Hi ! I have just made this guy, please give me ur cmts so I can have experience to make the others better! Thanks a lot ^^!!!

pics not showing

oops! Can u del this 4 me? ^^ I will post another one!

Just post the photos in this thread.

So Sorry!!! I fixed all...and here they r

The paint is excellent. I always have a problem seating items in figures' hands. You may want to invest in some putty for the gap where the arms attach to the torso. I find auto body putty to be the best. Layer some on the edge of the joint, before assembly and glue together. Sand the seem and apply more putty. Sand and apply more putty. It usually takes me 3-4 applications to completely remove the seem.

Huy ,, Mate that is damn well done .. the face is awesome and so is pretty everything else
The only thing missing it the sling on his rifle and once thats on the whole figure will look even better .
Beautiful work buddy


Phill

^^ thanks a lot guys! @Matt: I have putty of Mr.Hobby and tried to use it but when I squeeze, it is dried immediately so I cant do anything with it... ...
@Phill: herher this is only the first guy, I will make rifle slings when I finish all figures!!!

I think that's some very nice figure painting, indeed, especially the face. Getting that much animation from a DML figure head is quite difficult, and, in my opinion, you have done an excellent job.

In regards to the fit of the joint at the arms. I'm guessing that you painted the arms separately and glued them on later. I do this myself very often so that I can paint around the details on the torso, etc.

The key to doing this is dry fitting the arms before painting so that there's as little seam as possible to deal with later.

Sometimes I don't get it just right and have to do some filling and sanding after the arm is glued on. When this happens, you just have to "bite the bullet," fill and sand, and do some re-painting.

However, once the arm is painted and glued on, if the dry-fitting was done well, then you only have a very small seam left to deal with. I think this is the case with your figure. From what I can see in the photo, the arm seams are pretty fine.

What you can do now is use some thinned PVA (white glue) to fill the seams. The PVA dries transparent and flat (matt), but it usually takes several coats to fill up the seam nicely (because of shrinkage).

If you get any excess thinned PVA on the figure, this can be wiped away with a damp tissue or cotton swab (ear bud) after it dries. You can also use thick PVA and fill the joint and wipe it smooth before it dries, but I find this a little messy and less controlled than flowing thinned PVA into the joint.

Once the seam is filled and dry, because the PVA dries clear, it will "take" the surrounding colors. Apply a coat of clear flat and the seam will disappear.

This is a trick used by model airplane builders for canopies and it also works well on clear parts for armor models, like headlight and tail light lenses.

My complements to you on your painting, though. It has a very nicely animated look with precise details.

Good Work ! I think that is one of the better looking Dragon figure paint jobs I have seen. Great looking eyes & "5 O'clock shadow". Thank you for sharing !
Tom

The only thing I could find fault with is that the figure is a rifleman, but you have captain's bars on his helmet. Wouldn't a captain only be armed with a .45 pistol? Or at most a carbine?

Some officers will opt to carry a rifle vs. just a pistol or a carbine, in fact General Ridgeway chose to carry a 1903 Springfield rifle. To a sniper someone carrying something different than everyone else marks him as someone important. When I was a platoon corpsman I did everything I could to blend in with the grunts.

That's an amazing job on a 1/35 figure. The face is just great!