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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
Hosted by Darren Baker
M1117 ready for paint job
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 02:33 AM UTC
Hi guys. This is my main project for last 6 months(I know, I'm very slow builder). Fun kit to build with some PE upgrades from Voyager and resin wheels from ET model + M249 from LiveResin.

More or less model is ready for painting, just need to mask some stuff. I'll go with vallejo white primer and then cover it with vallejo sand(same procedure applied to wheel hubs).

As my paint progress goes, will post new pictures of it. Any comments and suggestions are welcomed and thanks for watching.






















pilote14
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Pas-de-Calais, France
Joined: November 01, 2010
KitMaker: 459 posts
Armorama: 432 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 03:42 AM UTC
just one word : WAAAOOOWWWW !
hliu24
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California, United States
Joined: November 19, 2010
KitMaker: 798 posts
Armorama: 797 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 05:51 AM UTC
knees down!

no wonder this thing caught all your focus from the m1151

Rhino looks great! did you follow the voyager instruction all the way?

Jay
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,212 posts
Armorama: 2,807 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 10:47 AM UTC
Lovely neat job. All the PE looks fantastic!
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 - 11:30 PM UTC
Thanks for the support guys

Jay, I followed the voyager instruction except I didn't put the bolts(marked with red circles) because they are good if you attach rhino to front Humvee plate but for M1117 I think rhino is welded for that support frame(part "d" in the instructions).



35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,212 posts
Armorama: 2,807 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 01:12 AM UTC
What did you use for the cables/wires? To Rhino, BFT and aerials.
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 07, 2013 - 06:00 AM UTC
Sean I used tin lead soldering wire. Found it on eBay. You can choose from 0.2mm to 0.8mm. On M1117 I used 0.4mm and it's very cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160702274639?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
Wakemeup
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Napoli, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2006
KitMaker: 880 posts
Armorama: 874 posts
Posted: Friday, February 08, 2013 - 09:39 PM UTC
Hi Marko,I love this work,well done!
I'm planning to do the same model in the next week.Do you have had problem with the ET Model wheels?!How is the casting?!with the small photo and the paint on it is difficult to get an idea.
I hope to see this baby painted soon.
Regards
Ciro
merkavafan
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Northern Territory, Australia
Joined: March 22, 2009
KitMaker: 59 posts
Armorama: 56 posts
Posted: Friday, February 08, 2013 - 11:31 PM UTC
inspirational work!!! cant wait to see the paint job .
cheers,
Andy
terminators
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France
Joined: February 20, 2012
KitMaker: 1,932 posts
Armorama: 1,907 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2013 - 02:03 AM UTC
Very great updates on your M1117. I like especially the cables detailling of the Duke system and COM 201 antennas.

The tie down parts looks very small, is it difficult to glue them ?

I am interested too about ET Models wheels for this model, are they good ?
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
Armorama: 1,143 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2013 - 02:39 AM UTC
Marko, you're PE work is outstanding to say the least. Since I don't see any solder, I'm assuming you used CCA glue. A extremely neat job.

Looking forward to your next update when the primer has been applied.

Joel
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2013 - 06:01 AM UTC
Ciro, Andrew, Alex & Joel thank you for the support!!!

Now about the ET wheels, they are great, especially for the price they are selling them. I didn't used PE parts from ET Model for wheels, because it is easier just to glue part A36 from the kit(see picture). This way you save time and nerves



Some close up's of the wheels




When working with PE I use instant glue(gel version) for bigger part(sand of excess of the glue). For very small parts like "tie down parts" first apply little amount of instant glue on one or two spots just enough that PE part holds to model. Then to the rest of PE part I apply Gator's Grip glue that you can dilute with water for easier applying(with very small brush). After glue has dried up you can repeat process few more times just to be safe.

