Hey troops,
On Saturday my friend is hosting a Gamesquest
http://gamesquest.ca/
He asked me to host the workshops;
20+ minutes - Basic Modeling, Basic Painting, Advanced Weathering Techniques.
Has anyone here ever done something like this?
My plan was to go over some basic hand tools, safety tips and basic construction. For the paint portion I was thinking of explaining different paints, airbrushing and brush painting and maybe some dry-brushing. For the weathering I'm thinking of washes, pigments, chipping techniques and maybe oil dot method.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
cheers
Hosted by Darren Baker
Modeling seminar
sauceman
Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 28, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 01:44 PM UTC
junglejim
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 01:51 PM UTC
You pretty much got it Rick. Bring an unbuilt model or two, show them proper clean up, types of cement to use, tools you use etc. 20 minutes (each?) will fly by. Demos can be pretty straight forward, just show 'em what you do when you build, and be prepared for some...interesting questions .
Jim
Jim
sauceman
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 - 12:48 AM UTC
Thanks Jim,
That was pretty much my plan. I will bring some finished kits to show what the final product looks like. The WarHammer stuff will be the main attraction, if nothing else I'll get some quality seat time at the workbench!
If your in the Kingston area stop on by the base!
cheers
That was pretty much my plan. I will bring some finished kits to show what the final product looks like. The WarHammer stuff will be the main attraction, if nothing else I'll get some quality seat time at the workbench!
If your in the Kingston area stop on by the base!
cheers
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Joined: May 07, 2010
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 - 02:44 AM UTC
Richard,
As Jim says, your time will fly by. 20 minutes is hardly enough time to cover any one of the broad subjects that you've listed, much less all three. You might see if you can "negotiate" with your friend to see if you can get more time - maybe an hour?
I would also suggest that for each "segment" of your demo, you plan out the sequence of the tasks / techniques that you want to show and prepare a head of time examples of parts or figures at that stage of the build. Have some notes for yourself that you can refer to if you get off track.
So, for example, for basic assembly you might show how to cut parts off the sprue, then you might show how your trim and file the mold seams from the parts, but instead of taking 5-minutes to clean up some particular part, you just briefly show how you use your X-acto knfe first followed up by a needle file and sand paper (or what ever your personal sequence is...).
You can then take a couple of parts that are already cleaned up and show how you glue them together. Show how you dry-fit first to be sure of a good fit and how you apply the glue. But only glue two parts together rather than try to assemble an entire figure.
You can then take a completely assembled figure and explain how you undercoat with Chaos Black spray paint, maybe show the figure taped down to a piece of cardboard and hold up the spray can. Maybe spray a single light coat on only one side to show how you use light, multiple coats rather than a single heavy one, but then stop there.
(BTW: In so far as airbrushing, maybe just hold up an airbrush and tell the audience what it is and how it's useful, but don't spend too much time. Any model builder ready to move to an airbrush is already past an "introductory" demo at the level I think you're aiming for. Consider that for a later, more "advanced" seminar.)
You then move to a figure already base coated with black to show how you block in the basic colors by brush. Explain how you thin the paint, how you clean the brushes, etc, but only briefly demonstrate any actual brush painting.
You then move to another already undercoated figure with the basic colors painted on and show how you apply inks or washes, but again only briefly demonstrate any actual painting. Maybe just put the ink on a single arm or leg.
Next would be a figure base coated, washed/inked, and ready for, say, dry-brushing. You'd then explain what dry-brushing is, show how you get the paint brush ready and remove most of the paint, and then, again, only briefly demonstrate on this figure how to actually dry-brush - maybe again a single arm or leg.
Next would be an example figure already dry-brushed and ready for detail painting. Once again, you show the brushes that you use to detail paint, share some tips maybe on lighting, holding the figure, holding the brush, paint thinning, etc, and only briefly actually paint some detail part.
Finally, you would move to a completely detailed figure and show how you base it with PVA and fine sand and static grass. If you already have a small cup of basing sand, you can quickly put a dollop of Elmer's glue on the base, spread it around with a brush and then dip the base into the sand. Have all of this laid out and ready to use before you start the demo.
If you're doing vehicles, the process would be similar. But at $40 a pop for a Leaman Russ, your examples might have to be sub-assemblies rather than entirely new vehicles until you get to the finishing and painting. You might then have a "Harvey Two-Face" example with some areas still in the raw and others at successively more completed finishing steps.
The key to saving time during the demo is have many examples already prepared showing each step and have all of your tools, paints, ect, ready in the sequence that you want to use them. If your space is limited, you can put all of the stuff for each example/step into a small box and bring that up as you move from each step to the next. You can also pass your examples around to the audience (if it's a small, round-table type demo) so that every one can get a close look at what you've just described.
You might also think about making the title of you demo an "introduction" so that attendees don't have too high expectations, especially if you can't get much more time.
