose from whatever brand could depend on if you prefer ease of assembly over accuracy, subject matter will also play a part. Even an ordinary kit can be made into a show piece, just look through the build logs here.
I haven't been modeling for long and after a year I now have at least 7+ brands of models in my stash as well as using Tamiya, Lifecolor, Humbrol and Gunze Mr.Colour paints. Also Artist oil paints and pigments, filters and the list goes on...... My point is I don't think that many modelers here just stick to the one paint or model brand, often availability in you area may be the deciding factor with paints and kits. "But then there's there's the wonderful world of eBay. "
Cheers
1. agree with Anthony
2. agree with Anthony
3. Lifecolor my also be worth a look, nice colour selection and better value than Tamiya. I like them better than Tamiya for brushing but they need a bit of practice for airbrush.
4. Tamiya are known for their easy assembly and great parts fit, they have fewer parts than Dragon which do tend to have better detail. Some other good brands are Bronco, Tristar, AFV just to name a few. Which kit you choose from whatever brand could depend on if you prefer ease of assembly over accuracy, subject matter will also play a part. Even an ordinary kit can be made into a show piece, just look through the build logs here.
I haven't been modeling for long and after a year I now have at least 7+ brands of models in my stash as well as using Tamiya, Lifecolor, Humbrol and Gunze Mr.Colour paints. Also Artist oil paints and pigments, filters and the list goes on...... My point is I don't think that many modelers here just stick to the one paint or model brand, often availability in you area may be the deciding factor with paints and kits. "But then there's there's the wonderful world of eBay. "
Cheers
Posted: Monday, April 02, 2012 - 02:09 AM UTC
Hello Nate, welcome to armorama. I hope myself and the other guys can help you with any questions. My two cents:
Well I hope this helps you Nate!
Quoted Text
1.) Is it better to paint all parts while they are still attached to the sprue, or assemble the entire figure first then paint?
This depends on the parts. Some people like to assemble the entire figure prior to painting. Others can do it in a few stages, like keeping the head and weapon (and perhaps accessories/equipment) seperate and then adding them once finished. If you paint on the sprue you'll eventually have to cut it off, leaving the attachment point void of paint- essentially making a bit more work for yourself. You'd also have to be careful with glue as some, especially poly cement, will lift glue off and make attachment to other painted parts tricky and messy (paint in the mating area will usually lead to a poor join).
Personally speaking I always assemble the figure before painting. Depending on the pose I might leave off various bits of equipment, a weapon or perhaps even the head to ease painting.
2.) what are some of your opinions on spray priming? Necessary or not?
I think this is very much down to personal preference. Using a poor quality primer or being too heavy handed with it can result in some of the details being lost under the paint. A brush painted primer coat will give you more control but won't be as good a 'key' to begin painting over. My advice is to experiment with both and see what you like.
3.) What sort of paints do you like? I use tamiya at the moment. Are there any other brands worth looking into?
Tamiya paints are some of the best on the market but they don't lend themselves easily to figure painting. Many figure painters prefer Vallejo and/or Andrea acrylics. That doesn't mean you can't or shouldn't use Tamiya- some fine results can be achieved with Tamiya. I've also heard people using Lifecolor and Gunze paints too. Also don't forget enamels like Model Master or Humbrol, they offer some very fine paints too- as enamels they just have different properties to that of acrylics. My advice her is experiment with different brands to find what you are most happy with.
4.) Tamiya vs. Dragon. Which do you prefer? Is one better than the other?
It is generally accepted that Dragon's figures have a bit of an edge over Tamiya's, especially DML's more recent releases that incorporate Gen2 gear (they also do Gen2 figure sets with much more detail on the figures themselves but they have not released a new set in a while). However, I have some Tamiya figure sets I use for spares and the odd experiment and the quality on some is excellent- some of their releases are better than others.
Other brands plastic to consider would be Miniart and Masterbox as well as the companies some of the other guys have mentioned.
Well I hope this helps you Nate!
grom
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: July 28, 2005
KitMaker: 214 posts
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Joined: July 28, 2005
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Posted: Monday, April 02, 2012 - 09:29 PM UTC
Hi Nate,most of what you have asked has been well covered by the responses from the guys,just to say whatever medium you choose (which might be affected by availabilty)practice on an old figure first, I usually choose an old one from my stash that i did'nt like because of the pose etc,I know from experience that you whant to jump in and get to work on your latest figure but dont be tempted practice pays off,dont forget to shave off seam lines and fill in any gaps around joins,virtually anything you wish to know about figure construction ,paintig finishing converting can be found on this site or Historicus Forma which is mainly for figures,good luck with your new found hobby
AJLaFleche
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: May 05, 2002
KitMaker: 8,074 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 - 02:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello, I'm pretty new to the hobby and I was hoping I could get some opinions on some pretty generic questions.
