Hi guys,
I have simple question. How can I scratch the shell ejector ports? The kit parts are way to simplified. It may seem easy, a hollow brass tube, bend it (not easy..) and then cut one way open. I tried it different times, but it is not going to work.
Do you have any suggestions? If an AM company could tackle this (RB Model?) I would die to get a set..
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Shilka Shell Ejector ports
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 07:10 AM UTC
18Bravo
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
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Joined: January 20, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 07:41 AM UTC
Carve a master out of styrene that replicates the inside of the tube and the curve. Get some lead foil and work it around the master, then trim it to shape. It would be very tough to just bend brass tubing as the wall is too thick. You could do it, but to get the top flange I think you'd have to get a small hammer shape it on a dolly.
Edit:
After looking at it again, There's another method that might work. if you look at the one on the lower right of your photo, I think you can get that curve into the brass. t's that upper flange that's visible in the circle example that's tough. I'd do the curved part first, then ADD the flange, either with foil, brass, or even thin styrene, super glue the heck out of it on the outside, then file it smooth so you don't see the joint. Ultimately I think that would be easier than trying to do it from one piece.
Edit:
After looking at it again, There's another method that might work. if you look at the one on the lower right of your photo, I think you can get that curve into the brass. t's that upper flange that's visible in the circle example that's tough. I'd do the curved part first, then ADD the flange, either with foil, brass, or even thin styrene, super glue the heck out of it on the outside, then file it smooth so you don't see the joint. Ultimately I think that would be easier than trying to do it from one piece.
bison126
Correze, France
Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
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Joined: June 10, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 10:05 PM UTC
Jurjen,
why don't you simply drill out the flange? It should not be that hard with a Dremel tool at slow speed.
I can't remember where but I saw one Shilka build either at Armorama or ML where the builder made these parts on his own. Maybe a search through the forum could help.
Olivier
why don't you simply drill out the flange? It should not be that hard with a Dremel tool at slow speed.
I can't remember where but I saw one Shilka build either at Armorama or ML where the builder made these parts on his own. Maybe a search through the forum could help.
Olivier
Tiger_213
California, United States
Joined: August 10, 2012
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Joined: August 10, 2012
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 10:19 PM UTC
I would try something with some styrene rod and a lighter. But then again I just like setting things on fire (accidentally of course)! Drilling it out is probably the safer and more practical idea though.
juge75
Jasz-Nagkyun-Szolnok, Hungary
Joined: May 02, 2009
KitMaker: 843 posts
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Joined: May 02, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 10:24 PM UTC
Coming soon will be! I did it out of medical catheter (branül), wire it, bends. Further more erode machine (drilling machine), thin film or copper sheet the top. (see my shilka)
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 3,040 posts
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Saturday, December 08, 2012 - 11:36 PM UTC
Hi Robert, thanks for your thoughts! I will also try to make it out of Magic Sculp:
1. Roll it out to a very flat and thin sheet.
2. Wrap it around the original kit part
3. Cut away the acces
Worth trying. I will keep you updated!
1. Roll it out to a very flat and thin sheet.
2. Wrap it around the original kit part
3. Cut away the acces
Worth trying. I will keep you updated!
jointhepit
Oost-Vlaanderen, Belgium
Joined: May 14, 2006
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Joined: May 14, 2006
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 04:32 AM UTC
just drill out the hole, once painted you wouldn't know the difference, I did it on mine, andI'd have to take a "macro" look at it to even see these ports...
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 3,040 posts
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Joined: September 21, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 08:30 AM UTC
Hi Guys!
Magic Sculpt didn't work.. I think I will try the Dremel tool.. I will have a look on your shilka's Gabor and Peter.
Cheers,
Jurjen
Magic Sculpt didn't work.. I think I will try the Dremel tool.. I will have a look on your shilka's Gabor and Peter.
Cheers,
Jurjen
juge75
Jasz-Nagkyun-Szolnok, Hungary
Joined: May 02, 2009
KitMaker: 843 posts
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Joined: May 02, 2009
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Posted: Sunday, December 09, 2012 - 07:08 PM UTC
Here's mine, I wrote down that I made.
It will be cast in resin, and is the top-Photo etched.
A few parts have already been written, but I had no idea that such a demand will be for her ...
It will be cast in resin, and is the top-Photo etched.
A few parts have already been written, but I had no idea that such a demand will be for her ...
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 3,040 posts
Armorama: 1,016 posts
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 3,040 posts
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Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 06:20 AM UTC
That looks really good! Do you know when the first production batch will be done? I would love to get a set!
To me the gun area is the most interesting area of the shilka. The barrels made by RB Model are a great improvement, in my opinion, when you tackle one aspect - you need to tackle the rest as well.
Cheers,
Jurjen
To me the gun area is the most interesting area of the shilka. The barrels made by RB Model are a great improvement, in my opinion, when you tackle one aspect - you need to tackle the rest as well.
Cheers,
Jurjen
Jurjen
Groningen, Netherlands
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 3,040 posts
Armorama: 1,016 posts
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 3,040 posts
Armorama: 1,016 posts
Posted: Monday, December 10, 2012 - 07:53 AM UTC
Done!
Best way is to use the kitparts. The trick is indeed to scrape away the plastic untill you get a very thin wall. I used the Micro Shisel with a half round tip. I used a normal blade to scrape and to flat out the 'cover'. Then you can drill a small hole into the tube.
Thanks for all your thoughts! I will keep you updated.
Cheers!
Best way is to use the kitparts. The trick is indeed to scrape away the plastic untill you get a very thin wall. I used the Micro Shisel with a half round tip. I used a normal blade to scrape and to flat out the 'cover'. Then you can drill a small hole into the tube.
Thanks for all your thoughts! I will keep you updated.
Cheers!