Apparently there are two kinds of MasterClub tracks: clickable and workable. Can anyone tell me the difference? I guess I just assumed the clickable tracks were workable, and vice versa, but maybe not. I've never used MC tracks but I thought maybe I'd give them a try.
Resin aftermarket tracks for modern vehicles aren't easy to find. But I found a company called M&M that sells them. Has anyone bought anything from them before?

http://home.earthlink.net/~mmodels/

M&M models is a great Mom & Pop type store. I by a lot from them. I bought some workable masterclub tracks from them a few months ago. The workable tracks have tiny resin pins that hold the links together, they look like very nice tracks. I don't know much about the clickable as I haven't seen any being used.

The resin pins are a MAJOR P.I.T.A. They look superb, but be prepared for a lot of close work. You get plenty of pins, so if one or two get lost, not to worry. But a drop (and I mean a SMALL DROP) of CA glue is advisable to keep the pins in. You may also in some cases have to drill out the opening a bit, as the pins will disintegrate if too much pressure or torque is applied to them.

The same is true for Trumpeter's workable tracks. And Trumpeter doesn't give you much in the way of extra bolts/pins. However the Trumpeter styrene pins are a lot easier to use with the way their system is designed.

I used the clickable Masterclub tracks on the Trumpeter PT-76. The plastic is very fragile and brittle so it is easy to break off the guidehorns. I initially blew through a half dozen tracks before I got the hang of it, and even then I had some problems along the way, particularly when trying to unite sections of track. I had a couple unbroken links left over, and a dozen or more that were unusable. I'm not satisfied how one side turned out and will probably replace it if I see a good deal.

Tim

Thanks guys!