Hi again
First of all, thanks to those who have helped with my newbie questions so far. I'm genuinely trying to find the answers before posting!
I've seen techniques where MiG rainmarks or dark wash is blended or excess removed using white spirit. I've tried this but the white spirit I have doesn't touch it, Tamiya thinner also doesn't touch it, but Vallejo thinner removes it altogether (strips it completely rather than blending). I've learned that thinners can be different depending on brand, do I also need a certain type of white spirit? Are there different types?
If I wanted a white spirit for use in blending MiG washes, and also blending oil paint washes what would I use? (The one I have is for thinning solvent based paints and I think this is the problem, is this suitable for enamels but not anything oil based????)
Thanks in advance
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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I'm missing something here
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
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Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 15, 2012 - 11:07 AM UTC
tankglasgow
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2010
KitMaker: 275 posts
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Joined: October 04, 2010
KitMaker: 275 posts
Armorama: 260 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 15, 2012 - 01:16 PM UTC
Hi Andy,
I am by no means an expert and am still learning but this is my method for what it's worth. Spray on base coat (I useTamiya acrylics) spray on coat of "Klear" (already discussed), I believe this protects the more delicate acrylic from the subsequent oil based washes.Then using artists oil paints ie Windsor&Newton use tiny amounts to dot over the surfaces and blend in with thinners using a flat wide brush (I use an old bottle of "Homebase Tupentine Substitute"), You have to be careful here as the pigment in the artists oils is intense and goes a very long way also the turps darkens the surface when wet and if you don't thin enough the colour becomes much more vivid when it dries. (I learnt the hard way!) I haven't used any of the MIG stuff so don't know how that works.
Hope this helps.
I am by no means an expert and am still learning but this is my method for what it's worth. Spray on base coat (I useTamiya acrylics) spray on coat of "Klear" (already discussed), I believe this protects the more delicate acrylic from the subsequent oil based washes.Then using artists oil paints ie Windsor&Newton use tiny amounts to dot over the surfaces and blend in with thinners using a flat wide brush (I use an old bottle of "Homebase Tupentine Substitute"), You have to be careful here as the pigment in the artists oils is intense and goes a very long way also the turps darkens the surface when wet and if you don't thin enough the colour becomes much more vivid when it dries. (I learnt the hard way!) I haven't used any of the MIG stuff so don't know how that works.
Hope this helps.
asmodeuss
Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 19, 2011
KitMaker: 1,389 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Joined: November 19, 2011
KitMaker: 1,389 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 15, 2012 - 01:26 PM UTC
Hey Paul, what is on your bench?!
Indeed a clear coat is sine qua non to oil washes.
I always use The Gary Boggs steps to paint my models
1 – Primer (acrylic)
2 - Paint basecoat, camo, tools, MG's, accessories, etc.(acrylic)
3 - Gloss coat (future)
4 – Decals
5 - Seal Decals w/gloss
6 - Pin wash (oils)
7 - Flat coat (acrylic)
8 - Filter, oil (optional)
9 - Oil fading/streaking
10 - Seal with thin flat coat (acrylic)
11 - Chipping (optional)
12 - More streaks, like Rust, oil, dirt. (optional)
13 - Another Filter (optional)
14 - Pigments on tracks and lower hull
15 - Airbrush dusting on tracks and lower hull. I use Tamiya Buff very thinned.
16 - Graphite on MG's, tools, lifting eyes, tow cables, etc.
17 - Detail wooden handels, wood block w/oil and/or washes
18 - Double check everything
19 - FINISHED!!!
This is a step by step from a true master modeler and it always worked.
Philippe
Indeed a clear coat is sine qua non to oil washes.
I always use The Gary Boggs steps to paint my models
1 – Primer (acrylic)
2 - Paint basecoat, camo, tools, MG's, accessories, etc.(acrylic)
3 - Gloss coat (future)
4 – Decals
5 - Seal Decals w/gloss
6 - Pin wash (oils)
7 - Flat coat (acrylic)
8 - Filter, oil (optional)
9 - Oil fading/streaking
10 - Seal with thin flat coat (acrylic)
11 - Chipping (optional)
12 - More streaks, like Rust, oil, dirt. (optional)
13 - Another Filter (optional)
14 - Pigments on tracks and lower hull
15 - Airbrush dusting on tracks and lower hull. I use Tamiya Buff very thinned.
16 - Graphite on MG's, tools, lifting eyes, tow cables, etc.
17 - Detail wooden handels, wood block w/oil and/or washes
18 - Double check everything
19 - FINISHED!!!
This is a step by step from a true master modeler and it always worked.
Philippe
AFVFan
North Carolina, United States
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Joined: May 17, 2012
KitMaker: 1,980 posts
Armorama: 1,571 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 15, 2012 - 06:20 PM UTC
Hi Andy, It does sound like you have a conflict going with the paints and thinners you're using. Acrylics, enamels, and oils all thin with different stuff.