As promised the next installment, though only small and one week later than planned due to real life issues... Though I must say, of course, three Jeeps at the same time take three times as long as one...


Let’s go back to the body:




As you can see, TAM and BRO have very similar ways of dealing with this. In both cases the front grille is part of the body and the wall behind the engine is a separate part. Other than that, all three manufacturers have similar layouts. A special feature of BRO is the open stowage bins in the back and the inclusion of the gas tank in this part. Detail wise, BRO is clearly the most detailed. In my opinion DML is the least detailed, especially when it comes to the bottom.

Here are all the parts mounted under the floor. Compare the gas tanks. Here again, DML is the least detailed.





Now for the parts mounted on the back engine wall. As mentioned, DML has this part molded into the body part. There is only one part to be added there, and it goes reight, whereas the same part on the other kits goes left. Go figure… DML is missing the horn. BRO has a nicely hollowed out part, while TAM’s needs to be drilled out (if you want to display the engine).



Now for the radiator. All have in common that they include the headlights. TAM is one part, while the others are two. DML has both the headlights and the convoy lights as clear parts. Unfortunately, the headlights are not hollow.



Now for the crew compartment sans seats and dashboard:



As you can see, BRO has the most parts, TAM has the last. Notable absentees with TAM are the pedals, while DML does not have the fire extinguisher (?). BRO has the crispest detail and two choices of steering wheel. A nice feature is the texture on the underside of the wheel to get a better grip for the hands.

Once all these parts are mounted, you get the following:



(note the steering wheel is not yet mounted, as it attaches to the dashboard)


(little glue smear there on the gas tank, but fortunately this will be covered by the driver’s seat… )

So, that’s it for now. Next will be dashboard, seats, back wall.

On a side note: Shake ‘n’ Bake really seems to work with TAM: I more or less dropped the body on the chassis and it landed exactly the way it has to…

Thanks for watching!

Cheers!
Stefan

So, time for an update.

First one, the dashboard: Basically all three have the same setup, with DML having the handle separate and the others having it molded on. The BRO has some extra tie downs.


The back plate of the body is similar with all, of course a major difference is that BRO has the name Ford imprinted.


Inside, TAM and BRO are similarly detailed, whereas DML is completely bare of any detail.


I had a little trouble fitting the BRO part, as it seemed to be a fraction of a millimeter too wide. Since I didn’t want to sand off the detail on the back plate I sanded down a bit on the other side on the body.

Seats:


TAM has clearly the easiest to build seats, again, they just fall together. I also like the folded canvas under the seat. Of the three, I think the seat cushion detail is the best. DML is the most fiddly and the ribs on the back rest are too large in diameter when compared to the real thing (maybe someone can find photos of a different kind of seat?). BRO has the most fiddly attachment points to the body, but I haven’t yet glued it on, so I can’t say how it works out.

Here are the pics with the seats dry fitted:




Here’s a little added detail of BRO, the accelerator and break:


Now on to the canvas frame:


TAM and BRO basically have the same layout and include the straps in the plastic part. DML has a more complicated setup and separate PE straps. All three work well, though personally I prefer the TAM and BRO approach as it is much simpler.

Here’s all three fixed to the body:




Last part for today, the Jerry cans.




As you can see, all three have a somewhat different approach. DML and TAM have the same basic breakdown of the parts, but DML is more detailed (lid) and has a separate rack from PE. BRO includes the rack but has a different breakdown. Next time we’ll see how they build.

Any comments, additional info welcome as always!

Cheers!
Stefan

Time for another update.

Back to the Jerry cans. One practical item I forgot to mention about DML is that the handle is connected to the sprue with three (!) attachment points, which makes cleanup unnecessarily complicated and of course I broke the part while cleaning it. Both Bronco and Tamiya were able to make one attachment at the base, so I don’t see that it should be so hard?

