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Armor/AFV: Axis - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Axis forces during World War II.
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Stug IV help please
Tanksami
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Friday, May 18, 2012 - 04:53 PM UTC
Hi Guys,

Quick question was the front drive train / transmisson in the Stug IV the same as a Panzer IV?? I have the ancient verlinden productions set 1534, which I believe was intended for a Panzer IV H.

I was thinking about addin it to a Early Dragon Stug IV

Any help would be greatly apprecaited

Cheers Mike
PantherF
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Indiana, United States
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Posted: Friday, May 18, 2012 - 05:05 PM UTC
I believe the Panzer IV used the ZF SSG75 while the StuG IV used the ZF SSG 76. Both were 6 speeds transmissions.

Google that but I bet they looked the same.








~ Jeff
Tanksami
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Posted: Friday, May 18, 2012 - 06:55 PM UTC
Thsnks Jeff,

I will do as is one of the opitions for the stug campaign

Cheers Mike
SdAufKla
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Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 02:11 AM UTC
Hey Mike,

The Verlinden resin interior is "close enough for government work." Here's my StuG IV with the same resin conversion set:

Armorama::Early Stug IV to Late COnversion

So little of the tranny is visible through the driver's hatch that the Verlinden set is perfectly adequate. Note that the driver's seat and the main gun amo stowage box behind the driver's seat are quite different in the StuG IV vs. the Pz. IV (all versions).

HTH,
PantherF
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Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 02:19 AM UTC
That's an incredible build there Mike!









~ Jeff
Tanksami
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Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 09:21 AM UTC
Hi Mike,

Wow what a fantastic job you have done on that!!! Waayyy out of my league but certainly something to aspire too!!! I am going to model the drivers hatch closed but with the tranny cover off..at least that is the idea!! I will run with the looks close enough to me rule for the transmission unless I can find a cheap as chips correct one. Question with your new drivers hatch, how did you scribe the rounded corners of it?? I have never done anything like that before.
Hope you don't mind if i try & model some of the interior off your incredible build


Cheers Mike
SdAufKla
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Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 03:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

... Question with your new drivers hatch, how did you scribe the rounded corners of it?? I have never done anything like that before.
Hope you don't mind if i try & model some of the interior off your incredible build


Cheers Mike



Hi Mike,

Thanks for the kind words. Hey, no "copy right" on any of that build! The interior details are just the interior details... If my build can help you out with any of the layout, I'm glad that you can use it!

In regards to the radiused interior corners for the driver's hatch opening: I matched the curves of the kit opening to the closest sized drill bit that I had. Half of that drill diameter equals the actual radius to be used on the new opening.

I then laid out the overall opening size as a rectangle. I then laid out another smaller interior rectangle that was smaller on each side by an amount equal to the radius establised above. The corners (actually intersecting lines) of the inner rectangle mark the center points for for holes drilled with the bit selected above.

If done correctly, the edges of the four holes will intersect (as tangents) the exterior sized rectangle.

Now, using the layout lines of the exterior rectangle, connect (by cutting out) the four holes.

The result is a rectangular opening with corners radiused by half the diameter (radius) of the drilled holes.

It all sounds complicated, but the essential process is to drill four holes that are connected. The description of the layout is important only to ensure that the opening is the correct size.

I then used the new hatch opening as a template to scribe the new hatch so that it would fit the new opening.

Hope this answers the mail...

@ Jeff: Thanks also for the props!
Tanksami
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Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2012 - 04:57 PM UTC
Hi Mike,

Thank you very much for the approval to copy some of your details & ideas, i am going to make an early stug IV so a couple of questions if you don't mind.

1) Would the drivers seat be the same from an early to late stug like you made.

2)How do you tell if the ider wheel is of the cast type?

3) Do you know of any kits that come with the Heckzurrung ( external travel lock) or is it better to try & scratch build one??

4) Does the early dragon kit come with the cast shield around the commanders cupola??

Once again thanks for the help & playing 20 questions

Cheers Mike
chefchris
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Posted: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 11:09 AM UTC
Mike,
Some Stug iv s were actually made from the PanzerIV chassis so either way it would not be out of the realm of possibilities.