You might also be able to parley your "introduction" into a regular series of workshops covering the various major subject areas in more detail.
Our AMPS club usually has some sort of demo or round-table technique/tool discussion each month, and because of store hours, we have to limit these to only about 30-minutes. You'd be surprised at how fast that time goes by if someone actually spends it doing the modeling work rather than just briefly showing the technique and moving on to the next step.
Even then, things like painting can take a lot of time to show because there are so many steps which use different techniques. Our recent figure painting demos were broken down into 3-parts over three meetings, and we still could have spent twice as much time.
Preparation and a good plan along with examples finished to each step/stage of your process can really maximize the time you do have, though.
Good luck and have fun!
As Jim says, your time will fly by. 20 minutes is hardly enough time to cover any one of the broad subjects that you've listed, much less all three. You might see if you can "negotiate" with your friend to see if you can get more time - maybe an hour?
I would also suggest that for each "segment" of your demo, you plan out the sequence of the tasks / techniques that you want to show and prepare a head of time examples of parts or figures at that stage of the build. Have some notes for yourself that you can refer to if you get off track.
So, for example, for basic assembly you might show how to cut parts off the sprue, then you might show how your trim and file the mold seams from the parts, but instead of taking 5-minutes to clean up some particular part, you just briefly show how you use your X-acto knfe first followed up by a needle file and sand paper (or what ever your personal sequence is...).
You can then take a couple of parts that are already cleaned up and show how you glue them together. Show how you dry-fit first to be sure of a good fit and how you apply the glue. But only glue two parts together rather than try to assemble an entire figure.
You can then take a completely assembled figure and explain how you undercoat with Chaos Black spray paint, maybe show the figure taped down to a piece of cardboard and hold up the spray can. Maybe spray a single light coat on only one side to show how you use light, multiple coats rather than a single heavy one, but then stop there.
(BTW: In so far as airbrushing, maybe just hold up an airbrush and tell the audience what it is and how it's useful, but don't spend too much time. Any model builder ready to move to an airbrush is already past an "introductory" demo at the level I think you're aiming for. Consider that for a later, more "advanced" seminar.)
You then move to a figure already base coated with black to show how you block in the basic colors by brush. Explain how you thin the paint, how you clean the brushes, etc, but only briefly demonstrate any actual brush painting.
You then move to another already undercoated figure with the basic colors painted on and show how you apply inks or washes, but again only briefly demonstrate any actual painting. Maybe just put the ink on a single arm or leg.
Next would be a figure base coated, washed/inked, and ready for, say, dry-brushing. You'd then explain what dry-brushing is, show how you get the paint brush ready and remove most of the paint, and then, again, only briefly demonstrate on this figure how to actually dry-brush - maybe again a single arm or leg.
Next would be an example figure already dry-brushed and ready for detail painting. Once again, you show the brushes that you use to detail paint, share some tips maybe on lighting, holding the figure, holding the brush, paint thinning, etc, and only briefly actually paint some detail part.
Finally, you would move to a completely detailed figure and show how you base it with PVA and fine sand and static grass. If you already have a small cup of basing sand, you can quickly put a dollop of Elmer's glue on the base, spread it around with a brush and then dip the base into the sand. Have all of this laid out and ready to use before you start the demo.
If you're doing vehicles, the process would be similar. But at $40 a pop for a Leaman Russ, your examples might have to be sub-assemblies rather than entirely new vehicles until you get to the finishing and painting. You might then have a "Harvey Two-Face" example with some areas still in the raw and others at successively more completed finishing steps.
The key to saving time during the demo is have many examples already prepared showing each step and have all of your tools, paints, ect, ready in the sequence that you want to use them. If your space is limited, you can put all of the stuff for each example/step into a small box and bring that up as you move from each step to the next. You can also pass your examples around to the audience (if it's a small, round-table type demo) so that every one can get a close look at what you've just described.
You might also think about making the title of you demo an "introduction" so that attendees don't have too high expectations, especially if you can't get much more time.
You might also be able to parley your "introduction" into a regular series of workshops covering the various major subject areas in more detail.
Our AMPS club usually has some sort of demo or round-table technique/tool discussion each month, and because of store hours, we have to limit these to only about 30-minutes. You'd be surprised at how fast that time goes by if someone actually spends it doing the modeling work rather than just briefly showing the technique and moving on to the next step.
Even then, things like painting can take a lot of time to show because there are so many steps which use different techniques. Our recent figure painting demos were broken down into 3-parts over three meetings, and we still could have spent twice as much time.
Preparation and a good plan along with examples finished to each step/stage of your process can really maximize the time you do have, though.
Good luck and have fun!
Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 - 06:05 AM UTC
Be sure to bring tools & stuff for the attendees to touch I see. Don't bring anything you can't afford to have walk away, but anything people can see & touch is worth a thousand words at least.
Bring an example of an exquisitely finished model to show what's possible & to inspire, but keep it in front of you at all times & watch out for poking fingers!