Keeping with the DML part, be sure to cut off the locating lugs on the main parts, because if you don’t the parts won’t line up and it will look like this:


The rack is made up of two parts. It’s not that easy to fold and align them correctly, I just got them lined up as best I could and then put a load of Mr Surfacer on the edges as well as the folding creases around the round edges. After a quick pass with the file the part looks quite nice. Overall, I think it’s worth the effort, as then no all Jeeps in the modeling world will have the Jerry can facing the same direction. The strap from PE leaves too much slack if folded as intended, it will then look like this:


I replaced the strap with tape and added the buckle from the PE strap. This is the result:


No issues were encountered with the other manufacturers, except for the attachment of the Bronco Jerry can to the Jeep. There seems to be no attachment point which would add any strength to the assembly. Either it was forgotten or not indicated in the instructions. I decided to add a little shim from plastic leftovers:


Spare wheel; no special remarks here, all three are basically made up the same way. DML will require some filler to get a clean tire.


Now to the final touches of the engine compartment:
Tamiya’s is certainly the simplest one. All parts not directly part of the engine are included in one part. Bronco has a somewhat similar approach with the battery and one more part separate. However, the molding is so delicate that the part broke. A nice touch of Bronco is to include the attachments for the headlights from PE. These are easily bent to shape. DML has all the parts separately, which makes attachment of the filter a bit unclear.


Windshield!
Tamiya and Bronco have the full windshield, while DML and Bronco have the canvas covered windshield. Clearly one big plus point for Bronco here. Another plus point goes to Bronco for the detail.

Here’s Tamiya’s parts layout for the full windshield:


And Bronco’s:


As you can see, Tamiya’s is clearly easier to build and paint, with the glass parts separate. Bronco on the other side has finer wipers but require you to mask the glass as it’s included in the inner frame. Bronco also has the option of modeling the Glass and inner frame open. Some nice PE parts complete the windshield and the attachments include very fine wing nuts.

The M1 Rifle racks are both very fine items, however, Bronco’s has slightly finer detail.


Here are the parts assembled:


On to the canvas covered parts:

(sorry for the crooked logos, don’t know what happened there…)

DML has an amazing one piece molding while Bronco has a separate back. Bronco again has the wing nuts to add. What I don’t like on both parts is the missing details on the lower opening of the canvas, but I imagine this would be hard to replicate other than taking an actual windshield and adding a canvas from lead foil, tissue paper or similar?

Last part for today is the hood.


As you can see, Tamiya’s part is the simplest and least detailed one. Bronco has some really pesky little PE parts here and I can understand that some people call Bronco’s kits over engineered… DML’s PE is a bit simpler with what are several parts for Bronco included into one. I have not yet attached any of these but I must admit, I am not looking forward to it…

A note on dimensions:


As you can see, DML and Tamiya have almost exactly the same width, while Bronco is small enough to fit exactly in between. On the other hand, Bronco and Tamiya are the same length while DML is about 1mm longer. Maybe someone can provide me with the dimensions of an actual Jeep hood so I can take some measurements and see which one is most accurate.

That’s all for now. Mainly tools left and then on to armament and other more specific details.

Cheers!
Stefan

Stefan this is another fine instalment and I am enjoying watching your progression. On the subject of the bonnet I note the profile is different is it possible it has been distorted and with the same profile it looks as if it would be the same size.

Very nice comparisons. I appreciate it a lot, as I'm currently trying to determine what Jeep kit to get next.

Great job. Keep the comparison coming.

A note on the fuel can for the Bronco kit. The early script jeeps (Ford and Willys) did not come with fuel cans. The fuel can is not intended to be mounted if you want to have an early script GPW, hence the FORD on the rear plate and no mounting pins. The fuel can was added later in the field and it went right over where the Ford script is, so you can add it for a later jeep.

This is a great review ..greatly appreciated! It's interesting to see what are the highs and lows of each brand.

Darren, thanks, glad you like it. Thanks for the heads up. I just checked the hood of the Bronco Jeep. It fits exactly, so there's no warpage in the part. Also, the effect seems magnified in the close up photo. It could also be that the part is sllightly pressed together by the sandwich.

