What is the best method for representing vehicle markings on zimmerit?

I would think that zimmerit would unnaturally alter the shape and size of decals, while the uneven surface would make it tough to get a sharp edge from a paint stencil or template.

Thoughts? Tips? Tricks?

I have got excellent results getting my decals to set in the zimm just using micro-set + micro-sol.

just take a look at the panther,jagdpanther,and tiger in my photos,those are decals on zimm,and I think they look good.

I'll second what Anthony said about micro set and micro sol. I apply some sol on the surface where the decal will go, place the decal, apply more sol over the top, then wet a fingertip with sol and press the decal down. I know the normal rule says don't touch a decal after applying sol, but with a little practice I've had good results using this method with zim.

Chris

Hi!

My opinion?

Best way to get a marking which was sprayed onto the original using a stencil over zimm is to spray it on using a stencil over your zimm.

Filling of the "hill and valley" zimm surface will indeed distort decals. To what degree will depend on the thickness of the decal and the grain or size / depth of your zimmerit.

What Anthony and Ed have provided is, I think, your best approach for setting in markings using decals. And I'll take their word for it. I've never done a decal over zimm but have seen many builds where folks have done so and they came out looking pretty good. Sometimes a little bit distorted, and almost always "too-perfect and too-consistently-filled-in on the zimm pattern."

Real markings were sprayed or brushed on using stencils (or brushed without stencils). It is unlikely that most such markings were either completely or consistently filling down into the pattern. And all such markings were the "correct intended shape and dimensions".

IMHO, the "only" really true-appearing marking will be one which you either spray on with a stencil or brush on with or without a stencil. This will give you both the correct over-all dimensions AND the application effect (i.e., no known decal will give you any version of a marking which mostly "hit" only the hill-ridges and did not evenly and consistently fill down into those valleys).

Getting the appropriate crispness and any degree of "valley-filling" is easy with a stencil. I would highly recommend going the stencil route.

Just my opinion, of course!

Bob

I've had no problems at all using Micro-Sol and -Set for decals on Zimmerit. You may have to use MANY applications of either/both, but they have settled perfectly for me. However, there IS the issue of the potential distortion of the decals, given that the 'melding' into the hills and valleys of the Zimmerit, I guess, can foreshorten the decals vertically. But I've really not noticed that enough to bother me, honestly. I think I'd agree with Bob that the IDEAL situation is to do a spray with a template, but if you're not good with that kind of thing (I am not!), the decals seem to work just fine. Again, simply do not be afraid to keep adding more coats of the Micro-stuff until the decal settles the way you want you want it to.

I have to agree with the others....micro sol and set works fantastically over zimmerit. Have used this system for many years and it has never let me down.
Below are two examples ... Italeri´s old Bergetiger with molded on zimmerit and Dragons Panther A with Atak zimmerit. It worked perfectly and looks pretty straight regardless of the zimmerit. Looking closer will show quite a good sharp edge, and any roughness to this would be natural enough. The decals in the Dragon kit have to be the thickest carrying film I have ever seen and took a lot of microset to get them in place, but now they almost look painted on. I use future before and afterwards to seal.

Thanks for the tips. I'm not sure if my skeelz are quite where they should be to attempt to paint the markings, so I'll try decals first.

If I don't like the look, I can always give the "painted on" a try. Eventually, I think I'd like to end up there anyhow...

Chris;

Hi again!

Stencils are EASY. You simply tape the stencil in place - metal stencils or plastic or paper will all bend and form to things like turret curvature, etc. - and spray the color of choice. Where, as in examples such as posted above you have an outline number, you will use two stencils - the first will be the outline color and may be either a real outline stencil or simply a larger version of the desired numeral. You position and spray that color. Pop that stencil off, and position the inner "solid" color stencil and spray that.

It's very easy and very very FAST. MUCH faster than applying and solve-setting decals. NO Future application patch, no solvaset applications, etc. I position and tape my stencils on and give them a couple of light passes with the AB, and pluck the stencil and tape off. Voila!, as some might say!

Stencils are no more perfect than are decals, to be sure. The tough part (every technique has its moments ) in the case of stenciling "2-color" things like a black in white balkankreuz, etc., is to get the second stencil "registered" or correctly centered over the first marking. Most stencil-sets make this actually very easy and reliable by making correct matched stencil-pairs which you align on a tape or metal straight-edge applied to ensure that both stencils arrive in the right position. It does take a little practice... but then so does decal-application, so...

Try it out sometime!

Bob