I'm finally trying to learn how to do washes on my models but so far I
haven't been successful... so in order to help me out I hope someone can
answer these questions.

First of all, how much thinner and how much paint should the wash consist
of.

And what is the best "thinning" agent for Humbrol enamels or Tamiyas acrylics??

And when applying the wash, what technique should be used, lots of wash and
let it run down the surface, or just applying around the details?

Well, that's all I can think of right now, but if I come up with something
more, I'll just ask.

Thomas.

Picture of my first attempt:
http://hem.passagen.se/tbviper/test2.html

Hello Thomas, For the record, I am not an expert, And I only started doing washing for my last few AFVs, the idea I got from this site and other sites are as follows:

1) The media you do your wash with should be "dirtied" thinner, rather than thinned down paints. They should be really really thin. I learnt from one of the Armorama guy here, Mr. Vukich is I swirl a tooth pick with a little bit of artist's oil in a small jar of tupentine slowly, until it all dissolved. And I use it for my wash.

2) Don't over do them, because if you are not happy with the first few washes, you can always go back for more. But if you overdo them, you will end up with something very very dark.

3) I apply localized wash to details, and try my best not do an overall wash, unless the AFV is coated with zimmerit, then i like to do an overall wash.

4) Coat your model with a glossy over coat before doing the wash. I use Gunze glossy coat, and also tried Future, both are quite alright for me.

Hope it will help, but I am sure there will be more advise from other seasoned modellers. And my advise to this is to absorb as much knowledge as you possibly can. their advises are great! One more thing, go buy a cheap kit and practice on it.

Have fun. :-)

The thing with the wash is that it should be tinted thinner and not thinned paint. It should flow freely from your brush. I think you should try to practice on some older models and see which consistency of thinner/paint works the best for you... After couple of tries (usually frustrating ones) you will get the feel of things.

I use Humbrol paints and Humbrol thinner (sometimes Revell's too as it is enamel based). Works good for me.

Mario M.

I have only used ink washes, so I can´t really tell you about the others. But the Pelikan sepia waterproof ink works with water, or even without any thinning.
The technique depends on what you are trying to do with the wash. If you want to accent panel lines or give more depth to corners for example, I wouldn´t soak the whole thing with thinned paint. I tried moistening the brush with thinner, then putting a little amount of paint in the tip and then painting along the cornerline with the tip of brush in where I want most of the colour to be.
I really recommend the ink. It shines a bit, but you´re gonna give it a flat coat anyway. It´s quite transparent and gives a subtle look especially when thinned down. And runs easilly along panel lines. After that give it a proper pastel chalk treatment and you´ll end up having a sharply detailed, worn look.
:-)
Toni

If you paint with enamels, it might be a good idea to wash your model with acrylics. That way,
if you don't like what you've just done, you've got a better chance of removing it without
dectrouing the rest of your work.
Here is what I've just started using : mix a very little watercolor paint, with plenty of water
and some dishwashing soap.
You should also be able to wash it away with some water and soap.

Watercolours- yes!
Try out also watercolour pencils, you can "draw" spots and small areas and brush it with a moist brush. Works for dried splashes of dirt.

Toni

On practice....use scratch material....

That's what I'm gonna do, when I eventualy will get to the part of washing....

I paint totally with humbrol enamels and when I wash I just let them cure for 3 days and wash with humbrol enamel thinner and oil. I dont use a clear coat as it onlt takes away defination. I have never had any problems with this. Somebodys advise was "a wash should be coloured thinner, not thinned paint". Basically use just enough oils to colour the thinner. If you feel that afterwards there is not enough of a wash, you can do it again after a day or 2. When I do figures I wash all the figure (excelt skin) sometimes with different colours... depending on what Im doing, but on vehicles I just wash detail... touch the detail lighly with the wet brush. This usually is enough to give the detail character with a little drybrush later.

ok so supposed that I am going to wash my Hanomag painted d-day colors (dunkegelb with olive and brown...what color do I wash it with...can I use rubbing alcohol? what does washing do anyways?

if your going to use a wash i'd suggest sealing the model with a satin varnish as once this has been left to dry it will
a, help spread the wash round
b, protect the base coat from being damaged by the medium for washing it I tried it before
and it lifted all the paint off/wrinkled it up and weakend the plastic parts so they fell off
so take a dark colour like black/brown/grey mix it with white spirit (enamel paints) are best to use for this add a little of the paint until you get dirty thinner and then you can either
apply it to the whole model or using a very fine brush apply it around bolts rivets ect this gives the effect of dirting up the model and making it look more life like once this has dried you can dry brush the raised detail with a slighlty lightened colour of the base coat add some white to the dunkelgelb this will give some nice contrasts to the kit and make the little details stand out more
in a nut shell washes make the details stand out and help put shadows into areas were pannels meats coners ect and give it the used look

what direction do u use for drybrushing? or washing? if u coat it with satin varnish (is that before u wasy?) can u just ignore that step?

I'd coat it frist before the wash as the varnish helps move it around and protects the paint used as the base coat it also helps in that if you dont like the wash you can clean it off and start again also dont use satin for the varnish thats my fault use gloss instead then once done with washing ect put a layer of matt varnish to dull it down you can apply washes in any direction just play with it and see what effects you get :-)

There is no "'direction" in doing your wash. Dip you brush inthe medium, and dab it in panel lines, at corners and at the base of raised detail. Capilary action will draw the medium along. Rather than dirtying your model, you should be trying to adding shadow and definition. Personally, I don't like the effect of acrylics for a wash, regardless of the base color. I think the pigments tend to be too big and clumpy. For youir three color Hanomag, I'd choose black or payne's gray, a very dark gray that is enutarl in tone. It won't shift the color, just add definition.
Since you should do the washing AFTER you've applied any decals, you are de facto doing it on a glossy surface, but I don't find this an absolute necessity. Flat coats will usually allow for a softer demarcation beteween the wash and the base coat.