Kevin, glad I could help. If I was to make a preliminiary ranking of the three, now that I'm 90% through the builds, I would rate Bronco 1st for details and Tamiya 1st for buildability. It all really depends whether you want a really detailed Jeep out of the box - then Bronco it is - or an accurate but easy to build one - then go for Tamiya. It you want the most options reg. armament etc. then go for Bronco. That all of course if you don't really care whether it's a Willys or Ford. DML I would only recommend if you want that particular armored version and don't care to scratch build.

Gino, thanks for the info. Bronco do not say anything about this in the instructions or mention the option of an early version. For a field mod I should think that if that was their intention they would add some part for attachment? Seems to be an engineering/instructions blooper.

Greg, thanks for looking in.

Cheers!
Stefan

CORRECTION: Bronco DO indicate that the Jerry can is an option and a field mod. Sorry for that. That said, it still doesn't change the attachment issue.

Just had another hour bench time and got all the small bits and tools ready for photographing and attachment. But I probably won't have more time for a few days.

A note on the plastic. i've never noticed differences so far, but this is the first time I have three manufacturers on the bencha t the same time. Tamiya seems very brittle, with fine parts easily breaking. Bronco's on the other hand is very strong, so much that sometimes it's hard to clean up, but very sturdy.

A note on PE: DML often have the same part several times in case you lose one and often there is a plasic alternative. Both really nice touches.

Cheers!
Stefan

Hey Gang!

Basic builds are done!




(note that the components are just dry fitted, not glued on)

So what was left was mainly tools and some small parts. Here’s an overview of all the parts:



Here’s what the tools should look like:



Note the tools themselves, especially the shovels. Here Tamiya clearly has the lead with what I think is the most detailed shovel. On the downside, I think the tool attachment is one of the weakest points of the Tamiya kit. They are basically just floating there.



I detailed this with some wire, stretched sprue, tape and some Verlinden resin buckles. Here’s the result:



Here is what DML has to offer: One strap is molded with the shovel, the other is made of PE. I didn’t think the PE part would be snuggling to the contours enough, so I decided to use some tape and add the buckle from the PE part.



Bronco has the straps molded onto the body and tools, which looks good enough, but I of course solid on the back. The bracket for the shovel is a PE part, which is a nice touch. What I don’t like is the attachment for the ax which is made of a very fine PE part. I replaced this with wire.



A note on the bumper. Both Bronco and Tamiya have this as one piece with the correct hole in the lower center. DML have most of the bumper molded onto the chassis with the front central part separate with no further details. This makes it harder to get a nicely aligned bumper and makes some cleanup necessary. I do wonder what the advantage of this approach is.

Other details added here are the rear view mirror (my note on the brittleness of Tamiya plastic was again confirmed here, unfortunately…) and the camouflage lamp. The lamp has sink marks in both Tamiya and DML. Both DML and Bronco have a base and guard from PE.





That’s it for now and all for the comparisons. Now it’s all about the individual armor and armament. I will be building the DML armored Jeep of course, Tamiya will be a basic unarmed vehicle, and with Bronco I don’t know yet whether I should add the .50 cal or the .30 cal mounted in front of the co-driver’s seat. I will also be building the Bronco trailer for sure.

Thanks for looking in, stay tuned!
Cheers!
Stefan

Excellent. I appreciate your work.

Stefan, having followed this from the beginning, and possibly appearing unappreciative of your work, I really have to say, is what you've produced is an absolutely impressive epic..

So, what's your final view on the Price/Accuracy issue? There's a big part of me still feels that (despite some limitations) Tamiya did a really impressive job all these years ago. If it was purely on the basis of accuracy, it looks like Bronco. Bronco's Jeep seems a fair bit better than DML's promptin the question is DML's a MAJOR improvement over Tamiya's?

Kevin, thanks for looking in.

Jim, glad you changed your mind.

To answer your questions: Unless you really want the armored version and don't want to/can't scratch build the parts for it, you really should go with Tamiya or Bronco. The DML kit really doesn't offer any advantage over Tamiya that would justify the price difference, and in some cases Tamiya is more accurate and is definitely easier to build. Add to that, that you have more options in both Tamiya and Bronco (reg. armament and windshield), plus figures.

