_GOTOBOTTOM
Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
First figgie painting attempt
Murdo
Visit this Community
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: May 25, 2005
KitMaker: 2,218 posts
Armorama: 1,050 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 09:29 AM UTC
Hi all,

Doing my first foray into figure painting with these, the Corporal and Officer for now.

Drat! I can already see a seam line on the Corporal's neck and the L/H side of his mouser needs trimming a bit.

They were brush painted with Tamiya acrylics which (as usual) I found very difficult. Unfortunately these paints are all I have for the time being.

The figures obviously aren't finished yet (some bits still held on with Blue Tack) but what do you reckon?

Is the shadowing too stark?

Should I keep or strip and repaint when I get "proper" figure paints?


They don't look too bad from a distance (around 60 feet away).










I'm planning to attempt my first desert diorama attempt with this lot and that base:




Criticisms and suggestions welcome
retiredyank
Visit this Community
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 09:48 AM UTC
The shading appears to be blue. You should add a drop of black to the same color you used for the neutral green to show shadows. You may also want to add a drop of white to the same green and trace the outside edge of the folds. As is, the shading is too sparse. The holster should not be the same color you use for flesh. For the lenses of the binoculars, add some very diluted blue. Add some shadows to the face using just a tiny bit of brown mixed with the base color. I use brown school water-colors and a line brush.
I hate handpainting with Tamiya's acrylics. You would benifit from laying the base coat down with an airbrush. I did these with a mix of Tamiya and MM. I did use an airbrush for the base coat.
210cav
Visit this Community
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 01:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The shading appears to be blue. You should add a drop of black to the same color you used for the neutral green to show shadows. You may also want to add a drop of white to the same green and trace the outside edge of the folds. As is, the shading is too sparse. The holster should not be the same color you use for flesh. For the lenses of the binoculars, add some very diluted blue. Add some shadows to the face using just a tiny bit of brown mixed with the base color. I use brown school water-colors and a line brush.
I hate handpainting with Tamiya's acrylics. You would benifit from laying the base coat down with an airbrush. I did these with a mix of Tamiya and MM. I did use an airbrush for the base coat.


Those figures are superb! Like Murdo, my difficulty is in getting the facial tone correct. You both mention acrylic paint, but some guys are using "oils." Apparently, burnt sienna, black combination provide a darker facial color. While this means a substantially long drying period, have you tried that approach? I want to get the same results as you show on your three figures, can you provide a step by step so I can try to duplicate?
Thanks
DJ
retiredyank
Visit this Community
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 01:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

The shading appears to be blue. You should add a drop of black to the same color you used for the neutral green to show shadows. You may also want to add a drop of white to the same green and trace the outside edge of the folds. As is, the shading is too sparse. The holster should not be the same color you use for flesh. For the lenses of the binoculars, add some very diluted blue. Add some shadows to the face using just a tiny bit of brown mixed with the base color. I use brown school water-colors and a line brush.
I hate handpainting with Tamiya's acrylics. You would benifit from laying the base coat down with an airbrush. I did these with a mix of Tamiya and MM. I did use an airbrush for the base coat.


Those figures are superb! Like Murdo, my difficulty is in getting the facial tone correct. You both mention acrylic paint, but some guys are using "oils." Apparently, burnt sienna, black combination provide a darker facial color. While this means a substantially long drying period, have you tried that approach? I want to get the same results as you show on your three figures, can you provide a step by step so I can try to duplicate?
Thanks
DJ

Thank you DJ. I have heard of using oils for figures, but have not tried them yet. I bought some watercolors a few years ago and still have plenty of brown. Also, using watercolors is more forgiving than oils. As for larger areas, I'm just not sure.
210cav
Visit this Community
Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 12:47 AM UTC
Matt-- so you are using Tamiya acrylic, which colors did you apply to the facial areas?
Thanks
DJ
retiredyank
Visit this Community
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 01:41 AM UTC
I sprayed Tamiya Flesh for the base and highlited with MM Skin Tone Light. For the shadows, I used school watercolors brown. The shading takes a little practice, using a fine line brush. But, if you don't like it you can remove it with a brush dipped in water.
pseudorealityx
Visit this Community
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 03:08 AM UTC
It would help to put down a flesh colored base color using an airbrush. Tamiya is fine for that. If you didn't prime the figure, just spray the whole figure.

The "key" for me to brush painting Tamiya is to keep it wet. I put my brush in Tamiya thinner, then add some paint, and then use that. That keeps it from developing that 'skin' of paint so fast.

For shadows and highlights, I would suggest oils. Water colors are a poor choice. Surface tension in the water really hurts you here. You can fix it to some degree, but oils are just the better medium. They have lots of working time, come in better color selections, and the effects are better.

Here's some figures that I painted earlier this year for my T-55. All the base colors are Tamiya, sprayed with a base, and then brushed the main colors for the clothes. After that, everything else is oil based.






By no means am I a figure painter, but I'm happy enough with these guys to accent my tank.
retiredyank
Visit this Community
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 06:15 AM UTC
I don't have any problems with the water colors pooling. Just use very little water and trace the areas to be shaded. I focus on the eyes, ears, and mouth. I agree with you on airbrush the flesh color. I prime, with grey, then lay down a coat of white. And, I work from there.
Achee74
Visit this Community
Kuching, Malaysia
Joined: October 06, 2009
KitMaker: 100 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 02:24 PM UTC
Hi Jesse,

Wat figures are they? I know 2 of them are from CMK, how about the 2 in the tank?

Thanks
Alex
pseudorealityx
Visit this Community
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
KitMaker: 2,191 posts
Armorama: 1,814 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 04:50 PM UTC
Alex., they are hybrids of the ICM Afghan set., the commander with a modified head that was a resin copy of one of the cmk figures.
Achee74
Visit this Community
Kuching, Malaysia
Joined: October 06, 2009
KitMaker: 100 posts
Armorama: 84 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 05:48 PM UTC
Hi Jesse,

Thanks a million.

Alex


Quoted Text

Alex., they are hybrids of the ICM Afghan set., the commander with a modified head that was a resin copy of one of the cmk figures.
 _GOTOTOP