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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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what do you use to cut out PE parts?
hliu24
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2012 - 04:46 PM UTC
Xuron 9180ET or TAMIYA 74068 Scissors? Better choices?

Any technique suggestion? I broke a small part when I tried to cut it out...and I dropped another tiny piece

Thank you

jay
AFVFan
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2012 - 05:42 PM UTC
Jay - I just use a razor knife on a hard plastic mat. I'm not sure of the # for the blade. It looks like a #10, but it's about half the size. If you angle the blade towards the piece you can get a cut that doesn't need any cleanup.

I can't help much if you're dropping pieces, but if you use the knife and put you PE on the sticky part of a post-it, it'll keep it from flying off in all directions. I usually try to get a finger nail on it just for safety's sake.

Hope this helps.
GregCloseCombat
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2012 - 05:47 PM UTC
I will also use a sanding stick to remove pe sprue leftovers.
SEDimmick
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I will also use a sanding stick to remove pe sprue leftovers.


Tamiya makes a nice file that takes care of the numbs that can be left behind at times

PantherF
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:24 AM UTC
I use a hobby knife against a surface that will support the PE, but allow the sharp edge to pass through like a hard cardboard or even wood, but not steel or glass.

Some pieces can be removed using even a sprue scissor but in time that will dull it.

I then snip or file the remaining/protruding piece.










~ Jeff
Tiger_213
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:59 AM UTC
I use my knife, #11 blade. Put a little pressure on the part you're cutting to keep them from flying off into oblivion. Usually just use the knife if there's any left-over brass as well.
spacewolfdad
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 04:00 AM UTC
@ AFVFan
Quoted Text

Jay - I just use a razor knife on a hard plastic mat. I'm not sure of the # for the blade. It looks like a #10, but it's about half the size. If you angle the blade towards the piece you can get a cut that doesn't need any cleanup.

I can't help much if you're dropping pieces, but if you use the knife and put you PE on the sticky part of a post-it, it'll keep it from flying off in all directions. I usually try to get a finger nail on it just for safety's sake.

Hope this helps.


Excellent piece of advice. I shall plunder the Post-it note tip, never thought about using those. I do use double sided tape, but you can manoeuvre the Post-it to get the best angle to clean up the piece and keep it safe, thanks for that.

All the best,

Paul
srmalloy
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 06:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I can't help much if you're dropping pieces, but if you use the knife and put you PE on the sticky part of a post-it, it'll keep it from flying off in all directions. I usually try to get a finger nail on it just for safety's sake.


Another trick that I ran across in an issue of Fine Scale Modeler is to put the PE fret in a ziplock bag and cut the pieces free through the bag material; having the plastic covering the newly-freed piece keeps it from leaping into oblivion.
Jurrie
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 06:52 AM UTC
Hi Jay,

I use the Tamiya scissors, which I prefer above a hobby knife. However, most people prefer the hobby knife.

You can not only use the scissors to cut out the part, but also for cleanup. No files required .

Greetz,

Jurrie
lukiftian
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 08:53 AM UTC
A #10 scalpel blade, but any round edge exacto blade will do.
PantherF
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 09:20 AM UTC
That bag idea is cool but I bet you would run through a lot of them and that's not too cool for the environment.

I just use a see-through clear plastic ruler to hold down the piece being cut.

Works for me!










~ Jeff
c5flies
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 12:21 PM UTC
10 bucks, excellent tool, been using mine for years and still have an unused acrylic tile from the set:

PE cut-out kit

Coupled with a #10 blade and you're good to go.
jwest21
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 12:27 PM UTC
Ausfwerks makes a great little portable hard surface to cut on. I have been using the same block of it for 6 years. every once in a while I just sand the surface a little to smooth it back out

http://ausfwerks.com//store/ausfdesign/ad1602/T.html
AFVFan
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 02:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

That bag idea is cool but I bet you would run through a lot of them and that's not too cool for the environment.
I just use a see-through clear plastic ruler to hold down the piece being cut.
Works for me!
~ Jeff


The problem I have with the bag is that it allows the fret to flex a little when the pressure is put on it. This makes it a little harder to get a precise cut.
Arizonakid
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 04:13 PM UTC

I have been using just a piece of hardwood with a piece of double sided tape, and an X-acto #11 blade.Then a pair of small quality fabric scisors for cleaning up any spurs. Occasionally I use a flat file or even just a piece of sanding film.
Spiderfrommars
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 04:22 PM UTC
I use a rounded x acto blade such this one



Before cutting the fret I put it firmly on a hard surface pressing it with an sharp object made on steel. That could prevent the fret warp. To remove the parts I gently "swing" the blade along their joints.

A tip which I can give you is to use as an incredibly effective hard surface a cheap and easy to find Kitchen cutting boards made of nylon...



cheers
PantherF
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Posted: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 - 12:03 AM UTC
That's exactly what I use Mauro!

Found my cutting board at the dollar store... costing only 1 dollar.










~ Jeff
hliu24
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Posted: Saturday, December 22, 2012 - 11:53 AM UTC
Thank you all.

jay
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