Chris
Tanksami
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Posted: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 10:05 PM UTC
Chris,

Thanks for that gives me more ideas / leeway

Cheers Mike
SdAufKla
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Posted: Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:01 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Mike,

Thank you very much for the approval to copy some of your details & ideas, i am going to make an early stug IV so a couple of questions if you don't mind.

1) Would the drivers seat be the same from an early to late stug like you made.

2)How do you tell if the ider wheel is of the cast type?

3) Do you know of any kits that come with the Heckzurrung ( external travel lock) or is it better to try & scratch build one??

4) Does the early dragon kit come with the cast shield around the commanders cupola??

Once again thanks for the help & playing 20 questions

Cheers Mike



Hi Mike,

Sorry for the slow reply. I've been out of town and not able to check the forums as I would like.

1) I believe that the StuG IV driver's seat was changed from the Pz IV seat. The design that I copied was from the StuG IV in the Poznan Museum in Poland (the only one I know of that has been photographed on the inside).

It's possible that the seat design that I used was actually the same as used in the Pz IV by that time. (The Verlinden up-date set is for a very early Pz IV.) The StuG IV was a very poor design from the driver's egonomic point of view, and must have been very uncomfortable to drive. The driver was seated to the right of his periscopes, and so he must have been forced to lean over to his left continously between looking at where his was going and reaching the controls.

The seat design in the museum StuG was adjustable forward and aft and the back rest was also adjustable forward and rearward.

The 75mm ammo stowage box that is to the rear of the driver's seat is different than that used in the Pz IV. The Pz IV ammo stowage box will not work in the StuG IV because of the design of the StuG's fighting compartment.

2) The only way to tell if the ideler is the cast type is to look at a photo of the vehicle in question. Most photos do show the the "tubular" design, so I belive that was actually the most common type used on the StuG IV. However, both types were used at the same time.

I went with the cast design just because I thought it was more interesting.

3) I believe that there are a couple of StuG III kits that have the external travel lock. I found it easier and more economical to just scratch-build the thing rather than pirate it from another kit. The new DML StuG IV Late kit comes with it.

4) The DML StuG IV Early kit comes with two styles of shot deflectors for the commander's cupola. One is slightly more angular (almost "faceted") and the other slightly more rounded. My research suggested that both designs were used at the same time, and I actually think that they represent just slight sub-contractor or manufacturer's variations (possibly variations in the molds used to cast them or the dies used to stamp them - as I'm not entirely convinced that they were all cast).

My research also suggested that the rounded variant was more common, so that's what I used. Note that in either case, the welds attaching the deflector to the hull roof and cupola are missing.

The very early StuG IV's (the first 15 or so built in Dec 43-Jan 44) were built on Pz IV chassis diverted from regular tank production (not re-built tanks - but on entirely new chassis). The DML StuG IV kit can be built into one of these using the alternate front fender parts and by adding Zimmerit.

Check out this page on our AMPS club website:

AMPS Central SC::Group Builds & Demos

There are several sets of building notes for the StuG IV right up front. We discuss just about all of the building options for the DML StuG IV Early kit, but if I can help with any other questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Happy modeling!
recceboy
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Posted: Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 04:57 PM UTC
Mike

If you need Stug IV photos shoot me a PM , as I have lots from the restoration of the Stug IV in Poznan, Poland.

Anthony
Tanksami
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Friday, May 25, 2012 - 12:24 AM UTC
Mike,

Thank you very much for answering all my questions & then some & I will certainly be checking out that site link for sure & taking notes!!

Anthony

Thank you very much for the very kind offer of sharing your "intell" I have fired off a Pm reply.

Once again thank you both very much

Cheers Mike & Happy Modeling
SdAufKla
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Posted: Friday, May 25, 2012 - 12:03 PM UTC
Not to steal your thread, Mike, but Anthony helped me out with some photos of critical internal areas when I was building my StuG IV.

So, don't hesitate to take him up on his offer - He's a stand-up kinda guy!

Thanks again, Anthony!
recceboy
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Friday, May 25, 2012 - 03:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Not to steal your thread, Mike, but Anthony helped me out with some photos of critical internal areas when I was building my StuG IV.

So, don't hesitate to take him up on his offer - He's a stand-up kinda guy!

Thanks again, Anthony!



Mike

Just happy to help out a fellow AMPS member and anyone who needs help......

Anthony
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