1.) Is it better to paint all parts while they are still attached to the sprue, or assemble the entire figure first then paint?
As suggested, to some degree, it depends on the pose and location of the parts in question. Minimally, it's better, IMHO, to remove parts from sprues/pour plugs before painting since you'll have to duplicate your work in cleaning up seams and attachment points. I never attach a head before painting. It's just a lot easier to work on facial details on a head attached to a toothpick or other holder.
Quoted Text
2.) what are some of your opinions on spray priming? Necessary or not?
Better to prime lightly with a neutral color. First, it gives the paint something to bite into. Bare plastic, metal or resin can be touchy about paint adhession. Second, it will help you see mold lines/defects before you start painting the real colors.
Quoted Text
3.) What sort of paints do you like? I use tamiya at the moment. Are there any other brands worth looking into?
Vallejo/Andrea are my paints almost exclussively. Italeri recently released a line of paints that acts like Vallejo and matches at least some of their colors. Since you'll be brush painting and are starting out in the dark art of figure painting, don't even try to use Tamiya. Get yourself some Vallejo right off. Among the advantages are the value...the paint is to be thinned with distilled water, a dollar or so a gallon at the grocery store; the shelf life, I've had some vallejo for over ten years and it's still good; and the fact it was designed to be applied by brush, though it can also be airbrushed with a bit of practice.
Quoted Text
4.) Tamiya vs. Dragon. Which do you prefer? Is one better than the other?
Many of Tamiya's figures are rereleases of 35 year old designs, when no one realy cared ablout the quality of a figure in a motorized tank. Details on these will be very soft, faces will have almost no details for you to work with while painting and many are under scale. Some of the later releases are acceptable, but generally, DML/Dragon has better figures than Tamiya. More figure specific manufacturers, such as Alpine and Legend will have figures light years ahead of either of these. SOME Verlinden are decent, but some have problems in poses and all have attachment points/pour plugs that are too big, poorly placed for clean up, or both.
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 - 03:08 AM UTC
Go and look at some really well painted figures on various threads here on Armorama, on Historicus Forma, and in the Missing-Lynx Constructive Comments and Figures forums.
(There are other places on line, but these should get you going.)
Note the techniques used by the various painters of the figures you think are the best.
There are two major "schools" for figure painting - 1) All acrylics using "glazes" for shadows and highlights, and 2) Artist oils usually painted over acrylic undercoats and blended "wet-on-wet."
Some few painters use acrylics and glazing for uniforms and oils for faces and hands. A very few still use hobby enamels blended wet-on-wet (or semi-dry and sometimes combined with artis oils).
Of the these techniques, I can say that I use the second basic method, artist oils over acrylic undercoats, but there are some phenominal figure painters who use acrylics exclusively, and still others who use other techniques.
Next, go and get a couple of books on figure painting. Osprey has several pretty good and relatively inexpensive books. Look for authors like Mark Bannerman and Calvin Tan (again, there are others).
Note that the authors of any figure painting books you buy will only be showing the techniques that they use,so if you want to learn how to paint using acrylics, you should look for books by authors who paint using only those (Calvin Tan comes to mind). (Mark Bannerman is an "oils over acrylics" painter.)
You'll note form the above that most figure painters use some acrylics, either exclusively or as undercoats, so learning how to thin and paint with brands such as Vallejo, Andre, Games Workshop, Reaper, etc, is your first step in developing your painting skills.
Once you can get consistant results with mono-tone colors on your figures (i.e. the uniform items painted in single colors with no shading or highlights), then you'll be ready to take the next steps of highlighting and shading.
You need to develope the brush control needed to get smooth applications with sharp color demarcations. You need to be able to brush fairly fine lines and small details with sharp edges and color demarcations. These are the basic brush control skills that you must master before being able to get good results with any shading techniques you want to learn.
You also need to learn how to thin and mix the paints. Most acrylic paints should not be painted straight from the bottle, but rather thinned and applied in multiple semi-transparent coats.
BTW: These same brush control and "paint management" (thinning and mixing) techniques are the ones you need to do good detail painting on your armor models.
You can take your mono-tone figures and dry brush and apply washes to get some shading, but dry-brushing and washes will only ever take you so far. However, a lot (probably most, really) modelers are satisfied with just mono-tone colors, dry-brushed (for highlights) and washed (for shadows).
Once you're ready to go beyond these basic techniques, though, you'll need to pick one of the shading techniques used by the more advanced figure painters and learn it.
