May be a few little tidbits that can be added before prime/paint but after painting all that stuff already on the little KT, I am going back to my old MO and all that will be done off the machine.
Got some wheels adjustments to be made once the track install is permanent... bend a few axles, glue tracks to the tops f the tire... that sort of stuff.
Filled the chipped areas with Bondo, wiped most of is out then stipple it with a stiff brush. Some will show primer exposed and other will be as if they occurred before the white was was applied.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panther A, Late Production, Dragon #6358
wing_nut
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Posted: Saturday, December 22, 2012 - 05:00 AM UTC
wing_nut
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 04:48 AM UTC
Just noticed the double post. Sorry about that.
Painting camo sure is easy when you don't really care too much about the look and over spray etc.. This is all the base for the white wash. And to be honest, taking the pressure off and it turned out pretty good i think and took about 3 minutes. A test fit of the schurzen too.
Painting camo sure is easy when you don't really care too much about the look and over spray etc.. This is all the base for the white wash. And to be honest, taking the pressure off and it turned out pretty good i think and took about 3 minutes. A test fit of the schurzen too.
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 06:49 AM UTC
Looking good Marc. I'm really looking forward to how you apply the whitewash. The best method I have seen is to spray it with water and apply the paint over it. Let it dry and repeat the process, until you are satisfied.
BBD468
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 06:56 AM UTC
HEY YOU!!!
Damn fine camo job Marc!
Gary
Damn fine camo job Marc!
Gary
paul51
Hamilton, New Zealand
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 07:37 AM UTC
This is going to look brilliant when finished, thanks in advance
Tiger_213
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 07:57 AM UTC
Wish I'd seen this thread sooner Marc. Great work, smart ideas with the Dremel! Looking forward to seeing more.
m0nolith
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 08:02 AM UTC
I'm going to keep and eye on this thread since im new to the model building scene and have the exact same kit in the mail right now (including the Atak zimmerit).
Have to say that this is excellent work. I'm learning a lot here, and i hope you don't mind if i "borrow" some of the techniques you used here.
My plan is to paint it as a captured soviet tank, complete with Tamiya soviet tank crew figures.
Keep up the good work!
Have to say that this is excellent work. I'm learning a lot here, and i hope you don't mind if i "borrow" some of the techniques you used here.
My plan is to paint it as a captured soviet tank, complete with Tamiya soviet tank crew figures.
Keep up the good work!
wing_nut
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 11:33 AM UTC
Thanks guys... glad you like it so far.
Matt... not heard of that method before. Any chance you have a link to, or can point me to, an SBS of that process and maybe some results?
Welcome to the insanity Zare. Use whatever you like. 90% I've picked up in place like this myself. Do you have a ref pic of a captured Panther you are doing? Love to see it. Or is it going to be more of a what if? Either way that will look cool.
Matt... not heard of that method before. Any chance you have a link to, or can point me to, an SBS of that process and maybe some results?
Welcome to the insanity Zare. Use whatever you like. 90% I've picked up in place like this myself. Do you have a ref pic of a captured Panther you are doing? Love to see it. Or is it going to be more of a what if? Either way that will look cool.
Tiger_213
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 11:58 AM UTC
Marc, Federico has posted an SBS, though it's in Spanish. Seems there's different ways to do it;
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/197795#1655767
And;
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/197727#1655327
Hope those help.
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/197795#1655767
And;
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/197727#1655327
Hope those help.
retiredyank
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Posted: Saturday, December 29, 2012 - 12:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks guys... glad you like it so far.
Matt... not heard of that method before. Any chance you have a link to, or can point me to, an SBS of that process and maybe some results?
Welcome to the insanity Zare. Use whatever you like. 90% I've picked up in place like this myself. Do you have a ref pic of a captured Panther you are doing? Love to see it. Or is it going to be more of a what if? Either way that will look cool.
I saw this article, about a month ago. However, I have searched through several hundred articles with no luck. I have tried this method, myself. I had a base of Tamiya acrylic with on over lay of MM enamel. Instead of spraying water on the kit, I gave it a quick pass under my kitchen faucet. I shook some of the water off, then sprayed on the enamel. When it was dry enough to touch, lightly rubbed it with a soft clothe. The wet spots lifted right off.
robw_uk
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Posted: Sunday, December 30, 2012 - 08:05 AM UTC
Very nice. I am in the market for tow cable, may have to see if I can find a UK Stockists of that ook stuff. Someone mentioned wax Jewellery string too.... may have a look in my lhs.
Plasticat
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Posted: Sunday, December 30, 2012 - 09:12 AM UTC
I see that Amazon carries some ook wire. What is the load rating on the wire you used? It looks great!
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2012 - 03:14 AM UTC
Thanks for the info on that weathering technique. I will do some playing around wot that one day and see how it works.
The Ook wire I used is the 30 lb weight product # 50173. They also make a twisted wire that does not have the plastic sheath. This however has the same issue as other brands of wire I've tried and when twisting my own. If just one wire is a little loose or out of position it shows up as bumps and distortions when you tighten the twists to make a tow cable. They end up looking worse than the Organdy cables. With the stuff in # 50173 the wire is very evenly twisted and stays that way when tightened.
With regards to weather and white wash... I've learned something... the hard way. I am doing the WW with hairspray. I put the white coat over the dry hairspray before i went to dinner at moms last night so it would be ready for when I got home. (insert loud buzzer sound here) WRONG! It is incredibly hard to get off. While that may be OK for some application it's not for what i was going for. I am going forward and see how it goes before I resort to a Windex strip and repaint.
