Greetings to the community.

According to Mac this vehicle is designated as Kfz 17. I have found out that the same designation is used for the Horsch radio configuration too.

I am puzzled by the absence of any type of antenna for this vehicle. Anyone has a clue where it would be placed?

A pic from the start.



P.A.

Ola Alexander.

Depending on the radiosetup inside that body it either had a Kurbelmast mounted at the back (for some reason always left of the backdoor). This is the type of mast that can be elevated. If the doors of the body extend all the way to the bodies sides then the kurbelmast location moves around the corner to the leftside.
It could have a bedframe antenna mounted on the roof which was also often seen
It could have a smaller antenna set up mounted at the side of the roof. Mostly at tge left side. (an example can be seen in the kubelwagen walkaround I send in a while ago. Black mount without the antenna.)

It could also be carrying pipes that slot together to make an antenna which would be set up in the grass just a bit away from the vehicle. Tied with wires to prevent it from falling over.

Hello Alexander

First I have to say I am not an expert on this topic. And nice choice of subject for a build.

Here is information I have, given in good faith. Any "experten" on the subject please correct if needed.

Kfz 17 was the designation for radio, telephone & survey vehicles, regardless of manufaturer: Horch, Steyr, etc (source Samochody Wehrmachtu Vol IV).

Numerous pictures exist of early model Kfz 17 (Horch) had the "bedframe" antenna, similar to what was used on other wehrmacht vehicles.

I have found one picture of a (Steyr) Kfz 17 with a bedframe antenna, (below) and others with no visible antenna. (last picture)



I surmise there are two other options - either a telescoping antenna, (sometimes attached to the rear of some radio vehicles) or a small antenna mount mounted on the side for a 1.4 metre antenna. Below is a Horch Kfz 17 with one simple aerial mount.



Given there are photos of Steyr 1500 Kfz 17 radio trucks with no visible antenna you are probably safe to model without an antenna.

. The below picture is identified as a Kfz 17.

If you want some kind of antenna, suggest you make one of the 1.4 metre variety(from base of stretched sprue) or obtain a small mount from your spares box. I can spare a telescoping type antenna from a ZV Models Einheitswagen radio vehicle if you want it. (see below for telescoping antenna)



You could try scratchbuilding a bedframe antenna, as per the photo, I know you have the skills, though sadly the entire details of this antenna are not visible so impossible to replicate it exactly, so if you have one in the spares box from another vehicle, its another possibility.

Or if you make it a 'Telephone Car' it does not need an antenna, it had a strip on the rear for a cable to plug into to operate a telephone exchange for up to 20 lines (for use in a Command Post/Headquarters type of situation).

Sites for further information:

http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/forums/showthread.php?t=625512

http://www.kfzderwehrmacht.de/Homepage_english/Motor_Vehicles/Austria/Steyr/Steyr_270/steyr_270.html

edit - I started writing this post before the previous post by Robert appeared, seems we are more or less on the same track)

cheers
Neil

Alexander,

Interesting and unusual subject that you've picked. I just want to wade in here and basically concur with what Robert (Faust) and Neil (Korpse) have so eloquently explained. From researching information about radio vehicles for my builds, I'd like to add that it seems that antennas fall into four categories. FWIW, the 1.4m and 2.0m rigid pole antennas were used for short to medium range communications, the frame antenna for long range and mast antenna for extreme range and/or ground to air communication.

Cheers,
Jan

Guys thanks for the information that you provided, it really cleared everything out.

Neil thanks for your offer but I will not model an extendable antenna.

I was looking for a quick build at this one so the fact that I can either leave it as it is, or add a small antenna on the side is good news.

Furthermore as this kit is simply very badly constructed makes me want to fisnish it as soon as possible and move on.

Right now, I am struggling with the basics : to make the pieces fit properly.

P.A.

Hi Alexander

glad you have cleared your queries about the vehicle, its not good building a kit with the nagging feeling that something isn't quite right, particularly as you know most problems are much harder to fix after the construction has started.

These Steyr 1500s have a reputation for being a bit of a challenge, still I think you have more than enough experience to overcome any fit issues as they aise

cheers
Neil

Hi guys,

It has been quite some time since my last post for this build but you must understand that it was difficult to motivate myself to invest time on it.

