I've not used blacken-it before, but I must admit I was expecting a little more than light brown? Or is that normal?
I left the tracks in solution for about 30 mins but only got light brown.
Is that normal?
Thanks
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blacken-it, or light brown it?
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
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Joined: October 15, 2012
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Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 06:11 AM UTC
Tojo72
North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
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Joined: June 06, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 07:04 AM UTC
I understand that you really have to wash the tracks over real good with a vinegar water mix,using a brush to get into all the nooks and crannies.this removes all the oils that came from your hands plus the manufacturer.If this isn't done properly,the chemical reaction doesn't take place correctly.Some people prefer the AK solution,I just paint and weather them like the rest of the model.Those soltions aren't cheap.
rinaldi119
Oregon, United States
Joined: September 22, 2004
KitMaker: 375 posts
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Joined: September 22, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 09:58 AM UTC
Hi Andy -
I would venture a guess the lighter color is a result of not using enough of the solution in the first go around. I typically will use a half a bottle per set and give each side it's own bath in it's own container.
And as mentioned above, it does help to pre-soak the assembled runs in household store bought white vinegar (5% acid), which helps to get off the release agents from the nooks and hidden areas.
As you watch it work, you can see the liquid turn brown and you may well have left it in too long and the brown color settled back down onto the metal. I've seen that happen before. I typically only soak them for about 5 mins, with some occasional shaking to get the color I'm after. Longer doesn't necessarily mean darker, or blacker. Once the acid solution is consumed, that's it, it won't darken any more. So quantity of the solution is relevant to the final color.
The Uschi/AK Interactive solution provides a more consistent and uniform darker color, so you have a choice between the products. Blacken-it provides more color variations for the tones it provides, more shades of browns. Both work great, but like a lot of chemical products some trial and error will occur.
If you don't want to soak them again, then some simple dark brown/black washes easily darken the color. It's a super easy fix... but in all honestly, many tracks are generally a lighter earth color given the location and use of the tank, or the season you are trying to present it in. I would consider adding washes and pigments after the Blacken-it regardless to end up at the final results.
Best,
Mike
http://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio
I would venture a guess the lighter color is a result of not using enough of the solution in the first go around. I typically will use a half a bottle per set and give each side it's own bath in it's own container.
And as mentioned above, it does help to pre-soak the assembled runs in household store bought white vinegar (5% acid), which helps to get off the release agents from the nooks and hidden areas.
As you watch it work, you can see the liquid turn brown and you may well have left it in too long and the brown color settled back down onto the metal. I've seen that happen before. I typically only soak them for about 5 mins, with some occasional shaking to get the color I'm after. Longer doesn't necessarily mean darker, or blacker. Once the acid solution is consumed, that's it, it won't darken any more. So quantity of the solution is relevant to the final color.
The Uschi/AK Interactive solution provides a more consistent and uniform darker color, so you have a choice between the products. Blacken-it provides more color variations for the tones it provides, more shades of browns. Both work great, but like a lot of chemical products some trial and error will occur.
If you don't want to soak them again, then some simple dark brown/black washes easily darken the color. It's a super easy fix... but in all honestly, many tracks are generally a lighter earth color given the location and use of the tank, or the season you are trying to present it in. I would consider adding washes and pigments after the Blacken-it regardless to end up at the final results.
Best,
Mike
http://www.facebook.com/RinaldiStudio
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 10:47 AM UTC
Thanks for your help guys, I read up on using it before I started. Washed the tracks in vinegar, rinsed them and dried them. Put them fully submerged in a whole bottle of solution, checked them every minute or two, agitated them every few minutes. But after 30 mins no improvement on light brown!
I think next time I'll save my money and just paint them.
I've recovered it easily enough by misting some well thinned black over them. But I just wondered if it was normal
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply.
I think next time I'll save my money and just paint them.
I've recovered it easily enough by misting some well thinned black over them. But I just wondered if it was normal
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply.
Belt_Fed
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
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Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 11:36 AM UTC
While I can not argue with Mike's results, I never had had luck with Blacken-it. I just paint them now.
Blackstoat
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Joined: October 15, 2012
KitMaker: 568 posts
Armorama: 561 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 12:09 PM UTC
Yeah, they look a lot better than mine!