The Ook wire I used is the 30 lb weight product # 50173. They also make a twisted wire that does not have the plastic sheath. This however has the same issue as other brands of wire I've tried and when twisting my own. If just one wire is a little loose or out of position it shows up as bumps and distortions when you tighten the twists to make a tow cable. They end up looking worse than the Organdy cables. With the stuff in # 50173 the wire is very evenly twisted and stays that way when tightened.
With regards to weather and white wash... I've learned something... the hard way. I am doing the WW with hairspray. I put the white coat over the dry hairspray before i went to dinner at moms last night so it would be ready for when I got home. (insert loud buzzer sound here) WRONG! It is incredibly hard to get off. While that may be OK for some application it's not for what i was going for. I am going forward and see how it goes before I resort to a Windex strip and repaint.
retiredyank
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2012 - 06:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the info on that weathering technique. I will do some playing around wot that one day and see how it works.
The Ook wire I used is the 30 lb weight product # 50173. They also make a twisted wire that does not have the plastic sheath. This however has the same issue as other brands of wire I've tried and when twisting my own. If just one wire is a little loose or out of position it shows up as bumps and distortions when you tighten the twists to make a tow cable. They end up looking worse than the Organdy cables. With the stuff in # 50173 the wire is very evenly twisted and stays that way when tightened.
With regards to weather and white wash... I've learned something... the hard way. I am doing the WW with hairspray. I put the white coat over the dry hairspray before i went to dinner at moms last night so it would be ready for when I got home. (insert loud buzzer sound here) WRONG! It is incredibly hard to get off. While that may be OK for some application it's not for what i was going for. I am going forward and see how it goes before I resort to a Windex strip and repaint.
I'm telling you, use the water method. I have found that hairspray technique is very difficult to master.
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2012 - 11:33 AM UTC
Matt, I plan to. maybe on a winter Kingtiger. But I want to practice on an old clunker 1st. I noticed those links posted above have an English translation added which makes it easier. Unless I missed it... hat kind of paint are they spraying? I know acrylic but Tamiya or Vallejo?
SO... took most of the day cuz the paint was really adhered. A combination of different brushes... even a wire brush in spots, making some light scratched for the water do work on-the hair spray and even used diluted alcohol to get some of the white off. I think once it's all washed, streaked and dirtied it will look OK. I am not totally unhappy with how it turned out. But please... love to hear any critiques.
SO... took most of the day cuz the paint was really adhered. A combination of different brushes... even a wire brush in spots, making some light scratched for the water do work on-the hair spray and even used diluted alcohol to get some of the white off. I think once it's all washed, streaked and dirtied it will look OK. I am not totally unhappy with how it turned out. But please... love to hear any critiques.
Tiger_213
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2012 - 11:51 AM UTC
Some of the difficulties you had might have been because of the type of hairspray you used. Think 'extra hold' is what gets the best results. I've done it once and didn't care for it though.
I think it will look just fine once it's completely weathered. I guess if you were really unhappy with it you could always 'disguise' it under a light coat of 'snow'.
I think it will look just fine once it's completely weathered. I guess if you were really unhappy with it you could always 'disguise' it under a light coat of 'snow'.
jimz66
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Posted: Monday, December 31, 2012 - 01:23 PM UTC
NIce work Marc. I have heard that Vallejo paints are hard to come off. I think you need the extra hold stuff like was said above. But I think that Vallejo is not conducive to removal. Not sure why but I am sure I have heard that many times before... Hope all is well. See you on the show circuit in the spring...
wing_nut
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Posted: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 - 01:03 PM UTC
I applied some AK winter streaking grime. It's greener that the color the bottle describes. And much thinner than it appears in the videos too. I do like the way it had the effect of a pin wash between the squares of the zim. The top is the pic form above a previous post the grime.
I've started going over the entire model adding some highlights/contrast to the zimmed surface. Little dabs of white oil paint was touched to the lightest spots in each square then "stumped" as the AK videos calls it. The right side of the pic shows the effects. It's subtle but I am really liking the way it's turning out. The 2nd pic is another before/after. I plan to go back again and do some at random instead every tile. Don't think I am going to do much more than that.
I've started going over the entire model adding some highlights/contrast to the zimmed surface. Little dabs of white oil paint was touched to the lightest spots in each square then "stumped" as the AK videos calls it. The right side of the pic shows the effects. It's subtle but I am really liking the way it's turning out. The 2nd pic is another before/after. I plan to go back again and do some at random instead every tile. Don't think I am going to do much more than that.
wing_nut
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Posted: Friday, January 04, 2013 - 07:00 AM UTC
Weathering is done. I think so anyway. I found myself putting little spots here and there and finally I had to push away before it was too much. All those little white dabs was not as hard or time consuming as it looked. ::)
Road wheels just about done. Tracks and tools and it will be time to to bust a tiny little bottle of champagne on the glacis.
But if anyone has any tweaks to suggest... lay on me!
And her's is an updated progression comparison.
Road wheels just about done. Tracks and tools and it will be time to to bust a tiny little bottle of champagne on the glacis.
But if anyone has any tweaks to suggest... lay on me!
And her's is an updated progression comparison.
retiredyank
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Posted: Friday, January 04, 2013 - 07:29 AM UTC
You have really managed to pull the white wash off. I had never considered going back over it with other colors.
wing_nut
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 07:24 AM UTC
Thanks Matt.
It has its shoes on. Work on the tools should commence this evening.
It has its shoes on. Work on the tools should commence this evening.
Tojo72
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 08:31 AM UTC
Real nice job on the whitewash and zimm Marc
AFVFan
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 10:01 AM UTC
That is looking good on it's feet Marc.
Tiger_213
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 10:15 AM UTC
Looks great Marc. Personally think it looks a bit too green, though that's likely just the pictures.
jimz66
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Posted: Monday, January 07, 2013 - 01:46 PM UTC
Looks good Mark... Real good...