AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
badger airbrush problem
Posted: Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 11:15 AM UTC
ive got a problem with my badger 200G airbrush, what happens is the paint seems to struggle to come out no matter how much its thinned(even water does) and ive got tiny bubbles coming from the back of the cup.the head is fully cleaned,so i don,t think its blowback but would a new head help?
HastyP
Ontario, Canada
Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,117 posts
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Joined: April 23, 2003
KitMaker: 1,117 posts
Armorama: 468 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 12:45 PM UTC
Is everything tight? I know on my aztek if the nozzle or paint cups are not tight and air can get in bubbles will come up in the paint and I don't get much of a spray. I know mine is not a badger but I would assume this problem would happen to yours as well.
HastyP
HastyP
Posted: Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 07:03 PM UTC
Hi there
I've also found that bubbles are a sign that the nozzle etc need tightening.
All the best
Rowan
I've also found that bubbles are a sign that the nozzle etc need tightening.
All the best
Rowan
RotorHead67
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 1,174 posts
Armorama: 772 posts
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 1,174 posts
Armorama: 772 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 16, 2003 - 09:03 PM UTC
ALMONKEY,
YOU are getting air past the needle going backwards, not twds the tip.
FAULT= the needle bushing the thing that looks like a piece of tubing. part # 50-046 is not keeping a tight seal on the needle. It is located right behind the entrance of the paint cup tube , where it enters the body of the airbrush. Disassemble the airbrush,remove the needle, split the body blue/silver parts and then use a piece of plastic rod the same DIA as the needle tube to push the bushing out .....in the direction of the tip ie: FWD.
Reinstall new part and make sure brush is clean and this should cure the problem. HOPE it helps. Todd
YOU are getting air past the needle going backwards, not twds the tip.
FAULT= the needle bushing the thing that looks like a piece of tubing. part # 50-046 is not keeping a tight seal on the needle. It is located right behind the entrance of the paint cup tube , where it enters the body of the airbrush. Disassemble the airbrush,remove the needle, split the body blue/silver parts and then use a piece of plastic rod the same DIA as the needle tube to push the bushing out .....in the direction of the tip ie: FWD.
Reinstall new part and make sure brush is clean and this should cure the problem. HOPE it helps. Todd
Posted: Monday, November 17, 2003 - 10:24 AM UTC
thanks guys,i keep everything tightened up,because with this type you don,t have to take it apart to clean it , just blow turps through the cup to swill it through,so its a touch easier to use than my aztec 470.looking at the handbook,though isnt this the part badger say is ....oh here it is in the handbook, " if the needle bearing(50-046)wears down or falls out there is a lifetime warranty on this part because the owner cannot replace this himself" can you get hold of this part even though they say this? on my last badger a/b i pushed it out accidently and used a piece of electric wire insulation, pushed the wire out to get a bush and shoved it in,instead of the bearing,it worked ok for a while but eventually packed up leading me to buy this a/b i did this thinking you couldnt get the real part because of the reason above
ukgeoff
England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: May 03, 2002
KitMaker: 1,007 posts
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Joined: May 03, 2002
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Posted: Monday, November 17, 2003 - 10:45 AM UTC
Quoted Text
i keep everything tightened up,because with this type you don,t have to take it apart to clean it , just blow turps through the cup to swill it through
That could also be the problem. Simply flushing with solvent may not be enough to remove all the paint residue. With my Badger 200, I've always removed the head and used the twisted corner of a kitchen towel to clean any remaining vestage of paint at the end of a session.
RotorHead67
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 1,174 posts
Armorama: 772 posts
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 1,174 posts
Armorama: 772 posts
Posted: Monday, November 17, 2003 - 09:07 PM UTC
AL MONKEY,
I have personally baught this part 3 x and I always keep a spare, because w/ use it does wear. ( level of ware directly in relation to level of clenliness).
I always flush spirits thru my brush during a paint session when finished, but about every dozen times I do a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning w/ a HOT thinner ie: Xlene, or Laquer base. Using pipe cleaners and tissue.
Following these practices very seldom do I experiance your problem. OF COURSE not until after I learned the issue and remedy. NOW I brush @ 8-10 psi w/ no bad results.
PS 1 side note: I have literally destroyed an BADER 200 during dissassembly, and was told that I couldn't fix it.. GUESS what? Im using the same airbrush today. Having bought 3 parts from BADGER, and raiding my shop tools to rebuild this exact airbrush.
HAVE FAITH nothing is beyond you if your mind is behind you. Todd
I have personally baught this part 3 x and I always keep a spare, because w/ use it does wear. ( level of ware directly in relation to level of clenliness).
I always flush spirits thru my brush during a paint session when finished, but about every dozen times I do a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning w/ a HOT thinner ie: Xlene, or Laquer base. Using pipe cleaners and tissue.
Following these practices very seldom do I experiance your problem. OF COURSE not until after I learned the issue and remedy. NOW I brush @ 8-10 psi w/ no bad results.
PS 1 side note: I have literally destroyed an BADER 200 during dissassembly, and was told that I couldn't fix it.. GUESS what? Im using the same airbrush today. Having bought 3 parts from BADGER, and raiding my shop tools to rebuild this exact airbrush.
HAVE FAITH nothing is beyond you if your mind is behind you. Todd
Grifter
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 17, 2002
KitMaker: 608 posts
Armorama: 425 posts
Joined: November 17, 2002
KitMaker: 608 posts
Armorama: 425 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 - 12:08 AM UTC
Sounds to me like a clog in the air passage. I had this prob. w/ my 360 recently. On the advice of my local model club I soaked the head/nozzle/needle in laquer thinner and was amazed at the amount of paint that was in there! AFter soaking I scraped and wiped with toothpicks and paper towels to remove the rest. Now it sprays great.
Posted: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 - 05:52 AM UTC
Another good tool for cleaning airbrushes is a dental "micro brush". They're far finer than a pipe cleaner and get right into the tip without damaging it.
All the best
Rowan
All the best
Rowan
Posted: Friday, November 21, 2003 - 10:41 AM UTC
bearing in mind what roterhead said i took the thing to peices, soaked it for 24 huors in a mix of xylene based liquid poly and turps, this got a lot of cak out and the brush seems to work fine now. i,ll accept a slapped wrist for letting it get in a state and promise to keep it clean from now on. thanks for the help guys
:-)
:-)
RotorHead67
Virginia, United States
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 1,174 posts
Armorama: 772 posts
Joined: May 07, 2003
KitMaker: 1,174 posts
Armorama: 772 posts
Posted: Friday, November 21, 2003 - 09:50 PM UTC
Al Monkey,
SEE I know everyone jumped on the perverbial BAND wagon...............But I was
possative that this was your problem. CAUSE I BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!!! COULDA
HAD A V8 .........kinds thingy....... GLAD your back to sprayin plastic.
SEE I know everyone jumped on the perverbial BAND wagon...............But I was
possative that this was your problem. CAUSE I BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!!! COULDA
HAD A V8 .........kinds thingy....... GLAD your back to sprayin plastic.