Wakemeup
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Napoli, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2006
KitMaker: 880 posts
Armorama: 874 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2013 - 07:02 AM UTC
Hi Marko,thank you for the close up of the wheel!I can see that they have the tyre inflation piping ,right?You've done a great job with PE,no doubts on this!
I would know your opinion about the anti-slip coat.As far I know it seems to be correct,sometimes,on some models,it seems to be a bit overdone...but I don't know if it's the effect of wheatering or is it the real rough coat over the model.
Have you thought to correct it?!or is it just fine!?
Cheers!
Ciro

bat-213
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Canada
Joined: December 30, 2011
KitMaker: 902 posts
Armorama: 788 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 09, 2013 - 01:31 PM UTC
great looing build,cant wait to see it finished.
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Monday, February 11, 2013 - 05:58 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Marko,thank you for the close up of the wheel!I can see that they have the tyre inflation piping ,right?You've done a great job with PE,no doubts on this!
I would know your opinion about the anti-slip coat.As far I know it seems to be correct,sometimes,on some models,it seems to be a bit overdone...but I don't know if it's the effect of wheatering or is it the real rough coat over the model.
Have you thought to correct it?!or is it just fine!?
Cheers!
Ciro




Ciro, anti-slip is OK and I wouldn't change it(different type that one that you see on Abrams or Stryker). Yes the ET wheels have tyre inflation piping.

Wakemeup
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Napoli, Italy
Joined: September 02, 2006
KitMaker: 880 posts
Armorama: 874 posts
Posted: Monday, February 11, 2013 - 07:07 AM UTC
Hi Marko,thank you!
Will you use skp lights!?I hope to see your update soon!I'll start mine in this week.
Cheers
Ciro
Boris1991
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
Joined: October 13, 2009
KitMaker: 307 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Posted: Monday, February 11, 2013 - 08:44 AM UTC
Looking REALLY good Marko!
Love the extras you put on it! the IED sensor and antennas make a very nice looking model!
Can wait to see you paint and weather it!
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 24, 2013 - 05:15 AM UTC
Just quick question. Painting is done(vallejo acrylic), now it's time for MIG filter. Can I apply it direct on the color or it's better to first airbrush a layer of satin varnish
ProfessorP
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Minnesota, United States
Joined: February 20, 2007
KitMaker: 339 posts
Armorama: 325 posts
Posted: Monday, March 25, 2013 - 03:09 PM UTC
WOW, that's a lot of brass! Really impressive build Marko.

For the filters, you will find the enamels easier to control if you apply over a satin finish. However, I would recommend you mix your own satin finish 50:50 from Vallejo gloss and matte since I and others seem to have had very mixed results using Vallejo satin right out of the bottle.

For myself, I have tried two different bottles of Vallejo satin from two different hobby shops and with different lot numbers. One I applied thinned with distilled water, the other straight from the bottle. Both airbrushed fine but dried with a milky white finish. After letting it dry thoroughly, an application of Future was applied which fixed the milky finish. Then I applied the 50:50 mix with no problems. The enamels work very will over a satin finish.

Looking forward to seeing your results.
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 26, 2013 - 08:41 AM UTC
Don, thanks for the info. Will try first satin from Vallejo diluted with distilled water on a test model to see the results. If it doesn't works good then I'll mix gloss and matte.

AirCav79
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European Union
Joined: March 24, 2013
KitMaker: 16 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 - 12:03 AM UTC
Nice job an a good inspiration
supersxvmoto
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Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: November 05, 2011
KitMaker: 160 posts
Armorama: 153 posts
Posted: Friday, June 21, 2013 - 08:36 PM UTC
Hi guys! It's been a while from my last post but I finished the model like a month ago, so here are the pictures. Feel free to comment and thanks for watching




















terminators
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France
Joined: February 20, 2012
KitMaker: 1,932 posts
Armorama: 1,907 posts
Posted: Friday, June 21, 2013 - 10:20 PM UTC
Very nice !

Rear antennas are very great on this vehicle.

In your opinion is it necessary to paint the other side of the alert sign if we make folds ?

I believe the real panel is made in sheet steel so it is grey not white like the 1:35 reproductions. Isn't it ?
PanzerKarl
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: April 20, 2004
KitMaker: 2,439 posts
Armorama: 1,980 posts
Posted: Friday, June 21, 2013 - 10:26 PM UTC
Beautiful
parrot
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 22, 2013 - 03:37 AM UTC
Superb work Marko,
The painting is totally exellent.Great wiring.My hat's off to you for the PE work.I would never have the patience to do all that.

Tom
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