Ok guys, I am at the stage where i need to add a clear flat to my Panzer IVJ. I have never used a clear flat before, so i have some questions.
1:I bought MM flat acryl today. While i was looking for it, i was suprised to see it is white in color. I am assuming this is the norm?
2: what is the best prep to use this stuff? Mechinal stir, manual stir or shake? For the record i do not own a mechanical paint mixer.
3: When airbrushing, what size tips/needles do you recommend? How far to keep the tip from the model?
I believe i have read that it is good straight from the bottle.
Thanks all.
Marc

Don't worry about the white color, dries clear. For me I shake the bottle, vigorously, then give it a little stir when I open it. I use it write out of the bottle in my Paasche VL, with the #3 tip and needle. I run about 18 lbs of pressure on regulator, and apply thin coats. It dries fast, but don't let it pool. I will apply about 3 thin coats in one spray session. Hope that helps.

Thanks Kevin.
I have the same AB, so the advice is good.
Wish me luck!

Marc;

Hi! As noted, it appears white in the bottle. That is because these acrylic "clear flat" paints do have some solid material in them. They are NOT like applying distilled water or straight paint-thinner or alcohol to a kit.

It will provide a softly "flat" coat when applied - that flat property is the result of a reduced load of semi-transparent "matte" - a finely-ground neutral-color pigment - combined with a low-sheen vehicle or fluid base for the paint (having a suspended pigment material is the critical element to get a flat finish - which is why flat paints dry flat. They have thin, low-sheen vehicles and a large load of finely-ground pigment. Glossy paints include a high-sheen vehicle component to add on that shine over the pigment.). So, the more you put on, the more pigment you build up. Apply a lot, and you will get an increasing "dusting" - a lightening effect rather like spraying on very thinned white paint! And as noted before, avoid pooling, as this will produce light "tide marks". The darker the base coat being covered, the more risk of both lightening effects and tide-marks being visible.

When I use this stuff, it's applying it in very thin coats over the entire kit, letting each dry completely and determining whether an additional coat is desired. Using some "stand-off" distance will enhance the dulling effect for the amount of clear flat applied.

I have found that you can actually get a better "flat" effect by mixing the clear flat about 1 in 3 with Future! Makes for a nice, hard, finely-flat coat!

Good luck! Bob