Neil mentioned this kit to be a challenger. That is true although in the bad way.

Unfortunately, there are no location pins on the kit's parts, meaning that fit is by trial and error.In addition to this, the instructions are vague and in some parts completely misleading and some long parts like the chassis are distorted. Fitting is quite bad too.

All the above mean that I did not know if the model would stand correctly on the bench until I had fully built it.

I chose not to paint the interior and covered the cabin windows with curtains made of aluminum foil.

I used road wheels of an Roden Opel Blitz and an Airfix Opel Blitz because the kit's wheel were very low on detail. I added a second wheel on the back axle which I don't know if it's histrically correct.

I added frames on the windows, rebuild the spare canister holder, drilled the headlights (I'll install lenses later), made the radio wire ports out of spare PE frets, made the door grab handle and the cabin steps out of steel wires, and built the front bumper grill (not installed in the photo).

I certainly did not have fun building this kit since I struggled just to put it together, however the outcome is not bad. I am certainly looking forward to finishing it.
I am at this point.




T.B.C.
P.A.

Just a quick update on how to make headlights.

I use a jewelers tool and a piece of very thin aluminum sheet on a cutting surface.



Just by pressing through the sheet you cut the headlight and with a sharp point you pop it out of the elastic surface.



Place it on the model using gloss varnish to glue it in place.
Add 2 part epoxy glue to simulate the glass and that's it.



It's so easy that I dont even bother to try to find a lens in case I drop it, instead I make another right away.

Happy modeling, P.A.

Looking really good Alexander and your method to make the headlights is something to give a try.

Regards,
AJ

Finished model :







P.A.

Hey Alexander,

Nice to see this one done, it's looking really good and it makes an interesting and definitely different subject. I particularly like the effect of the mud/grime on the lower body areas. Your headlights also look like a winner! Those things (rods?) on at the very back on the drivers side must be lengths of an antenna similar to ones I've seen in pictures of the Sd. Kfz. 261 and other radio trucks. From what I've read and FWIW, these antenna lengths that were used usually came from the factory in a black-grey colour but were often painted the overall vehicle colour. The main thing is that they got pretty chipped up no matter what colour they were due to assembling and disassembling them and they'd show quite a few areas as bare metal. Might add a bit of interest?

Cheers,
Jan

Jan,

Thank for taking the time to comment.
Good idea about the antenna rods, I'll apply some chips.

P.A.

Hi Alexander,

Good work on what looks like a difficult kit. I have taken on board what you have said about the build problems and have held off buying one of these until someone produces a really good one (may be a long wait). I have a set of wheels from Tracks & Troops for the vehicle and they are fabulous, I have them for the MAC version and it should be a big improvement. I like your method for making lenses, do you know what the tool is called, we have a Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham, UK, which is 20 minutes away and they have several jeweller's tool suppliers there (as you would expect). I was looking at a very fine pair of flat pliers for photo-etch bending but they cost £36! Well done with the model, excellent job in the end.

All the best,

Paul

Hi Paul,

I think that they are called beading tool or grainers.

They come in various sizes I have the full set from tiny ones to make rivets, to medium to make drivers rear view mirrors up to large ones to make vehicle headlights.

Some examples:


Rivets


Mirrors


Headlights



It is very important to find an extra soft and thin aluminum sheet to simulate glass, it's perfect for our scale.

I picked up my sheet in a small industry that produced brass and aluminum sheets as well as vases or plates from pressed sheets. Not the kind of store that you find often.

You can find a detailed article about this method and the tools needed in Tony's Greenland book ''Panzer Modeling'' page 27-28. PM if you need more info about it.

About the 36 pounds tweezers, it's a matter of personal taste, personally my best tweezers are worth 4 Euros and do the job.

P.A.

Hi Alexamder,

I hasten to add that I didn't buy the tweezers. Thanks for the information, I have seen these in the Jewellery Quarter, I shall see how much they cost on my next visit.

All the best,

Paul

Thanks very much Alexander. Very nice model and excellent technique with the lights.

Best regards.

Paul, Pedro, you're welcome.

P.A.