Here are some of my figures:
I clean-up and assemble the figures as completely as possible before I paint (because I hate to have to go back and do touch-up painting). However, I almost always paint the heads and faces separately because it is so much easier to access them.
I prime with Tamiya flat white sprayed on with my airbrush. Nothing special here, just an even flat white acrylic base. This helps to show areas that still need work (cleaning, seams, filling, etc) and provides an even color to paint over (so that the underlying color doesn't effect the final colors).
I undercoat the figures using mostly Vallejo acrylics matched or mixed to a color close to the desired final color of the item.
I then use artist oil paints, colors mixed and blended on the pallet. I paint the figures entirely with the oils blending the shadows and highlights on the figure. I like oil paints becuase of their versatility in color mixing (I don't need to buy every acrylic color under the sun to get the right shades on y figures) and their long working time which makes blending them easier.
The long working time means that they take a few days to dry (considered by many to be a draw-back). Also, some practice is needed to blend colors (an easily learned skill), and finally, some practive is need to learn how to apply oil paints (very, very little paint is needed!).
After drying (usually a couple of days under a cover to keep the dust off), I do any final assembly (usually just adding the heads) and then flat coat the figures with Testors Dull Coat.
As you develope your figure painting skills, everyone here on Armorama will be happy to help answer any questions or offer more advice. But you really do need to be clear in your own mind about the techniques you're trying to master or the answers and advice will often sound conflicting and be confusing. This is because everyone has their own techniques and many of those are not necessarily compatible with other techniques.
What works for one painter often times cannot be combined with what works for another. It's up to you to keep these straight.
HTH,
(There are other places on line, but these should get you going.)
Note the techniques used by the various painters of the figures you think are the best.
There are two major "schools" for figure painting - 1) All acrylics using "glazes" for shadows and highlights, and 2) Artist oils usually painted over acrylic undercoats and blended "wet-on-wet."
Some few painters use acrylics and glazing for uniforms and oils for faces and hands. A very few still use hobby enamels blended wet-on-wet (or semi-dry and sometimes combined with artis oils).
Of the these techniques, I can say that I use the second basic method, artist oils over acrylic undercoats, but there are some phenominal figure painters who use acrylics exclusively, and still others who use other techniques.
Next, go and get a couple of books on figure painting. Osprey has several pretty good and relatively inexpensive books. Look for authors like Mark Bannerman and Calvin Tan (again, there are others).
Note that the authors of any figure painting books you buy will only be showing the techniques that they use,so if you want to learn how to paint using acrylics, you should look for books by authors who paint using only those (Calvin Tan comes to mind). (Mark Bannerman is an "oils over acrylics" painter.)
You'll note form the above that most figure painters use some acrylics, either exclusively or as undercoats, so learning how to thin and paint with brands such as Vallejo, Andre, Games Workshop, Reaper, etc, is your first step in developing your painting skills.
Once you can get consistant results with mono-tone colors on your figures (i.e. the uniform items painted in single colors with no shading or highlights), then you'll be ready to take the next steps of highlighting and shading.
You need to develope the brush control needed to get smooth applications with sharp color demarcations. You need to be able to brush fairly fine lines and small details with sharp edges and color demarcations. These are the basic brush control skills that you must master before being able to get good results with any shading techniques you want to learn.
You also need to learn how to thin and mix the paints. Most acrylic paints should not be painted straight from the bottle, but rather thinned and applied in multiple semi-transparent coats.
BTW: These same brush control and "paint management" (thinning and mixing) techniques are the ones you need to do good detail painting on your armor models.
You can take your mono-tone figures and dry brush and apply washes to get some shading, but dry-brushing and washes will only ever take you so far. However, a lot (probably most, really) modelers are satisfied with just mono-tone colors, dry-brushed (for highlights) and washed (for shadows).
Once you're ready to go beyond these basic techniques, though, you'll need to pick one of the shading techniques used by the more advanced figure painters and learn it.
Here are some of my figures:
I clean-up and assemble the figures as completely as possible before I paint (because I hate to have to go back and do touch-up painting). However, I almost always paint the heads and faces separately because it is so much easier to access them.
I prime with Tamiya flat white sprayed on with my airbrush. Nothing special here, just an even flat white acrylic base. This helps to show areas that still need work (cleaning, seams, filling, etc) and provides an even color to paint over (so that the underlying color doesn't effect the final colors).
I undercoat the figures using mostly Vallejo acrylics matched or mixed to a color close to the desired final color of the item.
I then use artist oil paints, colors mixed and blended on the pallet. I paint the figures entirely with the oils blending the shadows and highlights on the figure. I like oil paints becuase of their versatility in color mixing (I don't need to buy every acrylic color under the sun to get the right shades on y figures) and their long working time which makes blending them easier.