Now Tamiya and Bronco... It depends what you want and what you're willing to pay. Tamiya is still a great and cheap alternative and with a few scratch additions is still a very nice model. And of course a lot easier to build.

Bronco on the other hand is much more detailed from the box and offers lots of extras (3 different MG mounts, three windhiield options (open, close, covered)) and either a trailer or a 37mm gun plus some stowage.

Personally, I would buy Tamiya if I wanted a basic Jeep version with no additions, Bronco if I wanted any of the other options and I see no real reason to buy DML.

Cheers!
Stefan

Stefan, thanks for the reply.

I could be tempted to get the Bronco one, although i've still got a few (9 at last count) Tamiya ones in the stash Over the years i've done a lot with the Tamiya one - Airborne, MediVac and a late-war SAS jeep. It started off at around 17 so, gradually it's coming down,,,

I love the Tamiya version but I just might, thanks to your article, think of getting the Bronco one...

Great job so far, Stefan.
Just got the Dragon SAS Jeep on my hands and just can't wait to get my hands on Bronco's Jeep after seeing these pics..

Very informative. Thanks for a great article you've put a lot in to it.
Dave

Time for some armament!

Had little time due to RL lately, but nevertheless managed o get these three ready for paint, which means arming them.

As always, first the Tamiya. I decided to skip the .30 cal. from the kit as I’ve already got one of those in the cabinet as well as a basic Jeep. While rummaging through the spares box, I found a Skybow .50 cal M2 which I decided to add, together with the wire cutter. So here’s the final result before painting:




Now for DML. As mentioned in the review, the armored shield is not very accurate in that the frontal armor should be a seprate part overlapping the sides and there should be a rounded cutout. Also, the rifle rack was moved from the windshield to the interior of the armor on the driver’s side.

I cut apart the DML PE armor and used the front portion as a rough template for my own larger version from plastic card. Then I made some holes and added the attachments from stretched sprue. I had a spare rifle rack from a Tamiya Jeep I built a long time ago. For the bazooka mount, the attachments in the kit are made of flat PE parts. The real thing however, looks more round. I replaced them with wire. And here’s the result.







Bronco has lots of options when it comes to armament. There is a .50 cal mount and there are two different kinds of .30 cal mounts, one on the same mount as the .50 cal, the other mounted on the dashboard in front of the co-driver. I decided to use this mount as I don’t think it was ever available in a plastic kit.

The Bronco kit also has a trailer. This builds fairly straightforward and is very well detailed. It even includes instructions to ad the break and electric lines from stretched sprue.




So here are all three ready for painting with all the parts stuck on toothpicks for handling.





Next will be a coat of Tamiya XF-1 black as primer and pre shade. Then my usual mix of lightened Tamiya OD.

See you later!
Cheers!
Stefan

Keep up the great work! A very interesting article.
Dan

Thanks Dan!

Just to let you guys know I'm still at it... Had some time with the airbrush and got all 3 primed in black and OD'ed. Now I'll concentrate on two campaign builds but hope to pick these up again in June.





Cheers!
Stefan

It has been very interesting watching your progress Stefan and I look forward to the feature.

Great work Stefan! Personally, whilst I understand some of the concerns, this is exactly what I look for when deciding to buy one manufacturers kit over anothers (aside from the fact of which variant the kit is based).
Mike D.

This was an very impressive and useful show, build, and tell for these vehicles. Thanks for the build log, looking forward to the article if you decide to do one.

Stefan great job very informative.
After following your feature and Andy's review and build of Dragons armored Jeep I started on mine, immediately found out I've been spoiled by Tamiya's simplicity.
Again great job and thanks for the information.
Dave

In the fine tradition of Arthur "Two-Sheds" Jackson, we should now start referring to you as Stefan "Three-Jeeps" Halter.

Hi Stefan,

Excellent article, thanks for the comparisons, very useful.

Cheers

Al