Bring putties & paints & diorama accessories for "touch & feel". There is nothing like a "workshop" to get peopl einpired.
Of course, if there is a model club you attend or would like to promote, bring along their fliers as well. You never know when you might garner another memeber.
Paul
Bring an example of an exquisitely finished model to show what's possible & to inspire, but keep it in front of you at all times & watch out for poking fingers!
Bring putties & paints & diorama accessories for "touch & feel". There is nothing like a "workshop" to get peopl einpired.
Of course, if there is a model club you attend or would like to promote, bring along their fliers as well. You never know when you might garner another memeber.
Paul
sauceman
Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 28, 2006
KitMaker: 2,672 posts
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Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 - 06:17 AM UTC
Thanks for replies!
I think most of my time will be spent just discussing techniques in an open forum type of way. Most of the attendees are most likely going to be young kids with lots of questions. i will bring one or two finished models to show how it will look with all the different styles.
The sessions are going to be 20 mins each X 3. The rest of the time will be just me building and answering questions. The main goal for the event is the gaming tables and my participation is just a little fluf on the side. Don't worry though, I will try my best to recruit more youngsters into the fascinating world of armour building
cheers
I think most of my time will be spent just discussing techniques in an open forum type of way. Most of the attendees are most likely going to be young kids with lots of questions. i will bring one or two finished models to show how it will look with all the different styles.
The sessions are going to be 20 mins each X 3. The rest of the time will be just me building and answering questions. The main goal for the event is the gaming tables and my participation is just a little fluf on the side. Don't worry though, I will try my best to recruit more youngsters into the fascinating world of armour building
cheers
SdAufKla
South Carolina, United States
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Friday, October 12, 2012 - 07:27 AM UTC
Quoted Text
... Most of the attendees are most likely going to be young kids with lots of questions. i will bring one or two finished models to show how it will look with all the different styles.
... The main goal for the event is the gaming tables and my participation is just a little fluf on the side. Don't worry though, I will try my best to recruit more youngsters into the fascinating world of armour building
cheers
Table top gaming and armor modeling aren't mutually exclusive, so you might be surprised at what you see on the tables (if you're not a gamer yourself!).
If you really want to see some phenomenal figure painting, just pick op a copy of Citadel's "White Dwarf" magazine and look at some of their master painter work, or check out the winning entries at just about any "Golden Daemon" or "Slayer" competitions. You'll have a hard time believing that the figures are 28mm gaming figgies! (Some of the free-form designs and unit banners are simply works of art that have to be seen to be believed.)
I know several armor modelers who are also gamers, and who build and paint both 28mm figures and armor as well as larger scale static armor models. They are all, to a guy, very (VERY!) good builders and painters. Heck, I've even been known to dabble in the "dark arts" myself mostly as "decompression" projects since they're no research or pressures to super-detail - just pure model-building fun.
Here's a Baneblade I built just for "giggles and grins":
I wouldn't be surprised at all if you get a lot of interest in your static armor models as well as a lot of detailed questions and interest in your demos!
Sounds like it's going to be a really fun time...
sauceman
Ontario, Canada
Joined: September 28, 2006
KitMaker: 2,672 posts
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Posted: Monday, October 22, 2012 - 02:17 AM UTC
Thanks to everyone for their tips!
The seminar went well, and as this was the first time for us doing this sort of thing so some teething issues came up.
1. The main audience were the Warhammer guys. And they were on a match schedule so any interaction with me was during their lag time between matches. Next time we will time the demo's for the time in between the matches.
2. The weathering aspect of model building was the largest attention getter. Whenever people had a spare minute they would come over and ask how some of the techniques used on my built kits were accomplished.
3. And as far as Warhammer stuff goes the finish must be robust as these are game pieces and are handled frequently. Therefore weathering should be limited to painting techniques such as chipping, drybrushing, washes ect and not so much on pigments (which I use A LOT!)
So thanks again for all your insight and here is a pic of my set-up. My display tanks were my LYNX and my Coyote. I performed some techniques on a T-62 that I had just completed the base coat on.
cheers
The seminar went well, and as this was the first time for us doing this sort of thing so some teething issues came up.
1. The main audience were the Warhammer guys. And they were on a match schedule so any interaction with me was during their lag time between matches. Next time we will time the demo's for the time in between the matches.
2. The weathering aspect of model building was the largest attention getter. Whenever people had a spare minute they would come over and ask how some of the techniques used on my built kits were accomplished.
3. And as far as Warhammer stuff goes the finish must be robust as these are game pieces and are handled frequently. Therefore weathering should be limited to painting techniques such as chipping, drybrushing, washes ect and not so much on pigments (which I use A LOT!)
So thanks again for all your insight and here is a pic of my set-up. My display tanks were my LYNX and my Coyote. I performed some techniques on a T-62 that I had just completed the base coat on.
cheers