2012 was not a good modeling year for me, I started a lot and finished zero. This year can only be better

While I was pawing through the contents of this kit for the review (click here) I knew this was one that I'd really like to see get completed...so here goes.



The first 3 steps work on the driver's area and getting the lower hull together. There are some ejector marks on the hull bottom, and although I doubt much will be seen I filled them in anyway. The front plate has triangular slots/tabs, so make sure this is positioned correctly. For me this meant sliding it up all the way.



The driveshaft (J6) is a snug friction fit, so best to keep it unglued to help position everything later on when installing it to the lower hull.



One nice thing about Bronco kits is with all the separate parts you can customize how you want to set them up. Be careful here since the levers can be placed upside down if you're not paying attention



With everything all set it's time to assemble the lower hull. I added one side, the firewall and rear plate first. Dry fit the drive assembly to make sure the other hull side will fit properly...mine needed a bit of sanding on the brakes(?).





While I was waiting for the hull to dry I figured I'd start on adding the rivets to the wheels that I had mentioned in the review. Using the Nutter from The Small Shop (I love this tool!) I went about punching out the 0.25mm rivets, 18 per wheel. I believe there are also 4 larger rivets, but I need to find a better picture to see if I'll add those. Since I'm only partially anal, I'm only doing the outer wheels. Yeah, these things are small.





More to come later...

wow, James, these rivets suck.... it was smart to fill the ejector marks on the floor as those that are in the radio man area would be seen from the top of the model.

You don't like my rivets Roman? Yeah, the four pin marks behind the firewall didn't need to be filled, but you're right about the radio operators area.

I can see this is going to be a promising build james. I don't think I would have the patience to add all those rivets.

You can never go wrong with an open topped vehicle. And you are off to a great start. This is actually one of my favorite Marders so I'm going to sit back and enjoy.

I've been watching this kit with interest and am glad to see a build. This way I'll be warned about any surprises. The tracks may be a deal-breaker so I'll be interested in your blood pressure level as you tackle those. Question about the rivets; what guidance is there to their location on the rims?
Thanks,
Jon

Will be watching for sure.

Thanks guys. Darren, thanks again for the opportunity to build this kit! The rivets actually go on pretty easy...I just need to remember to breathe as I tend to hold my breath while moving them in position




Jon, a quick build of 10 links and I found these tracks non-stressful. We'll see how they go later in the build. There is a slight seam on the pin end, otherwise they are very clean.

The rivets line up with the ones on the face of the rim, every other one and staggered.

You are off to a very good start. It looks like the interior fits nicely with the hull sides in place. I keep looking at this kit and thinking how much trouble I would be in if I got it.

no, of course I like them. Sorry for confusion. I meant that adding these rivets sucks, the process.

In trouble with the wife, Russ?

That's good to hear Roman, it's depressing when my modeling sucks

A little more progress last night getting the suspension done.



Each wheel station is made up of 5 parts. Cut off a piece of the mounting lugs at least 3.1mm so they don't bottom out and stick out too far...I cut mine a bit more.The instructions don't show it too clearly, but part B39 needs to slide under B36, something you'll find out with the first one you do



The swingarms on stations 2 & 3 can easily be made positionable by removing the small tab, stations 1 & 4 for need a little more surgery to move them. I left all mine on a level plane. 3 small washers/nuts are added to the final drive housing and this step is complete for now (I'll leave the idler mount off until the tracks are done)







Step 8 adds a couple of small details to the transmission, so these were added since it's time to paint the driver's area before closing it up. Next up is the rear

Those rivets are ...metal? 0.25mm. Hm, what do you use to pick them up with? I have a feeling my cheap tweezers wouldn't handle that; if plastic I'd use a knife point.

4/0 or smaller round point paintbrush Matthew. I use a 50/50 mix of water and Future for adhesive and to help slide them around, and then the same solution to further stick them in place. Primer coat of paint goes on as soon as possible to make sure they stay there, in this case when I painted the driver's area.

James - Impressive work, now stop talking about it, and get it done....

James I can see this one has you by the throat I cannot remember you ever building this quickly. 1 question in the second picture of the suspension update the log is supposed to locate in the groove correct?
I ask as the picture does not show that and I thought i might be missing something.

Kev...I actually am making a bit of progress!

Having some time off helps Darren, but this one does have my attention...great kit so far.

Yeah, I realized after I posted that pic that I wasn't clear that I was showing an "in process" shot...it needs to be turned a bit more and pushed in.

The detail on this kit has my head spinning Epic, my friend, just epic. I'll stick to my Tamiya Marder for now thank you very much

-Conor