Ok first is paint Testors Used Tire Rubber, which is a really dark brown. An as you noticed I did use the Rustall kit.
Remember to use a No. 2 pencil and rub it over spots, like the chains and edges. I'm not done yet. Now if my memory is right the front of the tracks are thick rubber pads, I haven't weathered the track pads yet but I think they should be a medium gray color like the road wheels.
More progres photos Tomorrow!
Hosted by Darren Baker
USMC Flail Tank.
Captin_Caveman_III
Louisiana, United States
Joined: October 20, 2008
KitMaker: 1,069 posts
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Joined: October 20, 2008
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Armorama: 1,062 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 04:30 PM UTC
pseudorealityx
Georgia, United States
Joined: January 31, 2010
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Joined: January 31, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 11:50 PM UTC
The entire middle portion of the track is rubber. The only steel parts are the end connectors.
Captin_Caveman_III
Louisiana, United States
Joined: October 20, 2008
KitMaker: 1,069 posts
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Joined: October 20, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, September 13, 2012 - 04:18 AM UTC
He's right but any thing rubber or not being rolled over will pick up rust dust.
The DML/Cyber Hobby Magic tracks are not so magic. The tracks are to long. An if you don't have any plastic tracks your going to have to cut these tracks down to fit.
First your going to need to remove the sprocket wheel and idler wheel to fit the tracks.
Here I cut down the rubber tracks and fited tham...
This is the last time your going to see the under side of this tank. Once it's dry, I'll rub off the heavy mud and glue the lower half to it's top.
The DML/Cyber Hobby Magic tracks are not so magic. The tracks are to long. An if you don't have any plastic tracks your going to have to cut these tracks down to fit.
First your going to need to remove the sprocket wheel and idler wheel to fit the tracks.
Here I cut down the rubber tracks and fited tham...
This is the last time your going to see the under side of this tank. Once it's dry, I'll rub off the heavy mud and glue the lower half to it's top.
Captin_Caveman_III
Louisiana, United States
Joined: October 20, 2008
KitMaker: 1,069 posts
Armorama: 1,062 posts
Joined: October 20, 2008
KitMaker: 1,069 posts
Armorama: 1,062 posts
Posted: Friday, September 14, 2012 - 03:45 PM UTC
Sorry I can't post any new photos as Photobucket is acting stupid to night.
Captin_Caveman_III
Louisiana, United States
Joined: October 20, 2008
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Joined: October 20, 2008
KitMaker: 1,069 posts
Armorama: 1,062 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2012 - 02:41 PM UTC
At this time it's still not done yet...
Tiger_213
California, United States
Joined: August 10, 2012
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Joined: August 10, 2012
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Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 - 08:17 PM UTC
Very nice for something that's 'still not done yet'. Do you happen to know what size chain you used? 1mm links or so? Verlindens has cast resin from what I understand and those'll HAVE to be replaced. D-day era Crabs didn't have ball and chain flails but there's no way in hell I'm making the bicycle links! They also used heavy duty shackles for in-theater repairs.
PantherF
Indiana, United States
Joined: June 10, 2005
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Joined: June 10, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 - 10:56 PM UTC
I was about to say the same... looks done to me!
On this build the paint really hides all the pain and effort. Nice work.
~ Jeff
On this build the paint really hides all the pain and effort. Nice work.
~ Jeff
ericadeane
Michigan, United States
Joined: October 28, 2002
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Joined: October 28, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 - 03:45 AM UTC
To Christopher: Why do you say the Verlinden cast resin flails need to be changed? I have the set and I think they look usable to me.
Captin_Caveman_III
Louisiana, United States
Joined: October 20, 2008
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Joined: October 20, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 - 10:18 AM UTC
Well thanks but it's not done yet. I glued the top half to the lower half with latex rubber so I could pull it apart. I want to scratchbuild and interior for the lower hull, I don't know if I want to build the turrets interior., but we will see once I start that part of the build...
I showed at our local clubs Regional 6 Convention. Won nothing...
Oh and I for got to tell you I told the judgs not to judge the hole covers as a true part of the tank. What a big mistake., they went on and judge the covers and told me that they were not shpaed right and that pulled points away for the peace. An that there was one peace of photo etch missing for the flail drum.
I'll start the interior work in a few days..
I showed at our local clubs Regional 6 Convention. Won nothing...
Oh and I for got to tell you I told the judgs not to judge the hole covers as a true part of the tank. What a big mistake., they went on and judge the covers and told me that they were not shpaed right and that pulled points away for the peace. An that there was one peace of photo etch missing for the flail drum.
I'll start the interior work in a few days..
Tiger_213
California, United States
Joined: August 10, 2012
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Posted: Monday, October 15, 2012 - 04:18 PM UTC
Roy, my understanding of the Verlinden flails is that they're cast resin. I order to create more realistic looking flails I would like a natural 'droop' from the chains, hence I'll replace them.
RotorHead67
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 07, 2003
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Joined: May 07, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 05:24 PM UTC
After the new mount is dry I'll add the gun.
Oh and before any one comes up with something moren for me to add I'm going on and start the paint work![/quote]
Now Cave:
Don't get testy with the kiddies. Great build dude, keep up
The great work. Those Chains would be in the same category
as Indy Links Why can't this be over.!!!!!!