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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
1:72 Sherman
chienlaid
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: November 12, 2012
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 01:57 AM UTC
I'm new to this whole model building game and I have to say I'm having a blast. My days are spent on the web searching for ideas and tutorials.

The one question I have is what do I use to make antennas?

I'm building a couple of 1:72 shermans.

I think I need a 9ft (1.5in) or 15ft (2.5in) antenna for a sherman just not sure what to use. I have some really thin wire, will that work?

I will also build a T26E4 in 1:72 scale...what size antenna do I need for that?

tread_geek
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Joined: March 23, 2008
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 04:38 AM UTC
@chienlaid - Alain,

Firstly, welcome to Armorama and if you do 1/72 scale, why not join the action in the Braille Scale Forum. I'm sure that I and others there would be most interested to see your work.

As for your antenna question, I use .009" (.23mm) steel guitar string for antennas. It's somewhat flexible but won't bend and distort as copper wire will. Of course you use a CA glue to attach it. From what I've read, most US World War II and Korea antennas where between 8 and 9 feet.

Cheers,
Jan
chienlaid
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Joined: November 12, 2012
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 05:40 AM UTC
Thanks for the welcome, this is a great forum.

Here is a link to my first ever build. It was a trumpeter 1:35 M1A2 Abrams. There were a lot of first for me on this build. Airbrush, camo, weathering, etc...It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/200088

That's what the braille scale forum is about. I thought it was about something else. lol

Where do you buy your 1:72 scale models here in Canada. I find most shops don't stock a lot of 1:72 scale. Well here in Sudbury they don't.
tread_geek
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Joined: March 23, 2008
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 06:25 AM UTC
@chienlaid - Alain,

I checked out the link you posted and the M1 looks great for a first attempt. There's a lot of helpful people here and a lot of knowledge that they are willing to share. First and foremost, the hobby is meant to be fun and relaxing. Learn at your own pace and don't be in a rush to discover ALL the secrets.


Quoted Text

That's what the braille scale forum is about. I thought it was about something else. lol



Actually, the term 'Braille Scale' encompasses anything 1/72 or smaller (1/76, 1/87, 1/144). It's a somewhat derisive term coined by the 'Lego' builders (1/35+ scale).


Quoted Text

Where do you buy your 1:72 scale models here in Canada. I find most shops don't stock a lot of 1:72 scale. Well here in Sudbury they don't.



First, I might try inquiring at a local hobby shop whether they will allow you to order a particular 1/72 kit. My nearest shop is very good at doing that and generally gets what I want in a week or two. Since I live in a more central southern Ontario area, I can get the odd chance to check out a few shops in other larger cities (Hamilton, Kitchener, Toronto). Then there is mail order that a few in my local IPMS club swear by. Unfortunately, the shipping costs in Canada can be quite a bit more than say getting something from the other side of the world. Don't blame these merchants, it's Canada Post shipping rates that really add up.

That being said, I have ordered online from a place in Kitchener that stocks a fair amount of 1/72 kits. It's Hobby and Toy Central. Their prices are good and their shipping cost for a single kit is expensive but I've found that as you order more kits (4 or 5) it gets fairly reasonable.

Cheers,
Jan
weathering_one
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Joined: April 04, 2009
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Posted: Friday, December 07, 2012 - 08:18 AM UTC
Hi Alain, welcome to Armorama! I'm also into Braille scale and fairly new to the hobby. I haven't built that many kits but have gathered a wealth of info from the gang here. As an example, have a look at mu M1A1 build that I did a while ago and all the help that I got.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/166923&ord=&page=2

Regards,
AJ
Removed by original poster on 12/09/12 - 12:40:17 (GMT).
chienlaid
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 12:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

As an example, have a look at mu M1A1 build that I did a while ago and all the help that I got.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/166923&ord=&page=2

Regards,
AJ



When I first joined the forum I read your post in it's entirety.

So quick question. Do you guys preshade 1:72 scale?

I just finished assembling 2 shermans from a quick assembly Italeri kit. They're both primed, but i'm not sure if I should preshade or just paint the base coat. I hear the Tamiya XF-62 is the best match, so I need to go pick some of that up this week.

Biggles2
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Joined: January 01, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 03:52 AM UTC
Cheapest way to make a British or American whip-type antenna is to use stretched sprue, or buy a cheap nylon bristle paint brush. You'll have enough antennas for a division.
AgentG
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Joined: December 21, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 04:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

As an example, have a look at mu M1A1 build that I did a while ago and all the help that I got.

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/166923&ord=&page=2

Regards,
AJ




When I first joined the forum I read your post in it's entirety.

So quick question. Do you guys preshade 1:72 scale?

I just finished assembling 2 shermans from a quick assembly Italeri kit. They're both primed, but i'm not sure if I should preshade or just paint the base coat. I hear the Tamiya XF-62 is the best match, so I need to go pick some of that up this week.




I usually do not bother with a preshade but I will lighten the base color. There is a phenomenom known as "scale effect". It's based on the real world premise that distance effects how we see color due to atmospheric conditions. All this means is we see things lighter in color the farther they are away.

Remember a 1/72 scale Sherman viewed at 1 foot appears in size as if a real Sherman were 72 feet away.

Tamiya OD is considered the best match for WWII US OD.

Now without stirring up several topics here is some basic advise. That said most of us lighten this color out of the bottle with Tamiya Buff, Dark Yellow, or Deck Tan. White, which seems a logical choice, is nearly never used alone. It really makes the color look unnatural.

Now if you want to preshade here's a tip I use in this scale. Use the OD straight from the bottle as the preshade color then lighten it for the overall base coat.

Also, weathering can be completely overdone in this scale without much conscious thought. What flies well in 1/35th scale looks way overdone on a mini tank.

G
tread_geek
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Joined: March 23, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 05:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text


I usually do not bother with a preshade but I will lighten the base color. There is a phenomenom known as "scale effect". It's based on the real world premise that distance effects how we see color due to atmospheric conditions. All this means is we see things lighter in color the farther they are away.

Remember a 1/72 scale Sherman viewed at 1 foot appears in size as if a real Sherman were 72 feet away.

Tamiya OD is considered the best match for WWII US OD.

... most of us lighten this color out of the bottle with Tamiya Buff, Dark Yellow, or Deck Tan. White, which seems a logical choice, is nearly never used alone. It really makes the color look unnatural.

Now if you want to preshade here's a tip I use in this scale. Use the OD straight from the bottle as the preshade color then lighten it for the overall base coat.

...



@chienlaid -Alain,

I pretty much agree with AgentG (Wayne) about "scale effect" and the choice of lightening colours. For Tamiya OD, I lighten it with dark yellow (XF-60). I will also use the particular main or base colour out of the bottle for any pre-shading (usually on larger vehicles) and also as the main shadow colour.

Cheers,
Jan
chienlaid
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 10:37 AM UTC
So I'll follow you guys' advice and lighten up the base coat and then maybe doing a darker wash on it? Would that work?

I was thinking something along the lines of this.

http://www.ak-interactive-usa.com/product-ak045.html
AgentG
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Joined: December 21, 2008
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 10:58 AM UTC
Again, in braille scale everything must be done with restraint. I only "pinwash" or use a wash selectively in certain areas, not over the entire model.

Using lighter shades of paint is a result of this scale, for as much realism as possible, you do not want it dark.

G
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