The long working time means that they take a few days to dry (considered by many to be a draw-back). Also, some practice is needed to blend colors (an easily learned skill), and finally, some practive is need to learn how to apply oil paints (very, very little paint is needed!).
After drying (usually a couple of days under a cover to keep the dust off), I do any final assembly (usually just adding the heads) and then flat coat the figures with Testors Dull Coat.
As you develope your figure painting skills, everyone here on Armorama will be happy to help answer any questions or offer more advice. But you really do need to be clear in your own mind about the techniques you're trying to master or the answers and advice will often sound conflicting and be confusing. This is because everyone has their own techniques and many of those are not necessarily compatible with other techniques.
What works for one painter often times cannot be combined with what works for another. It's up to you to keep these straight.
HTH,
panzerconor
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: February 08, 2012
KitMaker: 1,271 posts
Armorama: 1,253 posts
Joined: February 08, 2012
KitMaker: 1,271 posts
Armorama: 1,253 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 - 04:11 AM UTC
I'm no expert, but I tend to assemble and paint the basic torso and legs, then paint them. I've heard from some that the best way of figure painting is to paint them like you're dressing them (skin, 1st layer, 2nd layer and so on). I do the complete opposite of that.
Wouldn't bash all of Tamiya figures, some are worth a look. My only complaint with dragon is a lack of animation to their figs poses. But dragon is exellent quality, and if you want to experiment in mix and matching figures, go for it. Masterbox has well animated, but the detail on the clothing is not as good. Master Box faces are good through. And I would try resin, theyre pricy but worth it sometimes. I would stick to Jaguar resin, IMO.
When it comes to paint, I've got no preferences. I use tamiya, model master, and testors to good results. The best advice I can give is to find a good system for you and stick to it.
-Conor
Wouldn't bash all of Tamiya figures, some are worth a look. My only complaint with dragon is a lack of animation to their figs poses. But dragon is exellent quality, and if you want to experiment in mix and matching figures, go for it. Masterbox has well animated, but the detail on the clothing is not as good. Master Box faces are good through. And I would try resin, theyre pricy but worth it sometimes. I would stick to Jaguar resin, IMO.
When it comes to paint, I've got no preferences. I use tamiya, model master, and testors to good results. The best advice I can give is to find a good system for you and stick to it.
-Conor
SoumiArbs
Michigan, United States
Joined: April 01, 2012
KitMaker: 90 posts
Armorama: 87 posts
Joined: April 01, 2012
KitMaker: 90 posts
Armorama: 87 posts
Posted: Monday, April 09, 2012 - 10:33 AM UTC
i am also somewhat a "newbie" at figure painting.
I've got to agree with all above on all points. Assemble the figure, gear and all as much as you can without making a blind or hard to get to painting spot. I never glue the hand held item till last and avoid painting that hand till then also.
For me the Paint of choice is Tamiya, because my small hobby shop carries a complete line of it. i have used Vallejo with great results, but I have to order it. It seems the Panzer Aces by Vallejo is made for figures.
I use Tamiya Flat white as my primer. For the flaw revealing effect, and laying the Nap down for the next coat. I spray it on with airbrush , mixing it a little thinner, like 60 thinner and 40 paint. It really helps my coverage with the next coat and does not hide detail like commercial cans of primer do. Tamiya has a surface primer in aerosol cans now.
I've heard it is nice to use.
Finally, I picked up a book on painting figures from Amazon and that helped me a lot. There are several posts, and online tutorials here and else were to help if you have time to research. Frankly, I'm becoming slightly addicted to painting these little guys, be careful
I've got to agree with all above on all points. Assemble the figure, gear and all as much as you can without making a blind or hard to get to painting spot. I never glue the hand held item till last and avoid painting that hand till then also.
For me the Paint of choice is Tamiya, because my small hobby shop carries a complete line of it. i have used Vallejo with great results, but I have to order it. It seems the Panzer Aces by Vallejo is made for figures.
I use Tamiya Flat white as my primer. For the flaw revealing effect, and laying the Nap down for the next coat. I spray it on with airbrush , mixing it a little thinner, like 60 thinner and 40 paint. It really helps my coverage with the next coat and does not hide detail like commercial cans of primer do. Tamiya has a surface primer in aerosol cans now.
I've heard it is nice to use.
Finally, I picked up a book on painting figures from Amazon and that helped me a lot. There are several posts, and online tutorials here and else were to help if you have time to research. Frankly, I'm becoming slightly addicted to painting these little guys, be careful