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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
need help painting Tiki profile
Jussek
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Tarragona, Spain / España
Joined: March 23, 2012
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 22, 2012 - 01:38 AM UTC
Hi all
I'm not new here, as I've been reading -and learning- a lot from you for some months ago, but this will be my first post here.

I'm in the process of painting a 1:16 R/C Tiger I, after a complete and intense redo and mods of the original one. If interested, you can see the whole process here:

http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=10148

This project of mine is 'trying' to depict the well known Tiki, of Das Reich, in April 1943.

I've to say that I'm a newbie painter, so you will find a lot of errors and faults in my work, and also, that this 6Kg cat is made to be used and abused, and not in my home carpet ;-)

After rebuilding and priming, i started applying the overall dunkelgrau painting with XF63,



but it was too dark to my taste, and i wanted to apply filters and washes, so i mixed XF63 with XF20 at a 80/20 ratio and repainted the whole cat, and after that applying the lights with the same tamiya paints in a 70/30 ratio.
The result was a too clear and bluish grey, but as i wanted to do all the weathering process that will darken it, it was ok for me and moved on to 'trying' to emulate the dunkelgelb profile.
I did it using masks, with modest results and, as no real pics of any quality of this profile exist where you can see the back/left/top side, I've taken an 'artist license' in those areas.














I have only three cheap airbrushes, and they failed one after another in the process, you will see some issues caused by this in some of the pics. So, I decided to buy a good one of contrasted quality: a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution 2 in 1.
Unfortunately, it arrived when all the painting process was done with the dying chinese ABs… I will use it in my next project.
Then I painted the numerals, balkankreuz, cat name, kill rings and Wolfsangel tactic symbol. I did them with masks too, the result was not too good, the balkankreuzen and the 8s specially, but with the weathering I think they will look better.











And then, my main problems began. First, I was not able to cover the whole tank with a satin coat in order to make easy the application of oils and washes.

This is the weathering process order I had followed until today:

1- Two filters applied with Titan oils: one bluish, one ochre. The result was an overall greenish look and the panzer grey too bluish and too clear. How do you think this could be corrected?
2- Fading with oils, I used different colors in dots and they ended completely mixed.
3- Selective washes with burnt sienna oils. The result was not of my liking, so i repeated them with smoke black oils. And, as a result of not having satin coated the tank, tide marks appeared when capillarity made their appearance.
4- Trying to solve the tide marks and to darken the whole paint scheme, I ended applying an overall wash of smoke black. The result was a very ‘dirt’ look, especially in the dunkelgelb areas.
5- Applied smoke black oils to do streaking grime, I like the results.
6- Chipping made with the sponge method, using acrylics XF1+XF64+XF6. Being my first attempt to use this technique, I think the result is not too bad, in spite of some excess in some locations…
I will not do too many chipping, the Tiki Tiger tank was only 4 months old when the original pics were taken... some dusting, maybe some pigments, maybe a bit of earth and mud –if any- to the road wheels, tracks and lower hull and I think it will be done. Because it will run over the real thing it will be coated with matt varnish, in order to protect the paintjob from external damage, so real dust will fall over it, real earth will be chunked by his tracks, and real mud will cover the wheels! And then it will be cleaned, otherwise the wife would… well; you understand what I mean…


















So now, how can I save all this work now?

Back to point 1, the greenish look and the panzer grey too bluish and too clear. How do you think this could be corrected? (Without stripping the whole tank and starting from zero)
With a general wash of burnt sienna oils?
Or it is possible to do a general wash with some black/grey only to the dunkelgrau parts and another one with burnt sienna to the dunkelgelb parts?

At this point I’m thinking in repeat all the process starting with the filters…

1- Repeat filters: only one, grey+blue or dark brown?
2- Apply a satin coat in order to made easy the application of the washes
3- Repeat fading with oils, but following what SdAufKla (Mike Roof) wrote here (https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/196845&page=1)
4- Repeat pin washes with a very dark color, if needed
5- Repeat streaking grime application, if needed
6- Repeat some chipping, if needed
7- Application of some graphite in even locations
8- ‘Old’ grease and oil stains to be placed under the dust
9- Dusting. With oils? With XF57 buff?
10- Should I use pigments? I will overcoat the entire tank with matt varnish, so…
11- Some ‘new’ grime streaks, chipping and graphite application, over the dust
12- Finally, over coating Tiki with matt varnish.

I’m open to any idea and advice that you can give to me!

Thanks for reading!

Best regards and thank you very much!
asmodeuss
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: November 19, 2011
KitMaker: 1,389 posts
Armorama: 1,388 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 22, 2012 - 02:11 AM UTC
Hi Joseph, It is an impressive build you got there! And the rc mods: Bravo! as for the finish, I suppose that you have your new AB available, What I would do is:Before all, using the finest needle spray the dark yellow parts again to obtain a uniform coat on and get this semi hard edge feel.Buff is a great dusting color as long as you go with very thin layers and pigs are great when it is not overwelming. Afterward your sequence is pretty on the spot, because your weathering is really nice imo. A good AB is always a great buy. I personnaly use Iwata high perf. Gravity fed.

Keep it up mate it looks already great!!

Philippe.
Jussek
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Tarragona, Spain / España
Joined: March 23, 2012
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 22, 2012 - 08:35 PM UTC
hello Philippe,

thank you very much for your kind words!

yesterday night, looking at the tank again, I was caught by a sudden flash, and the feeling of be stupid reached me...

I've been looking -and taken pics- to it since Monday after work, every day the same... at night! so with artificial light and using flash in some pics...

I'm basing al my fears in a false perception... i will wait until this weekend and then i will be able to see the tank in the outside with natural light, then i will talk about redoing it or not...

best regards!
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 24, 2012 - 04:00 PM UTC
It really looks like it's coming along nicely. To me the biggest detractor is the spare track in the front. I don't know if they're styrene or vinyl, but you should see if you can remove them and file those ejector pin marks off.
Otherwise very nice.
Jussek
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Tarragona, Spain / España
Joined: March 23, 2012
KitMaker: 3 posts
Armorama: 3 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 25, 2012 - 10:13 PM UTC
hello again,

well, it's confirmed, the odd bluish hue is due the artificial light inside my workroom, how the camera record the colours and how my monitor display shows them... in daylight the grey is grey...

the overall look of the tank is maybe too much dirty, like she has been involved in heavy fighting in an smoking environtment









i think i will continue the weathering, applying the dust, and pigments for the dry mud ans see how it comes along finally.

@Robert,

thank you very much for your words too, yes, the spare track links could be removed, I suppose you are talking about these circular marks on them?

best regards
 _GOTOTOP