I would like if someone could explain to me what are the different types of tank treads, and how do you put on and paint the different types?

I hope you meant tank tread types in kit form. Tank treads are either metal or rubber faced. Kit treads come in single length (rubber band style)which may be stiff vinyl, soft vinyl, or a gluable material., link and length, which has long track runs and individual link sections combined, and individual link sets where all links are separate. Some individual link sets are snap fit and workable, some use wire or pins to attach the links, and some must be glued link by link, and may be workable or not. Kit tracks are styrene, aftermarket metal tracks are also available.

For rubber band style, you connect the two ends, usually with some locator pins on one end, matching holes on the other. Old style tracks use a heated tool to flatten the pins. Newer tracks use regular modeling cement or CA glue. Older vinyl tracks are hard to get paint to adhere to, which is part of the reason the aftermarket industry is so big. Newer tracks will accept paint much easier. Prime the tracks and then paint over them.

Link and length tracks and individual link tracks are assembled in similar ways, with the tracks mating together. Workable systems are easier to put on a tank because you can work with them. The flex and sag on their own. Gluable links must be formed around the running gear. Look at photos of the tank you are building, ask questions and post photos to see if you have it right. Tanks with live tracks, such as the M4 medium (Sherman) won't show sag. Tanks with dead tracks (WWII German as an example) will have sag in the tracks, where they will hang from gravity between support points.



In all cases, it is easiest to assemble tracks by not permanently attaching the idler and drive sprocket. That way you can put the tracks on, set them how you want, and then remove them. Also, make sure the tracks are facing the right direction and check to see if they are "handed" for the tank.

For painting, use a good primer, then paint how they should appear. What I have done is this. For a Sherman,with single length "rubber band" type tracks, these in Dragon styrene. I will go over the face of the rubber track shoes with sand paper to create some wear, then get the track tension set right. Then remove the tracks, prime with flat brown. I then paint the end connectors, hitting wear points with steel. I'll do washes with umber and sienna colors to create some variation in the color. I paint the track shoes an off black color. Then I'll again do a wash, highlight the wear points again, rub in some powdered pastel, set back on the model, and finish the weathering sequence.

For individual link tracks, I assemble the tracks in short runs, 10 links usually. I test fit the tracks to make sure they will fit around the drive sprocket. I also check to see where the tracks and drive sprocket would wear from contact. Once I have a run complete, I will set the run on the tank, checking for direction and "handing". On a panzer III I set the sag, using Q-tips along the top of the run. I did not connect the ends of the track run. Once set, I removed the tracks, again primed in brown, then some washes to create a varied effect. Again, I use steel, dry brushing on both sides to show wear. I also use a graphite pencil to add some highlights. I will again add some powdered pastels and then put the tracks back on the tank to finish it. My joint is set under a road wheel.

For single length tracks that need sag, I will use CA glue or model cement on the idlers and form the track around the idler to push the track down and force the sag.

There are other, better and more complete techniques that can be found in the search bar above. If you have a specific vehicle in mind you can ask more questions relative to it. Hope this helps.

Thank you this really helped!