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Armor/AFV: Techniques
From Weathering to making tent rolls, discuss it here.
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Creating bullet holes...
K-Tama
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United States
Joined: December 07, 2012
KitMaker: 33 posts
Armorama: 24 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 09:40 AM UTC
Hello,
Does anyone have any tips/techniques on how to , create , paint , and weather bulletholes on possibly a plane?? I know this isn't an airplane modelling site But I'm guessing that all bulletholes look the same... Any help?
SgtRam
Staff MemberContributing Writer
AEROSCALE
#197
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 06, 2011
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 09:49 AM UTC
Actually bullet holes look different on AFV's then they do on airplanes. And on AFV's bullet holes very based on the thickness of the armor/material and the size of the bullet.

For softskin vehicles, you can thin the plastic from the inside, and use a pin to push through leaving an indentation.

For armor it will depend on the contacting shell type, it could be a clean hole to broken steel.

Headhunter506
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New York, United States
Joined: December 01, 2007
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 11:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hello,
Does anyone have any tips/techniques on how to , create , paint , and weather bulletholes on possibly a plane?? I know this isn't an airplane modelling site But I'm guessing that all bulletholes look the same... Any help?



Take a look-see at these two sites:

HLJ MK-II Custom : Battle Damage / Weathering Tutorial

Bullet Holes
RustySteel
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Connecticut, United States
Joined: July 17, 2012
KitMaker: 50 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 02:29 PM UTC
Hi Kaimana, to make bullet holes I chuck a small pin in a hand vice and heat with a candle after it has heated I push it into the plastic at an angle for a glance shot or occasionally straight on. Taking care to not peirce I make it look as if the bullet has glanced and pushed the steel/metal away, for peirce shots I use the same technique but go through this time. HTH and good luck!
TotemWolf
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Oklahoma, United States
Joined: February 11, 2013
KitMaker: 294 posts
Armorama: 196 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 02:49 PM UTC
Remember the scale.

At 1/35 a .50 cal hole is less than 0.4mm, a 20mm is only 0.6, while a 37mm is about 1mm.
Even an 88 would only be just over 2.5mm.

TAFFY3
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New York, United States
Joined: January 21, 2008
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 03:18 PM UTC
If you have a Dremel Motor tool, carefully grind the inside of the part you want to 'damage', be careful not to grind through the part. When the plastic is thin enough punch a hole through with a pin for a 'bullet hole' or use an Xacto blade to create an angled bullet entry or you can tear and twist around the hole for heavier caliber damage. This only works on areas where you won't see the interior. Al
vahleof
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: December 17, 2010
KitMaker: 189 posts
Armorama: 125 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 - 04:34 PM UTC
I learnt from a forum that you could create a shell penetration hole by first drill a hole through the plate/hull, then with a toothpick, put on some putty and "force" it inside the hole, then carefully work on the "pushed out" putty around the hole to create shell penetration hole
If i can find the website again I'll post it
vahleof
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: December 17, 2010
KitMaker: 189 posts
Armorama: 125 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 02:07 AM UTC
Here is the link

http://tieba.baidu.com/f?kz=471807932

maybe you can use google translate to open it but images are pretty straight forward
joepanzer
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: January 21, 2004
KitMaker: 803 posts
Armorama: 740 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 02:19 AM UTC
Dunno, those look more like exit holes on the stowage box of that Tiger. The splayed metal would be on the inside.

Try shooting a tin can with a BB gun/air rifle and try to mimic that result on soft skins
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