I am a returning modeler and I have a couple of questions

When decaling AFVs do I need to use a gloss coat before decals? I have used Future in the past and had mixed results.

Also when applying decals what setting solutioin do you use and how do you use it? There are so many solutions how do you chose the right one?

Before I start weathering do I need to use a clear coat? I primarly use Tamiya paint, so if I need to use a clear coat what is recomended.

These forums have been so helpful and I have learned so much in a short ammount of time. I am looking forward to posting pics of the project that I am working on when it is done. Thank you guys for all of your help!

Hi Mark,

Personally, I use Future exclusively. I apply the Future with my airbrush, giving the entire model about 3 thin coats of it until I get a nice clean, gloss covering. Then I apply decals.

I use solvaset.
http://www.houseofhobbies.com/sodeseso.html
After I apply the decal, I let it dry for an hour. THen I apply some solvaset. Not much, maybe two drops and spread it around the decal. I let that dry for a day. Then, I coat the decals one more time with one coat of Future to seal them. Then it's on to washes.

There are different gloss coat out there. Testors Acryl Clear coat gloss for one. Also some that are lacquer based. I've tried all types and found Future works best for me.

When the wash dries (i use oil paints) I give the model a coat of ModelMaster Acryl Flat clear, thinned to 50/50 ratio with alcohol and add 1 drop of Tamiya FLat Base. This will give the model a dead flat finish.

Then I weather the model with pastels, or pigments. Others use oil paints. It's best to experiment.

HTH,
Steve

Yes,you needs gloss coat to prevent what is called silvering,but you don't need to use Future,I couldn't get the hang of it,so I use Vallejo gloss and flat

You don't always need a setting solution,but if the decal need to set in like in panel lines,bolt,or Zimm,then you would need it.I use micro set blue bottle,and micro sol red bottle,the sol is stronger and really works well for setting down over raised details.

You just need to make sure that your weathering agents are the opposite of your paint finish.Paint in acrylics,then enamels and oils are safe,paint in enamels and weather in acrylics.

Hope this helps

i agree with anthony i use vallejo clear as well straight out of the botte with my airbrush and depending on how tight i need the decals is when i will use micro sol or walthers solvaset and i have even had a time or two when i had to use an extremly small swipe of liquid cemet to set decals then i use vallejo flat in the same way as the clear also i only gloss the areas that will get decals and not the whole model hope this helps

I have used Future and lacquer clear gloss. I find that lacquer works better. As for the decal solution, I use Walther's Solvaset. However, I have found that a very week mixture of white glue and water works quite well. I found this out, while trying to remove silvering from some Academy decals. You can thin regular glue at about 10:1 water:glue or use clear parts cement. Apply the decal, blot up some of the water and apply the glue along the edges.

I prefer to air brush Pledge on a matt paint finish. Usually one mist coat followed by two heavier coats will provide a smooth enough surface for decaling. The gloss coat fills in the "valleys" that are present in a Matt paint.

Decal application should be soaked in water till they're loose from the paper backing.

Coat the area of the model with water. Slide the decal on to the model and position it. Pat is down with a Qtip. If the decal doesn't settle down into the nooks and crannies, then an application of a Setting solution is needed.

the Microscale system is the most widely used system. The Blue bottle is Set and should be used 1st. Just a little spread on top of the decal, and let it do it's thing. If the decal hasn't conformed after two applications, then I move onto the Micro Sol (Red bottle), which is the same exact formula, only more concentrated. Apply the same way on just the decal, and let it dry and do it's thing. Some times 2 or 3 applications are necessary.

If the decals are on the thick side, and or just won't conform to the surface, then I use Solvoset, which is even stronger. Same procedure of just a little spread on the decal, let it dry and don't touch the decal. When it comes to using Solvoset, you should test a decal you're not using on the model to make sure it doesn't fall apart as Solvoset is very hot, and came damage some decals.

Wrinkling is normal during drying for all the decal setting solutions.

In some instances, I've had to poke a few holes in the decal to conform to hinges, etc, or cut out a small section and hand paint to match the decals color. Remember that a decal can only stretch and conform so much.

Once the decals have completely dried for a min of 24 hours, I re-coat with Pledge to seal the decals and blend in the edges so that they look painted on. A few coats of Pledge is normally needed. Now you can start the weathering process.

Since Future is a acrylic based product, you can weather with enamels safely. I would stay away from anything that is lacquer based as it will eat right through the acrylic finish and attack your paint.

Joel