Hello--I am starting the 1/35 Academy TigerI early and am doing it in Panzer gray. I have never used a wash to weather so my question is how do I make a wash and how do I apply it? I am using enamel paint to spray the main color. What do I use for the wash? Enamel as well? Thanks---John

Hi John

I'm new to the Military stuff but a fairly seasoned 1/6th scale figure painter.
I would consider a acrylic base coat such as Tamiya, then a slightly darker wash to punch in the recessed areas to provide some dark to light contrast.
Mixing a darker grey out of a water based paint such as Liquitex with a drop of dish soap will allow the wash to spread evenly over the model without beading on the surface. Basically a dab of paint mixed with water thoroughly so when you brush it over newspaper you can still read the words.Your paint/ water ratio may be adjusted more or less or darker or lighter depending on the look your after. your more tinting the model than blocking in a new color. You can also dab off excess with a q-tip or paper towel. Enamel washes work great as well, i think you just need to experiment a bit to get a handle on what gives you the look your after. I'm sure others have great ideas as well.

John

If you use an enamel wash over an enamel paint job you run the risk of disolving your base paint job. The thinner you will use in the enamel wash will also wash the paint right off! When using a wash it's better to use one of a different medium than of the underlying paint. In your case use an acrylic wash over enamel paint. If you paint with acrylics then use an oil wash. If you have an airbush, or purchase one in the future, you will find it much more convenient to paint with acrylics, spray on a barrier of Future (the acrylic liquid polish), and then use the oil wash. Enamel fumes are really toxic!

You may use enamel wash,if you protect your enamel paint with an acrylic clearcoat.

Thanks. Changed my mind on the color but still using enamel spray for main color. I think a Tunisian green Tiger is more interesting. Maybe some of that "stolen" U S olive drab? ---John

Here's the start of my Tiger I. As stated it will be a green early Tiger I from N. Africa, Tunisia to be exact. I am using TRAKZ aftermarket decals with everything else OOB. I have the turret and gun assembled and the interior painted Panzer Interior Buff , Model Master acrylic. The Academy kit I have is not the full interior but I was going to leave the hatches open and also may use a couple figures. The barrel is assembled and only placed in position as a test fit. I still have to sand both turret and barrel before I go any further. Here' a few pictures.---John

I have the turret top glued in place. It has one nasty seam which needed putty in the rear. Probably wouldn't be seen after I paint and add the rear stowage box. What color would the uniforms have been for a DAK tank crew in early 1943?---John

I sanded the turret and barrel. I then built the stowage box and glued it,the barrel and the rear hatch in place. Now comes the tedious part of painting the rubber on the road wheels.---John

First, the "green Tiger" is mostly a myth. The tanks were shipped to Africa in tropen camo. Check out the Bovington Tiger. It was clearly painted RAL 7008/8000, under all the years of "upkeep".

Second the uniforms would be Olive, just as every other tropical uniform. These were new as the troops were formed up and shipped right over with the tanks. They quickly faded and many different shades are possible.

G

Mostly a myth? Hmmmmmmm. Thanks for the uniform information. I will check out the Bovington tank scheme. I am also confused about the headlights. Some pictures show none, some show one in the center and others show 2 but lower on special brackets lower than on the Academy kit. Any opinions?---John

Making enamel washes on an enamel base coat is not problem, but you have to allow time for the base coat to cure and know your thinner. I have done this many times using Humbrol paints. If left for 24 hours and using Humrols own enamel thinner you do not need an acrylic coat between them. I cannot speak for other thinners ... this is something you should experiment with to "know" your thinner and what you can and cannot do.
Overall washes and pin washes around detail do add depth to details,and is a great technique to learn and worth the effort.
When thinning your enamel, if its starts to look grainy/lumpy, the wash will not be successful. The best results I have had is to make the wash and let it sit for 30 minutes so the pigments really dilute and it flows really well. Id definately recommend practise first. Save some of your cut away sprues, spay them with the same base colour/paint and use these for testing first. Always start on the hull bottom to get the feel and make sure its working like you imagined. It will get better as you progress, so all the initial attempts will be invisible on the bottom. And last but not least, if you want a stark panel line, dont try to do it all in one go ... wait for 24 hours and make it again. Several washes work better than one very heavy wash. Good luck.

One of the modifications before shipping to Africa was moving the headlights. The Africa Tigers had them mounted on different brackets lower than the stock position. Most often crews took the lights off and stowed them in the hull before combat. That accounts for the differences.

In the states I use "Mona Lisa" brand "Odorless Paint Thinner" for my washes over enamel. It is very weak and a properly cured base coat of enamel is not effected by it.

G

If you want to correct details like that, it's a long road!
The first thing to straighten out is that there were two units using Tigers in Africa; heavy tank battalions 501 and 504.
The Academy kit is much closer to the 504's Tigers than the 501. If you stick with 504, leave the headlights where they are.

David

thanks for the headlight info. I did a little work on the 2 crew members I am using. I still have a few details to pick out.---John

Been a while, Got caught up in other projects and life in general. I have progressed a bit and now have the hull painted. I think things will go a bit faster once the road wheels are assembled and painted.---John