Hello guys
I know that most of you know how to do this but there always is a first time for somebody so I think itīs useful. Itīs about adding weight to the vynil tracks so they will look more realistic.
http://fcmodeltips.blogspot.com.es/2012/09/caida-en-las-cadenas-de-goma.html
I hope you like it
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Tutorial, how to weight vynil tracks
freddietello
Alicante, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: May 18, 2012
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Joined: May 18, 2012
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Posted: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 - 07:08 PM UTC
SnakeEye
Rodopi, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 23, 2004
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Joined: June 23, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 - 06:47 AM UTC
Thanks for the useful information Federico.
Spiderfrommars
Milano, Italy
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 - 07:42 AM UTC
Sorry but...wouldn't it be risky for the styrene parts? Hot air might deform them
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 19, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 - 11:39 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Sorry but...wouldn't it be risky for the styrene parts? Hot air might deform them
it's only a hairdryer not a hot air paint stripper. With all sources of heat it's a question of keeping it moving and not getting too close. Good for drying paint or drying off after washing a model prior to painting.
PantherF
Indiana, United States
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Posted: Thursday, September 27, 2012 - 10:34 PM UTC
Some of todays hair dryers do have the capability of doing a lot of damage to your plastic model, so excercise great care and use the lowest setting if possible.
~ Jeff
~ Jeff
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, September 29, 2012 - 05:38 PM UTC
This is a nice trick, didn't even think about it. Thanks for sharing!
Just of note, I use hair dryers to restore vinyl interior components in vehicles such as door panels and the strength/heat of a blow dryer isn't what matters. What is important is your technique with waving it slowly back and forth across the surface. Working with a model is perfect because it gives you and ideal 5" +/- area to work with. This spread is most natural for your arm and allows the area to remain gently heated without melting anything. The melting of hard parts shouldn't be a problem at all. Just gently move back and forth while making small circular motions and you should have the entire track length evenly heated in a very short time.
Just of note, I use hair dryers to restore vinyl interior components in vehicles such as door panels and the strength/heat of a blow dryer isn't what matters. What is important is your technique with waving it slowly back and forth across the surface. Working with a model is perfect because it gives you and ideal 5" +/- area to work with. This spread is most natural for your arm and allows the area to remain gently heated without melting anything. The melting of hard parts shouldn't be a problem at all. Just gently move back and forth while making small circular motions and you should have the entire track length evenly heated in a very short time.